MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[heimannm]

My notes say the PM60 is 600036.

Mark

 

[qurotro]

Took my 35A apart today. It only need a flathead screwdriver and a 7/16 wrench!
The moisture got the bore a bit, but seems smooth with no pitting. The piston ring gap is like 1mm wide which might be a bit excessive?

 

[JT78]

Anybody know where I can find a chain adjuster/bar clamp for attaching the bar on a Mac 895?

 

[heimannm]

I have plenty of 52046, standard two ring sets for the 33/35/39 models, as well as a few 36678 three ring sets for the earlier saws.

I also have a large supply of 52211, the bar adjuster/clamp for the large frame gear drive saws.

Contact me via PM for more details if you are interested.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

I bought this troublesome PM 10-10 back in late April-early May & just couldn't figure it out.It had an air leak,so I put new seals in it & it ran like it did before I put the seals in.I ended up throwing it in a corner for a few months & gave it some thought.Yesterday I tore the saw down almost completely.I split the 2 engine halves & saw that there was no sealant anywhere.I put a thin layer of Motoseal on the 2 halves & around the seals.I put it back together & was about 90% finished & quit.I finished putting it back together this a.m.& tried firing it up.The carb was very touchy to get it to idle & I put some Seafoam in with the fuel.After running it for a few minutes it seemed to straighten out & run the way it should.I went to have lunch & came back out about an hr.later & the saw fires right up,throttles up,& idles well.I then had to move on to the chain brake which didn't want to stay in the unlocked position.I ended up taking the handle off & repositioning the spring & now it seems to stay unlocked.I need to find a 16 in.bar & chain for it.

 

[edju1958]

Yesterday I went to put a new 16 in.bar & chain on the PM 10-10 & had a helluva time.I put the chain on & when I tightened it up it'd bind.The rim looked almost new,so I ended up taking the clutch off & found that someone had put a .325 pitch rim on ity.I figurerd no problem,I'll get one of my Mac 16 in..325 bars that I bought a few yrs.ago.I went through my entire stock of bars & no Mac bars to be found (I had 3 of 'em).Apparently the thief/thieves who broke into my house 2 months ago made off with the bars,my tap & die set,my container of fuel line,a gal.of bar oil,& my heat gun.I ended up changing out the rim to a .375 pitch.Here's a pic of it all dressed up.

 

[edju1958]

Here's another PM 10-10 that I got yesterday.I put fuel in it & had to change the plug due to it not being the correct one,& it fired right up & ran with just one prime.I had to change out the sawdust screen (thanks Mark!) & put in a fuel line that I'd forgotten I had gotten from Sawzilla (Proline brand) just to see how they'd work.It works just fine,no leaks (yet).I found a used Mac bar & chain to replace the hard nose bar that came with it.It's got great compression.

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

I’ve spent a bit of time trying to get this running. It’s really close, I can get it to start & idle a little, then it dies. It has to be something carb related but being unfamiliar with this one it hard to tell what. Back on the shelf for a while then I’ll try again.

 

[Jusgunn3]

Well I got my neighbors Pro Mac 700 today that he got from a buddy. It’s been sitting for years not sure how many but it’s in great shape just needs to be cleaned up. It was rough to start and when it did it would die or die when you hit the throttle. I adjusted the H/L and the idle screw and it fired right up! After a little bit of tuning I was cutting into a big stump out back and it seems to run pretty good. I think I am going to grab a new air filter, plug, fuel filter and fuel line and let it rip. Now I just need to find a new chain for the McCulloch bar that’s on it.

 

[heimannm]

I’ve spent a bit of time trying to get this running. It’s really close, I can get it to start & idle a little, then it dies. It has to be something carb related but being unfamiliar with this one it hard to tell what. Back on the shelf for a while then I’ll try again.

The fuel pump is on the bottom of the fuel tank, driven by an impulse signal from the crankcase. The impulse line reminds me of a pushrod tube from an old VW boxer.



There were several different versions of the carburetor on the 4-30/47/73/79 models but they all used the same metering diaphragm with a lever and a ball, no needle.



I have the fuel pump bits, as well as some OEM diaphragms and some of the reproductions from Brian Genrich if that turns out to be your issue.

Mark

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

The fuel pump is on the bottom of the fuel tank, driven by an impulse signal from the crankcase. The impulse line reminds me of a pushrod tube from and old VW boxer.

View attachment 430666

There were several different versions of the carburetor on the 4-30/47/73/79 models but they all used the same metering diaphragm with a lever and a ball, no needle.

View attachment 430667

I have the fuel pump bits, as well as some OEM diaphragms and some of the reproductions from Brian Genrich if that turns out to be your issue.

Mark

Thanks Mark. It could be my diaphragm is not flexible enough or maybe the fuel pump is not functioning properly. Do you need to take the tank apart to check it?

 

[Bigmac]

Got my junkyard dog together last night, and fired her up for the first time on lunch break, it’s an early SP 125 cylinder with low exhaust port.. I did a heavily ported intake manifold and don’t like the way it comes off idle, going to try my epoxy manifold and see if that changes anything,

 

[heimannm]

The tank needs to come off, but you don't have to take the tank itself apart.

Let me know if you need an IPL.

Nate - I put together the iron bore SP125 with an LRB piston and ran it last weekend in Baraboo, WI. At least for the short term it did alright.



Mark

 

[Sloa]

Hi currently trying to turn over, compression is more than I can pull. A little easier with decomp out but still by the second explosion of combustion it’s just to damn hard. Should it be so hard is there a way to reduce so a little man like me can make it happen. Have a little brother coming over , he has twenty five pounds on me. Still don’t think will be enough.

 

[heimannm]

You can try closing the points a few thousandths of an inch, try 0.015-0.016" fully open and see if that helps.

Mark

 

[pastryguyhawaii]

The tank needs to come off, but you don't have to take the tank itself apart.

Let me know if you need an IPL.

Nate - I put together the iron bore SP125 with an LRB piston and ran it last weekend in Baraboo, WI. At least for the short term it did alright.

View attachment 430744

Mark

I have an IPL, thank you. Do you have any fuel pump parts? I have a feeling that’s my problem.

 

[Bigmac]

Hi currently trying to turn over, compression is more than I can pull. A little easier with decomp out but still by the second explosion of combustion it’s just to damn hard. Should it be so hard is there a way to reduce so a little man like me can make it happen. Have a little brother coming over , he has twenty five pounds on me. Still don’t think will be enough.

Are you using a prime to help start it if not, do! that really helps if they’re a touch lean, or have been sitting

 

[Sloa]

Hi it was enough, I did okay as well. Just about technic . But only got it to bark and puff in total maybe five times. Movement became smoother and sure will start. The cord got ripped out of our hands also with considerable force three four times. Am I not feeding enough into carb for a continuous rumble and is the cord issue also premature start and prime more?

 

[edju1958]

I came across a saw today that I didn't even know Mac made,it's a 1-45.The saw is completely seized,even the carb & oiler linkages & the recoil.I got the carb linkages & oil rod freed up,but I broke off one FW fin trying to break the piston free.I have the cylinder mostly full of kerosene.The chain was seized onto the bar too,but I did manage to get them off the saw..The oiler doesn't pump oil,probably the little rubber piece has corroded to nothing.I tried putting heat on the recoil pulley to get it apart,but it's tight as a drum.I'm afraid of putting too much heat on the little pulley on the recoil (the part that engages the pawls) & melting the plastic housing.

 

[Sloa]

Are you using a prime to help start it if not, do! that really helps if they’re a touch lean, or have been sitting

sorry had page open and didn’t see your post. Yes using prime bottle. We were so close but Leary of that handle and it started to get buggy and was going to rain, but we were excited about how it was sounding.