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Vinnywv

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Yes al, it is on the far righ just in front of the starter. It is driven by a worm gear on the final drive. And yes correct again on the sprocket. I borrowed one off my 55 and it fit with a little cleaning. Its .404 chain.

It came with a big ol bow bar and 1/2" pitch chain. The sprocket was a rim drive looking thing for gear drive saws. Id bet itd be bouncy with big chain. Id love to find a way to put 3/8 pitch chain on it. Ive been thinking on that....a gear drive 19/32" keyed female and a rim drive hub of some sort so i could change the rim out easily. Might be another project for my machinist buddy. Another day. Its not my only saw and likely wont ever wear out the big gear anyway..lol. just thinking is all.
 

heimannm

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The challenge with trying to make an adapter to accommodate rim drive sprockets on a gear drive saw is the limited space/material to work with. The shaft is 19/32" as has been noted, and a large spline is 7/8" diameter leaving only 0.140 wall thickness for any adapter and keyway. You must have a key on these since the shaft is straight, there is no other way to transfer the torque from the shaft to the sprocket.

If you can find them, there are a few rim type sprockets designed to work on the gear drive saws but you must have an assortment of shim washers to insure the sprocket line up correctly with the groove in the bar.

The most common of these sprockets is designed to work with the old McCulloch AR8 chain (1/2" pitch but smaller drivers) so that doesn't help much. I have seen both .404 and 1/2" for these rare gems.

7T .404

20220323_204507.jpg

6T AR8

20220323_204638.jpg

On the plus side, I have a good supply of 8T .404 spur type sprockets available if anyone is in need.

20220326_085727.jpg

Mark
 

edju1958

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After I finished on the 610s I had to find another saw to work on (I'm never at a loss of having enough saws to work on,Lol).So,I got over being pizzed at my Super 10-10 & tore it down once again only to find that I didn't need to tear it down the 2nd or 3rd time.I should've caught it when I pulled the carb off.I don't know what I was thinking when I did this,but I put both gaskets under the spacer.When I was putting it back together I looked at the IPL to make sure I had everything in the correct order.That's when I found my mistake,but not entirely my fault.The gaskets were so old that they looked like they were torn in half,like they'd peeled apart.I made a new gasket for under the spacer,& the gasket that goes between the carb & spacer was provided by Tilly.They're a bit smaller than the Mac OEM gaskets,but they work just fine.I got it all together today & put fuel in it & within 6-7 pulls it was running again.Something I noticed on the carb was the needle settings were a bit on the lean side on the hi.The hi needle was set at 1/2 turn out,I think the lo was at around 1 turn out.I tried setting the hi at 1 turn out,but it ran way too rich.I turned it in 1/4 turn & it hadgood throttle response & was no longer sluggish.The lo is at 3/4 turn out as well.I'm glad to have this saw back on the roster again.I almost forgot,I put an automatic oiler in the saw,previously it was manual oiler only,& it looks like the auto-oiler is working.
 

Dream

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After I finished on the 610s I had to find another saw to work on (I'm never at a loss of having enough saws to work on,Lol).So,I got over being pizzed at my Super 10-10 & tore it down once again only to find that I didn't need to tear it down the 2nd or 3rd time.I should've caught it when I pulled the carb off.I don't know what I was thinking when I did this,but I put both gaskets under the spacer.When I was putting it back together I looked at the IPL to make sure I had everything in the correct order.That's when I found my mistake,but not entirely my fault.The gaskets were so old that they looked like they were torn in half,like they'd peeled apart.I made a new gasket for under the spacer,& the gasket that goes between the carb & spacer was provided by Tilly.They're a bit smaller than the Mac OEM gaskets,but they work just fine.I got it all together today & put fuel in it & within 6-7 pulls it was running again.Something I noticed on the carb was the needle settings were a bit on the lean side on the hi.The hi needle was set at 1/2 turn out,I think the lo was at around 1 turn out.I tried setting the hi at 1 turn out,but it ran way too rich.I turned it in 1/4 turn & it hadgood throttle response & was no longer sluggish.The lo is at 3/4 turn out as well.I'm glad to have this saw back on the roster again.I almost forgot,I put an automatic oiler in the saw,previously it was manual oiler only,& it looks like the auto-oiler is working.
Hey Ed, check your PM.
So, somebody enlighten me.
I was in the habit of calling a 1010S a 1010 Super. It made sense, because it was a larger displacement saw, and other makers called similar models out as a "super" this or that.
Ive been told that the S actually stands for "special".
If so, then what exactly is a Super 1010?
 

northwest saws

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The challenge with trying to make an adapter to accommodate rim drive sprockets on a gear drive saw is the limited space/material to work with. The shaft is 19/32" as has been noted, and a large spline is 7/8" diameter leaving only 0.140 wall thickness for any adapter and keyway. You must have a key on these since the shaft is straight, there is no other way to transfer the torque from the shaft to the sprocket.

If you can find them, there are a few rim type sprockets designed to work on the gear drive saws but you must have an assortment of shim washers to insure the sprocket line up correctly with the groove in the bar.

The most common of these sprockets is designed to work with the old McCulloch AR8 chain (1/2" pitch but smaller drivers) so that doesn't help much. I have seen both .404 and 1/2" for these rare gems.

7T .404

View attachment 331824

6T AR8

View attachment 331825

On the plus side, I have a good supply of 8T .404 spur type sprockets available if anyone is in need.

View attachment 331826

Mark
I'd take one of those 8t spur sprockets Mark. I've got an 895 I'd like to put it on.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
 

Maintenance Chief

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edju1958

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The pic on Acres' site shows the Super 10-10 with a black fuel tank.My saw is totally yellow & it has an SDC16 instead of the more common SDC2.It was also manual oiling only,but not anymore.It also has the reed muffler.
I don't know how saws were ordered & bought back then.Were they ordered with options like a car or truck?Or did one just buy what was on the shelf at the dealership?
 

heimannm

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My Super 10-10 is all yellow, has the Pro Mac type fuel tank top and AF cover but RH start. I don't remember which carburetor it
has.

There were the "regular" 10-10S models as well as a family of 10-10S Special Edition models.

20181015_165653.jpg

Mark
 
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edju1958

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My Super 10-10 is all yellow, has the Pro Mac type fuel tank top and AF cover but RH start. I don't remember which carburetor is has.

There were the "regular" 10-10S models as well as a family of 10-10S Special Edition models.

View attachment 331981

Mark
I keep forgetting to take a pic of my Super 10-10 .It was one of my first 10-10 saws.I remember buying it on Feebay in Oct.I think it was 2018 for around $60.The seller lied about it having spark.I had to buy an impact drill to get the FW nut off so I could clean the points.The points were so tarnished from sitting that there was no way it could have spark.Once I cleaned the points the saw fired right up.I complained to the seller about his lying to me & he refunded about $20.IIRC there was something broken on the clutch too.
 

Dream

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My Super 10-10 is all yellow, has the Pro Mac type fuel tank top and AF cover but RH start. I don't remember which carburetor is has.

There were the "regular" 10-10S models as well as a family of 10-10S Special Edition models.

View attachment 331981

Mark
One in the center is what dad has.
Far left matches two of mine.
 
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