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There is a thread on here somewhere discussing the subject of building the rail back with a welder and then grinding the groove back in using a disc on a jig. If I'm not mistaken scarr52 was part of the discussion and had built himself a jig that cut a perfect groove. Amazing fellow.LOL!
May have to do that.
No good way ive found to reverse the rattle can attack.
At least if its powder coated I wont worry so much about using it for its intended purpose.
I just have to find something big enough to give it a workout.
I found the replacement sprocket tip too.
Thanks again.
Gonna get a few tips on building up those worn bar rails. My first thought was putting a brass or bronze plate in the chain groove and building up next to it.
Here is a link to a similar thread that might help. It's not the specific one I remember so I'll keep looking. https://opeforum.com/threads/barshop-whos-got-one.12971/page-3There is a thread on here somewhere discussing the subject of building the rail back with a welder and then grinding the groove back in using a disc on a jig. If I'm not mistaken scarr52 was part of the discussion and had built himself a jig that cut a perfect groove. Amazing fellow.
Thanks Vinny.Dmaller are for a bar that has a smaller tail end. So the chain wont hit the other plates. Just a spacer
You should take up professional photography. Looks way better than in person.. Maybe you could do the same for those of us with weathered old mugs.Bar and chain are on.
Got out my 1010S to sharpen the chain.
You can tell what a monster this thing is compared to a 57 cc 10 series.
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I make a blank outer plare when running a multi mount roller nose bar for the same reason. It'll pore oil out if it can pass through the outer bar plate.Interesting