MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[heimannm]

The only 5/32" diameter steel rivets I see listed in McMaster Carr are not the countersunk type.

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It might be possible to flatten them into the countersink on the nose, but it may also require some careful grinding to get them flush.

I've gotten by in the past just using a short length of steel rod and peening the ends over.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

This is for the carb gurus here.I've got an SDC65 that refuses to draw fuel.It's got a new kit in it & I've had it on 2 different saws with the same result.The carb holds pressure just fine.

 

[edju1958]

For the rivet issue on the bar that needs a replacement tip - back in the day when Central Tractor was around,they sold rivets by the box for old sickle bars & haybines.I don't know if Tractor Supply handles rivets,but might be worth a try.

 

[Steve]

This is for the carb gurus here.I've got an SDC65 that refuses to draw fuel.It's got a new kit in it & I've had it on 2 different saws with the same result.The carb holds pressure just fine.

Make sure the metering needle is not stuck to the seat. I had one that I rebuilt and didn't use it till a month later. Same issue are you have. Took it back apart and found the metering needle was stuck to the seat. Just poked it free and reassembled the carb and it was flawless ever since.

 

[Al Smith]

The only 5/32" solid steel rivets I found on McMaster -Carr that might work with modifications are number 97032A205 .Saying that it would be more simple to just use the correct ones from the start .

 

[edju1958]

I think I might've found the issue with the SDC65 not pulling fuel.When I pulled the fuel line off it had pressure built up in it & it squirted fuel at me.I noticed there was still fuel in the inlet,it should've been sucked into the carb.I tried to blow into the inlet & I couldn't.I took a small wire & worked it into the inlet & was then able to blow into it.What baffled me was that I didn't find any type of crud come out of the inlet.Possibly old varnish build up? I think a disassembly might be in order & a couple of runs through the UC with either Seafoam or Goof Off.

 

[MNMacGuy]

Thanks for the idea Ed. I'll have to stop in Tractor Supply sometime and see if they have anything that would work.

Sent from my moto g(7) optimo maxx(XT1955DL) using Tapatalk

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I think I might've found the issue with the SDC65 not pulling fuel.When I pulled the fuel line off it had pressure built up in it & it squirted fuel at me.I noticed there was still fuel in the inlet,it should've been sucked into the carb.I tried to blow into the inlet & I couldn't.I took a small wire & worked it into the inlet & was then able to blow into it.What baffled me was that I didn't find any type of crud come out of the inlet.Possibly old varnish build up? I think a disassembly might be in order & a couple of runs through the UC with either Seafoam or Goof Off.

Ive had that happen with carburetors were the inlet was a brass tube. If the edge of the tube is sharp it can slice off a piece of fuel line and lodge in the tube.

 

[edju1958]

I got another PM610 in the mail today that I bought fairly cheap ($44).The recoil was seized tight as a drum.I had to use my heat gun to get the screws loose that hold the starter & fuel tank assembly onto the saw.I think they were Loctited in.I sprayed the recoil down with Deep Creep & I'll let it soak overnight.I cleaned out the engine compartment by the FW & ignition module.Also cleaned the chain brake & around the clutch.Not too much crud all around.I put a new fuel filter in,the old filter smelled like fuel oil.I gave it a shot of fuel in the cylinder & it fired up.I'll need to pull the carb for a rebuild.Whoever had the saw must've thought they were clever,the choke rod is supposed to have 2 tits that stick up on the top & bottom & that holds the lever into the choke plate.The tits were gone & hhe drilled the lever out & put a cotter pin in & just had it setting in there.When the lever broke on my Timber Bear about 20+ yrs.ago,I put a wire in the choke plate & had it coming out the back of the saw with a loop on it.It worked very well,but I ended up replacing it a few yrs.ago so it wouldn't suck sawdust in.I've got a new choke rod coming from Mark.
This saw hasn't really cut that much wood IMO.It has great compression.I might have to run some kerosene through the oiling system.The oiler button doesn't want to push back out after it's been pushed in.Most likely old crusty oil is causing that.

 

[heimannm]

Ed, my reply to your message will help muddy up the waters a bit...I was asking if your choke rod had the pips or if it was drilled for a cotter pin. Most of the ones I have are equipped with the pips but there are a few for the cotter pin as well...I have one with the pips set aside awaiting your final command...

Mark

 

[MedicineMan]

I stripped the paint off a couple of weeks ago but got distracted putting up a new deer and racoon proof fence around my dad's garden. It was a cold rainy day in GA today so I was able to get back on the 850. Media blasted the parts in preparation for powder coating. Also got started on the powder coating. I have a small oven so can only do a couple of pieces at the time. I'll post photos of the coated parts after I have them all done.

 

[MedicineMan]

 

[MedicineMan]

PM850 now powdered and ready to start going back together

 

[Steve]

View attachment 369351

That looks beautiful!! Very nice job!

 

[edju1958]

Ditto! Now you're gonna make my 850 look like a turd,Lol.

 

[Dream]

View attachment 369351

Looks really nice D!

 

[Dream]

That looks beautiful!! Very nice job!

I'm lucky enough to have a couple of parts hes powder coated.
Excellent finish!
At some point, I'm going to have to send him some of the other parts for this saw, because it just wont look right with the shiny stuff against the rest of it.

 

[edju1958]

I pulled the carb off the 610 today & was going to rebuild it,but it was a Tilly HK.That's the worst carb that Tilly ever made IMO (comparable to the Walbro MDC).Anyway,I had a nice Walbro HDB that I put on.The choke rod & plate were the ones that had a hole drilled in it & a cotter pin in.The cotter pin had fallen out before I pulled the carb off & I had no idea as to how it was supposed to be assembled.I messed with it for quite some time before I got ticked off & stole a choke assembly from another running 610.I put it all together & within 3-4 pulls it fired up.It runs like a champ.I gotta put some kerosene in the oil tank & see if that'll free up the manual oiler return.Not a bad deal for $44 & it includes the bar & chain.

 

[heimannm]

Sorting through another tote with stuff from Woody.











Mark

 

[MedicineMan]

I'm lucky enough to have a couple of parts hes powder coated.
Excellent finish!
At some point, I'm going to have to send him some of the other parts for this saw, because it just wont look right with the shiny stuff against the rest of it.

I love to powdercoat. All I have is a cheap Harbor Freight powder gun and a Walmart toaster oven so I'm slow but getting a good powder coat is way easier for me than with paint.