MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Steve]

This isnt a 1010.
I'm pretty sure.
Seems a bit heavy.
View attachment 331998

You finally got one Brent! Congratulations!

 

[qurotro]

Can anyone school me what's the difference between those 1-10, 2-10, 4-10, 1010?

 

[Steve]

Can anyone school me what's the difference between those 1-10, 2-10, 4-10, 1010?

How in-depth do you want to go? I can give you the cliff notes version or the "I need a desktop keyboard" version!

 

[heimannm]

1-10 and 2-10 are 54 cc and may have had either a Walbro "cube" type carburetor or the McCulloch "bullfrog".

4-10 is 70 cc with no compression release or DSP, bullfrog carburetor

There were at least 14 different model numbers for the 10-10, most are 54 but a few like the 10-10S models are 57 cc. All have a Walbro or Tillotson cube carburetor.

Other than that, there are no simple explanations...

My intention was to get one of each so I could examine them for myself...and promptly forget anything I "learned" in the process.



Mark

 

[qurotro]

How in-depth do you want to go? I can give you the cliff notes version or the "I need a desktop keyboard" version!

The parts swap ability... the unique features of them that kinda stuff.. Some right hand starter, even electric start that kinda special stuff
It seems that's a can of worms waiting to be open

 

[Al Smith]

I can't keep them straight either like what fits what . If I need a part I just root hog through a bunch of parts until I find one that will work .

 

[edju1958]

I finally remembered! Here are some pics of the Super 10-10.

 

[Dream]

You finally got one Brent! Congratulations!

Oh, and it came with some "pretty" powder coated parts.
Thanks again D.

 

[edju1958]

So muchj for my 650 build.I went to check the pawl springs on it & noticed the bolts were loose that hold the 2 halves together at the crank.I tightened them up & then couldn't turn the flywheel.I took the 2 halves apart & just as I suispected the bearing is bad.I tore a 610 apart 3 or 4 yrs.ago with the same problem.I need to take the flywheel off to find outy hopw bad the crank is,it doesn't feel good.
I looked on Feebay to see if there was a good 650 engine & there are several 610 engines & Timber Bear engines,but no 650.I think the only difference with the 650 was that it used steel rings & might've had a DSP.

 

[Dream]

So muchj for my 650 build.I went to check the pawl springs on it & noticed the bolts were loose that hold the 2 halves together at the crank.I tightened them up & then couldn't turn the flywheel.I took the 2 halves apart & just as I suispected the bearing is bad.I tore a 610 apart 3 or 4 yrs.ago with the same problem.I need to take the flywheel off to find outy hopw bad the crank is,it doesn't feel good.
I looked on Feebay to see if there was a good 650 engine & there are several 610 engines & Timber Bear engines,but no 650.I think the only difference with the 650 was that it used steel rings & might've had a DSP.

Well, since youre already getting half of one shipped, mayswell pay a little more and get the rest of it.
Assembly will be required, and I still have to find where I put the one with the good p&c...

 

[edju1958]

I didn't know you had one with a good P&C,I thought they were both bad.I was thinking of buying the 610 engine on Feebay,good thing you replied.I'd rather have the 650 engine & keep it original.See my PM.

 

[Dream]

I didn't know you had one with a good P&C,I thought they were both bad.I was thinking of buying the 610 engine on Feebay,good thing you replied.I'd rather have the 650 engine & keep it original.See my PM.

I THINK its good.
I know the one has peeled plating.
Wont know til I get home this weekend.
Havent seen your PM come through yet, was just going to offer before you went back to Evilbay.

 

[MedicineMan]

Oh, and it came with some "pretty" powder coated parts.
Thanks again D.
View attachment 332026

Hopefully you'll get it running and cutting good but it's gonna be painful to look at with those powder coated parts mixed in with all that rattle can. I have plenty of yellow and black powder so when your eyeballs hurt send 'em on down.

 

[heimannm]

The PM650 and all of the PM610 models after February 1984 had the thin rings. I believe but I haven't personally investigated it that the PM650 and perhaps the 690 cut off saw had more aggressive porting than the rest of the 600 Series saws. I did put new thin rings in a Timber Bear one time and that was seemed pretty good pulling a 24" bar so maybe the porting difference was just a perception. The 650 and 690 were the only ones I know of that were equipped with the compression release. The compression release was located above the muffler in the same fashion as the PM800 family of saws but used a more conventional 3/8-24 threaded pop up type release.

Mark

 

[Dream]

Hopefully you'll get it running and cutting good but it's gonna be painful to look at with those powder coated parts mixed in with all that rattle can. I have plenty of yellow and black powder so when your eyeballs hurt send 'em on down.

LOL!
May have to do that.
No good way ive found to reverse the rattle can attack.
At least if its powder coated I wont worry so much about using it for its intended purpose.
I just have to find something big enough to give it a workout.
I found the replacement sprocket tip too.
Thanks again.
Gonna get a few tips on building up those worn bar rails. My first thought was putting a brass or bronze plate in the chain groove and building up next to it.

 

[Dream]

The PM650 and all of the PM610 models after February 1984 had the thin rings. I believe but I haven't personally investigated it that the PM650 and perhaps the 690 cut off saw had more aggressive porting than the rest of the 600 Series saws. I did put new thin rings in a Timber Bear one time and that was seemed pretty good pulling a 24" bar so maybe the porting difference was just a perception. The 650 and 690 were the only ones I know of that were equipped with the compression release. The compression release was located above the muffler in the same fashion as the PM800 family of saws but used a more conventional 3/8-24 threaded pop up type release.

Mark

I do recall seeing the decomp on the bad cylinder.

 

[Woodslasher]

LOL!
May have to do that.
No good way ive found to reverse the rattle can attack.
At least if its powder coated I wont worry so much about using it for its intended purpose.
I just have to find something big enough to give it a workout.
I found the replacement sprocket tip too.
Thanks again.
Gonna get a few tips on building up those worn bar rails. My first thought was putting a brass or bronze plate in the chain groove and building up next to it.

Couldn't you just cut the grooves deeper?

 

[Dream]

Couldn't you just cut the grooves deeper?

I could, but its worn down at the tip where the sprocket fits. Probably cut just fine the way it is, but would be nice if there was an even transition there.

 

[Woodslasher]

I could, but its worn down at the tip where the sprocket fits. Probably cut just fine the way it is, but would be nice if there was an even transition there.

I typically have to grind a bit of the tip off to even them out, even on new bars. If I was a good welder I’d grind 1/8-1/4” of the rails for an inch or so back from where the tip seats and then rebuild the missing material with hardfacing, similar to what they did on the old roller-nose bars.

 

[edju1958]

This 650 build is getting quite "interesting".I'm learning quite a bit about engines in general.Today I learned about the locating pins on the piston.I've heard the term used before,but knew nothing about them.I'd pulled the piston out of the cylinder on what I thought was the "good" engine last night only to find out it was the engine with a bad bearing from 4 yrs.ago.The so called good engine I found with just the pioston & cylinder.I have no idea why the guy who had it before me took the crank out.So now I have 2 engines that need parts.I'll need to get a bearing puller to take the bad bearing off the crank to see if the crank is still good.This a.m.I managed to line up the rings on the locating pins & put it back into the cylinder.I also found out that it's so easy to change out seals when the crank is out of the engine,Lol.
So,depending on what Dream finds out with his 650 engines might make my day on my engines.Mix 'n match,Lol.I also had a flywheel for the 650 that had pawls with no spring action.I had one new spring here that I put on the worsty one & it works great.Then there was the other side with a spring all bent out of shape.I bent it back the best I could & it working good for now.Of course once it gets on the saw & I'm cranking on it it might be a different story.