MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[nbbt]

No sealant should be needed if the fuel line is correct for the saw. As Steve noted, a few wraps of Teflon tape will work wonders. I recently bought an AM fuel line just to see if it would work...it was so loose in the hole I tossed it aside, I'm not sure even Teflon tape would be able to fix it. When I run out of OEM lines I will continue to use grommets and Tygon, I find that is also a good solution and provide a leak proof pass through the fuel tank.

Mark

Ended up with very light weeping after sitting overnite with the replacement line. The old line left a puddle of fuel in a short time window.
I'll remove the line again, check/clean the hole if necessary, and initially try the teflon tape wrap.
Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Al Smith]

Some time ago I found some either new old stock or good aftermarket Mac lines on MFG supply in Wisconsin .I'm not certain but I think they buy job lots of parts .So that specific part may or may not be in stock .To further add I found a NOS line for a 2100 CD Husky but that item was not inexpensive .Well worth it to me because I caught that thing afire from a half-fast fuel line I cobbled togther .Try that some time it will throw you into overdrive in about a millisecond .I'm almost fearless but that scared me .

 

[Dream]

When installing in a 10-10A the new fuel line, what kind of sealant added where it goes through the fuel tank cover has been effective at preventing/eliminating seepages?
Easy to find products locally preferred!!!

Ive wrapped Teflon tape around an old fuel line to stop a leak.
Got that advice from here, and it works.

 

[Dream]

I was thinking of going back to points on the PM 10-10.The only thing is I've only got about 2 or 3 condensers left that are any good.I sure as hell am not going to pay $30 + shipping for a "new" condenser that I don't even know is any good.There will come a time when the chip will be the only resort to keep these old Macs running.

Condenser is a condenser.
If its small enough and has the right strap hole to anchor it in place, it will do what it does. Store and release a charge. Its just a capacitor essentially.
Smoothes out the transient current from the points.

 

[Dream]

I got the 850 back together but ran out of time so haven't tried to start it. I'm also going to fix that ugly beat up padding on the handleView attachment 370676View attachment 370678View attachment 370679View attachment 370680.

Dang that looks good D!
Nice work!

 

[nbbt]

Ive wrapped Teflon tape around an old fuel line to stop a leak.
Got that advice from here, and it works.

Added the tape, to early to tell if leak issue is fully fixed, but seems to be ok now.
Now trying to get it to run correctly. Can get it to start easily, but not having much success with getting any more than a 5-20 second run.
Yes the carb was cleaned and rebuilt. and rechecked.
Don't know the full history of this saw.
I'm wondering if the gaskets under the fuel tank / sealing to the cylinder could be part of the issue. Another area to look at, I guess!!

 

[Dream]

Added the tape, to early to tell if leak issue is fully fixed, but seems to be ok now.
Now trying to get it to run correctly. Can get it to start easily, but not having much success with getting any more than a 5-20 second run.
Yes the carb was cleaned and rebuilt. and rechecked.
Don't know the full history of this saw.
I'm wondering if the gaskets under the fuel tank / sealing to the cylinder could be part of the issue. Another area to look at, I guess!!

Definitely check to make sure the gasket under the tank/handle assembly is in place.
That one is easy to get out of place.
Crank seals are not usually a problem on these series of saws.
Could also be a leak at the rear of the gas tank top half.

Those had a cork gasket that went around the tank top. They also had a rubber gasket that was supposed to seal off the air box area where the carb lives.
Sawzilla has a nice EPDM tank gasket kit that will fix any tank half fuel leaks for you. Money well spent IMHO.

 

[Al Smith]

Carb problems can drive you bonkers .Sounds to me those short runs are because it's not pumping correctly .It's next to impossile to trouble shoot over the internet .My suggestion is to go to whatever carb it has web site .Every one of them has not only the flow diagram of the carb but trouble shooting instructions .Often it's something simple . One that caused me much consternation was installing a spacer gasket on the wrong side of the main diaphragm .That was an 042 Stihl I banished to the shelf for two years .Sure enough in spite of the fact I've rebuilt many this one I had a brain fart . It happens .

 

[Steve]

Added the tape, to early to tell if leak issue is fully fixed, but seems to be ok now.
Now trying to get it to run correctly. Can get it to start easily, but not having much success with getting any more than a 5-20 second run.
Yes the carb was cleaned and rebuilt. and rechecked.
Don't know the full history of this saw.
I'm wondering if the gaskets under the fuel tank / sealing to the cylinder could be part of the issue. Another area to look at, I guess!!

I had a crank seal on a 2-10 do the same thing and I had a bad coil do the same thing on a CP-55.

 

[nbbt]

Carb problems can drive you bonkers .Sounds to me those short runs are because it's not pumping correctly .It's next to impossile to trouble shoot over the internet .My suggestion is to go to whatever carb it has web site .Every one of them has not only the flow diagram of the carb but trouble shooting instructions .Often it's something simple . One that caused me much consternation was installing a spacer gasket on the wrong side of the main diaphragm .That was an 042 Stihl I banished to the shelf for two years .Sure enough in spite of the fact I've rebuilt many this one I had a brain fart . It happens .

I had a crank seal on a 2-10 do the same thing and I had a bad coil do the same thing on a CP-55.

If I didn't expect a few twists in the road to get this almost new 50 YO saw restored to serviceable running condition, most would say I was delusional. .

I'm liking hearing about the issues that others have discovered in their quests of saw recoveries.

 

[heimannm]

The 10 Series saws, the 54cc models in particular, are like running an old flat head V8...not the fastest or lightest weight but greats gobs of power and incredible durability when compared to the modern displacement equivalents.

Having said that, I must admit that I run my 550XP a lot more than my PM55...however if the task at hand is noodling large rounds so I can manage them into my splitter, the PM55 is a great choice.







Mark

 

[Steve]

The 10 Series saws, the 54cc models in particular, are like running an old flat head V8...not the fastest or lightest weight but greats gobs of power and incredible durability when compared to the modern displacement equivalents.

Having said that, I must admit that I run my 550XP a lot more than my PM55...however if the task at hand is noodling large rounds so I can manage them into my splitter, the PM55 is a great choice.

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Mark

I disagree Mark! Build a fresh PM60 and you'll never touch the PM 55 again.

 

[Al Smith]

I think we all get our favorites .One of mine might be a 6-10 Mac which in retrospect of a flat head Ford 8 BA is like 70 cc of greased lighting .However in constant usage I don't think it would make it in the long haul . That aside with a shed full of saws a couple resting on the shelf isn't really a bad thing .They were experiments that worked for special occasions .

 

[Scott Kelsey]

Does anyone know a source for the sprocket rivets on a McCulloch bar? The sprocket is binding and I can't get it cleared out. Looks to be fibers or strings jamming things up. I was planning to remove the sprocket to see what I am dealing with. But I first want to make sure I can find the correct rivets at a reasonable price. Is there a part number or certain size rivet to look for? Any help is appreciated.

Sent from my moto g power (2022) using Tapatalk

When I used to build snowmobiles i ordered solid rivets for bucking tunnels and bulkheads together. I used Jay-Cee Sales and Rivet. They were nice to deal with so maybe they can help you.

Rivets by Jay-Cee | Rivets in Stock

Largest Rivet Selection Online. From blind rivets, solid rivets, semi-tubular rivets and all the rivet tools you can imagine; Click for Rivets!

rivetsinstock.com

 

[MNMacGuy]

Thanks Scott. I will check them out. I appreciate the help.

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[Al Smith]

On these smaller displacement 10 series ( 10-10 ) in all these years I've only experianced two seal failures and no bearings go bad .One coil which healed itself after a few months in the house drying out .They are pretty much bullet proof .

 

[heimannm]

The Jay Cee catalog shows flat head steel rivet 5/32" diameter, but they don't specify the length. The ones I have on hand are 0.255" long.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

I was looking over my Walbro SDC37 carbs yesterday & noticed that on one of them the throttle return spring was buggered up.I got it straightened out somewhat & it seems to be working OK,but it's sticking up too far & I think it may create a problem with the gasket.I found the Walbro part # - 98-235-7,McCulloch part # 85981.I've looked all over the web & can't find a reasonably priced one (I refuse to pay $5 for a 75 cent spring,yeah I'm cheap).My next option is to give VE Petersen a call,but I believe the minimum order there is $25.I don't have any "junk" SDC carbs with the spring on that I could pilfer from.

 

[edju1958]

I've had an Eager Beaver 2.1 for about 5 1/2 yrs.now & I could never get the oilers to work consistently.The last time I fiddled with the saw was almost 2 yrs.ago.
Today I was in the garage looking for a 10-10 to test coils on when I spotted the little rascal & figured I'd have another go at it.I had to get it fired up first which took about 3 primes & then it fired up.I shut it down & pulled the tank off the front & was in disbelief at what I'd done previously.In my haste I forgot to stuff the oil line back into the tank after connecting the line to the pump.This resulted in a kink in the line due to getting pinched.I took an oil tank & line off a 2.3 that had little to no compression & put it on the 2.1 & had instant success.I almost think the auto-oiler is working too.I love this little saw for limbing!

 

[MedicineMan]

More progress on the 850. Made that ugly handle into a pretty handle. The tubing was in great shape but like most of the old macs, the padding was all beat up.