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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Dream

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That's Georgia red clay. Not easy digging. Being late winter early spring helped. After a 2 month drought in august it would be like digging concrete.
Amen to that.
Up here, we have not only red clay, but a LOT of rocks.
Ive got a little cheapo 50 cc one person auger, and it will beat you up pretty bad when it hangs a rock in the sideof the hole.
 

edju1958

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I've got a pair of 3816s that I dug out of mothballs for a change up.I took the carb off the one with no spark & put it on the saw that has spark & got nowhere.I rebuilt the carb,but it was a kit that had an acetate diaphragm,I absolutely hate them.The saw would start & run till the fuel ran out,then it'd just die & that was that.It has new fuel lines & primer bulb,new fuel filter.I had it running like a champ about 4-5 yrs.ago & I went to shut it off & it didn't.I pulled it apart to find the switch wire was disconnected from the coil.I plugged it back on & the saw would only run on a prime after that..I've come to the conclusion that any Mac saw under 54cc isn't worth a chit.So what do I do?I go & buy a 3200 for $27.I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.
 

Maintenance Chief

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I've got a pair of 3816s that I dug out of mothballs for a change up.I took the carb off the one with no spark & put it on the saw that has spark & got nowhere.I rebuilt the carb,but it was a kit that had an acetate diaphragm,I absolutely hate them.The saw would start & run till the fuel ran out,then it'd just die & that was that.It has new fuel lines & primer bulb,new fuel filter.I had it running like a champ about 4-5 yrs.ago & I went to shut it off & it didn't.I pulled it apart to find the switch wire was disconnected from the coil.I plugged it back on & the saw would only run on a prime after that..I've come to the conclusion that any Mac saw under 54cc isn't worth a chit.So what do I do?I go & buy a 3200 for $27.I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.
Haha, Ed your the only guy I know who actively discourages himself and then goes ahead with it!
 

edju1958

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I've worked on a lot of saws over the past few yrs.Some were easy to work on,some not so easy.I just finished up on my brtother's Stihl MS290.He bought the saw new in 2011 & probably hasn't put 50 cord through it.It needed a new fuel & air filter (the originals were still in it).He broke the front carry handle & cobbled it back together.He also broke the chain brake handle.I've revived the saw twice in the last month,& in the last 2 days I replaced the front handle & the chain brake handle.I cleaned the saw from top to bottom & the recoil holes for ventilation were totally plugged.He's hell on chainsaws,doesn't believe in cleaning them at all..I at least check the air filters to make sure they're clean..
I know this is a Mac forum,but I've seen otyhers here post about their other branded saws on occasion.I've worked on my MS250 to replace the carb a few months ago.The Stihl saws are not easy saws to work on IMO..I know Bob Johnson absolutely refused to work on Stihls & Huskys.I don't know which is morer difficult to work on,the Stihls & Huskys,or the Mini Macs.
 

edju1958

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Today I ended up winning a Super 10=10 on feebay..It looks to be promising.I might have to put a different oil tank on it,not to clear in the pics.
I have a Super 10-10 that I bought a few yrs.ago that I fired up earlier today for the 1st time in almost a yr.Last yr.I decided to put an auto oiler in it,previously it was a manual oiler only.I've had a problem with the oil rod hanging up on something since I did the upgrade.I guess I'll have to pull the cover off the FW side & have a look.I thought it was a stuck or sticking check valve,but if I tap on the oil rod button & free it up it'll oil just fine.

I also found the problem with the 3816 as to why it'll only run on a prime.The carb won't hold pressure even with a new OEM Zama kit in it.I had another identical carb in the garage that I checked & it was even worse..
 

edju1958

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I found the problem with the manual oiler on the original Super 10-10 today.I pulled the FW cover off & saw that the cap for the oiler is missing.I have no idea as to how it came off,but the rod was coming out of position & not contacting the plunger.I'll try pulling the FW,then sliding the oiler rod back & try to sneak another cap on the pump.This would certainly beat the hell out of pulling the carb,fuel tank,& handle off again.
 

down-n-dirty

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down-n-dirty - I've done some checking and no matter what the internet or the box told you, Oregon 10624 will not work on a 5/8" crankshaft. The bore of the drum .688" and the crankshaft diameter as you know is .625.

103688 is the same as several other McCulloch part numbers including 68866, 87111, and 90360 which are an SCE910 or just 910 bearing with an O.D. of .750".

As far as I know, the only large spline drum that will fit the 5/8" crankshaft for the large frame saws is an Oregon 10608 and is fit with a bronze bushing.

I have bearings (9/16x3/4) and bushings (5/8x3/4) that can be used in the large frame drums like 90359 but at this moment I am not aware of any spline drums with bearings that will fit the large frame saws using the 5/8" crankshaft.

I do have a few 60919 drums with bearings that fit the 5/8" crankshaft but they have a fixed rim .404-7 sprocket, not the splined/floating rim type that allows you to replace the sprocket independently.

Mark
Hey Mark, thank you very much for the excellent response, I haven't had time to respond until now but everything you said is golden.
I did locate a 7 tooth clutch drum and sprocket (star type) which I had to press the bronze bushing out of the old one and into the 10608 and am back in business. Thanks again and have a great day.
 

edju1958

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I wasn't as lucky as I'd have liked with not pulling the Super 10-10 apart.I pulled the FW & punched the roll pin out far enough to slide the oiler rod out,but try as I may,I couldn't get the cap to go on.Just not enough room to work.I ended up pulling the saw apart just to get that dang little cap on.Good thing I did too because when I removed the carb I found that there was no gasket in between the carb & the spacer.I have no ideas as to how the saw even started let alone run.I put a new cap on that I had here,one of my last ordered items from Bob J.I got the saw back tyogether & the rod isn't jumping out of place anymore.It fired up on the 3rd pull.I'll put oil in it tomorrow & see if the auto oiler is working.
 

edju1958

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I got the 3200 today & it's in really good shape except for the rotted fuel lines & primer bulb.I put some fuel in the cylinder & a little more in the carb.The saw started & throttled up nicely till the fuel was gone.I'm having a helluva time with one of the fuel lines going into the tank.One I can get in without a problem,but the other return line is a real biotch.Do I just stick the return line into the tank a ways & hope it doesn't leak?I've never seen a company make a square hole for a round fuel line,but Mac did.
 

edju1958

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I got the Super 10-10 yesterday & could only check it's compression which is good.I went through the Super 10-10 today & found that it must've been sitting idle for the past 25-30 yrs.I pulled the FW cover off & it was caked with old oil & sawdust that was almost petrified.I got it cleaned out the best I could for now,I'll have to pop the FW & the coil to get at it better.Missing a bar plate,as usual.I checked for spark & was surprised it has good blue spark.It had the wrong plug in it as usual too.I put fuel in it & pulled & pulled & got nothing till I primed it.It wants to run,but I'll need to change the fuel filter & possibly pull the carb for a rebuild.
 

edju1958

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It seems that lately nothing can be simple in my life.I pulled the carb for a rebuild after a new fuel filter did nothing & in the process the fuel line broke due to being brittle.No problem,I had a new fuel line on hand & it actually fit nicely,no leaks! The SDC37 that was on the saw was the culprit.I put a new kit in it & it refused to hold pressure.I went & got another SDC37 that held pressure,put it on & fueled it up.The saw starts hard & refuses to idle.It throttles up very nicely,but after idling for about 15-20 seconds it acts like it's loading up & dies.I have to choke it to restart it & it does it all over again.I'm going to pull the FW cover & spray brake cleaner under the FW to see if the seal is bad there.Too bad I can't do that on the clutch side.
 

MedicineMan

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I've had a PM850 disassembled in a box for a while. waiting for some motivation. It needed a good cylinder and piston which I also had. A member here on OPE asked if anybody had an 850 that they would part with so I decided to get some motivation and part with it. But first I have to rebuild it.
 

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MedicineMan

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I stripped the paint off a couple of weeks ago but got distracted putting up a new deer and racoon proof fence around my dad's garden. It was a cold rainy day in GA today so I was able to get back on the 850. Media blasted the parts in preparation for powder coating. Also got started on the powder coating. I have a small oven so can only do a couple of pieces at the time. I'll post photos of the coated parts after I have them all done.
 

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Al Smith

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Just a blurb about the 82 cc series 10 Macs .They might be a little slower than a modern saw of same displacement but they've got what it takes .Spin a 32" inch with gusto .As far as I know on the left coast they ran 36"s on the soft woods Because I've got a couple of west coast 10 series bars that are 36"
 

MNMacGuy

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Does anyone know a source for the sprocket rivets on a McCulloch bar? The sprocket is binding and I can't get it cleared out. Looks to be fibers or strings jamming things up. I was planning to remove the sprocket to see what I am dealing with. But I first want to make sure I can find the correct rivets at a reasonable price. Is there a part number or certain size rivet to look for? Any help is appreciated.
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heimannm

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I have these, 86854, 3/8 pitch 11 tooth sprockets with rivets. The rivets are 5/32 (0.155") x 0.270" long. Spread sheet says $9.95 + shipping for the complete kit.

20230313_081555.jpg

Send me a message if you are interested. If you think of any other parts you need it helps spread out the shipping cost.

Mark
 

MNMacGuy

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Thanks for the replies Mark and Al.

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Al Smith

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I had no idea those style of bars had replaceable sprockets .Decades ago when I sold firewood I'd spin the sprockets right off of them .Those were TSC bars ,banana bars not reversable .Not what one would consider as being high quality .Fact a hard nose bar would have been a better option I later found out .
 
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