MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Al Smith]

I recall not so long ago I noticed a Mac pm 800 not 14 miles from me on Craigs list .Another member of this forum expessed interest in it so I backed off ,Forget who it was .I certainly am not trying to corner the market on old Macs because I have plenty already .Plus the fact I already have several 82 cc Macs plus a rebuilder if and when I ever get on it .Needles to say I don't get real exicted any more on old Macs or any other brand of saws .

 

[heimannm]

View attachment 366283
If anyone is interested I just started putting carb kits together on eBay. You can fix carbs using existing metal disc's.

If those gaskets & diaphragm do not look familiar to you, they are for the older two man saws, 5-49, 7-55, 1225, and 99. I have one in my 99 and it works great. I sold one to a guy in Wisconsin (I attached the metal plate using LocTite 380, no rivets) and he said the saw started on the second pull.

Personally I don't trust any saw that starts on the first or second pull....there must be something wrong there...

Mark

 

[Frye]

down-n-dirty - I've done some checking and no matter what the internet or the box told you, Oregon 10624 will not work on a 5/8" crankshaft. The bore of the drum .688" and the crankshaft diameter as you know is .625.

103688 is the same as several other McCulloch part numbers including 68866, 87111, and 90360 which are an SCE910 or just 910 bearing with an O.D. of .750".

As far as I know, the only large spline drum that will fit the 5/8" crankshaft for the large frame saws is an Oregon 10608 and is fit with a bronze bushing.

I have bearings (9/16x3/4) and bushings (5/8x3/4) that can be used in the large frame drums like 90359 but at this moment I am not aware of any spline drums with bearings that will fit the large frame saws using the 5/8" crankshaft.

I do have a few 60919 drums with bearings that fit the 5/8" crankshaft but they have a fixed rim .404-7 sprocket, not the splined/floating rim type that allows you to replace the sprocket independently.

Mark

i just pulled these off my SP 125c and wondering if these are correct parts attached photos, also the clutch is 3 pad

 

[heimannm]

Oregon 10624 works on the SP125 as it has a 9/16" crankshaft at the clutch. Basically any large fram saw with a tapered clutch will be a 9/16" crankshaft. The other, mostly front tank saws with the threaded clutch have a 5/8" crankshaft at the clutch.

Mark

 

[Steve]

All this sprocket talk made me stumble apon this NOS kit I had laying around.

 

[Frye]

Oregon 10624 works on the SP125 as it has a 9/16" crankshaft at the clutch. Basically any large fram saw with a tapered clutch will be a 9/16" crankshaft. The other, mostly front tank saws with the threaded clutch have a 5/8" crankshaft at the clutch.

Oregon 10624 works on the SP125 as it has a 9/16" crankshaft at the clutch. Basically any large fram saw with a tapered clutch will be a 9/16" crankshaft. The other, mostly front tank saws with the threaded clutch have a 5/8" crankshaft at the clutch.

Mark

Would you happen to know the part # to the 3 pad clutch spring that uses the Orgon 10624 drum, the drum and the clutch pads look good but the spring looks stretched. I love working this saw

 

[Woodslasher]

Would you happen to know the part # to the 3 pad clutch spring that uses the Oregon 10624 drum, the drum and the clutch pads look good but the spring looks stretched. I love working this saw

According to my ipls 86079 or 88735 should work.

 

[Frye]

According to my ipls 86079 or 88735 should work.

much appreciated

 

[Woodslasher]

Fyi, on all the 125 clutches I've handled the springs felt loose and the shoes sorta flopped, but on the saw they held up fine and didn't allow the clutch to drag at idle. Ironically, the one clutch I put a new spring on was the only clutch that let the chain spin at idle. I swapped on an old floppy one and viola! Problem solved!

 

[Frye]

Fyi, on all the125 clutches I've handled the springs felt loose and the shoes sorta flopped, but on the saw they held up fine and didn't allow the clutch to drag at idle. Ironically, the one clutch I put a new spring on was the only clutch that let the chain spin at idle. I swapped on an old floppy one and viola! Problem solved!

Just checked and part number 88735 is for the 125c, I re adjusted my carb to factory settings and the saw runs better than it ever has but now the chain spins at idle and ive backed the idle screw all the way back, possible another problem?

 

[Woodslasher]

Just checked and part number 88735 is for the 125c, I re adjusted my carb to factory settings and the saw runs better than it ever has but now the chain spins at idle and ive backed the idle screw all the way back, possible another problem?

Possibly, do you know how to properly tune a saw?

 

[Frye]

Possibly, do you know how to properly tune a saw?

Yes, the reason for taking the saw back to factory setting then tuning it was it was dieing with any hesitation of the throttle at max rpm in a cut, at max rpm out of a cut it was fine. Did change fuel filter and plug as well before tune. running non eth fuel @32:1 have run 35:1 but rather run 32:1 and change a plug more often.

 

[heimannm]

If you cannot back out the idle speed screw any further, try turning the L jet a fraction CCW. That will add a bit of fuel and reduce the speed. I know on some of the saws the throttle linkage needs to be tweaked to allow the throttle to close fully so check that as well.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

60917 is the "Speed Mac" fixed rim 404-7T drum to fit a 9/16" crankshaft, 60919 fits the 5/8" crankshaft.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

This is a better copy...

 

[Steve]

60917 is the "Speed Mac" fixed rim 404-7T drum to fit a 9/16" crankshaft, 60919 fits the 5/8" crankshaft.

Mark

Yup, that's what it is. Anybody want/need it?

 

[heimannm]

PM sent Steve.

Mark

 

[Frye]

If you cannot back out the idle speed screw any further, try turning the L jet a fraction CCW. That will add a bit of fuel and reduce the speed. I know on some of the saws the throttle linkage needs to be tweaked to allow the throttle to close fully so check that as well.

Mark

If you cannot back out the idle speed screw any further, try turning the L jet a fraction CCW. That will add a bit of fuel and reduce the speed. I know on some of the saws the throttle linkage needs to be tweaked to allow the throttle to close fully so check that as well.

If you cannot back out the idle speed screw any further, try turning the L jet a fraction CCW. That will add a bit of fuel and reduce the speed. I know on some of the saws the throttle linkage needs to be tweaked to allow the throttle to close fully so check that as well.

Mark

Thank you will try that when i get the saw back together, waiting for some parts to come in. will be most likely the end of next week before i get her back together.

 

[MedicineMan]

My first attempt at sending a video. Let me know if it's not working

 

[Squareground3691]

My first attempt at sending a video. Let me know if it's not working

Don’t see anything, do you have a video server?