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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

heimannm

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Bottom line of the coil & flywheel testing:

Points ignition (Mini Mac) uses "IGN" flywheel 91961/94513/94737,217673

Early brown & large white electronic ignition modules on the 300 Series saws use the same "IGN" flywheel as the Mini Mac models

Black SEM electronic ignitions use "CDI" flywheel 219211

Cream (or off white) electronic ignition modules require the use of 222778 flywheel, should be marked "F" but also has a 5 molded in, 222778 is 20 fins compared to 10 fins for the other two.

20251014_091312.jpg

The differences between the flywheels is the location/timing of the flywheel key.

20251014_081143.jpg

All of these flywheels have the narrow (1/16") keyway and wide pawls for use with the plastic starter pulleys. I think the different part numbers for the earliest flywheels correspond to the wide steel pawls on the first, then white or black plastic pawls on later versions.

It is now starting to sink in that when McCulloch went to the last versions of the electronic ignition modules they used the same coil & laminations in several applications, but changed the orientation of the laminations for some.

20251014_082500.jpg

In other instances, the laminations changed as is the case for the ignitions for the 600 and 10 Series saws.

DSC04991.JPG

While the chart (see my post 11,915 above) is helpful, it is not entirely accurate...I guess there's no surprise there for anyone that worked with McCulloch saws and documentation before. For the Mini Mac models, it is necessary to use the CDI flywheel with the SEM electronic ignition modules though the chart shows both points and electronic using the same 94737 flywheel, and they show the 100 Series (Mini Mac) and 300 Series using the 223707 (cream) coil but I found it necessary to add some washers as spacers to allow the coil to actually bolt in place on the 300 Series saws.

20251013_081347.jpg

In several circumstances the exact same coil and laminations were uses with different length spark plug leads, resulting in different part numbers. So far I have found these leads to be very easy to change by simply "unscrewing" one and replacing it with another appropriate length lead wire.

Mark
 
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lehman live edge slab

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Honest question, the 1-71 I just acquired has good compression, rolls over smooth and the tank is clean and shiny inside. Do i rebuild carb and fix rewind and attempt to run as is or strip saw down clean and put new seals in ect then build back up?
 

jacob j.

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Honest question, the 1-71 I just acquired has good compression, rolls over smooth and the tank is clean and shiny inside. Do i rebuild carb and fix rewind and attempt to run as is or strip saw down clean and put new seals in ect then build back up?

Does it have good spark? If it's been sitting then it would likely need a fuel system rebuild at minimum. If you can fix up a way to do a pressure and vac test, that would go a long way in determining if you have a runner after a fuel system and starter service.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Does it have good spark? If it's been sitting then it would likely need a fuel system rebuild at minimum. If you can fix up a way to do a pressure and vac test, that would go a long way in determining if you have a runner after a fuel system and starter service.
Planned on rebuilding the carb, has an hl Tilly on it and I have all the kit parts in my drawers. Was going to pull flywheel and clean points and set gap at 18-20 then see what rewind needs ect. May just need a rope, guess I can make all the needed parts to block off the ports to vac test
 

heimannm

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You might as well make those parts Chris, you will be needing them again for additional projects...
 
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