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Mycamaro_68

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While digging through my shed last week,I found my other missing PM310 & PM320.I got these saws about 3 yrs.ago & I didn't know much back then.The clutch cover/chain brakes are missing from both saws.I checked for spark on the 320 with the plug that was in it & got no spark.I decided to try a different plug & presto! I had spark.I put some fuel in the tank & pulled about 15 times & got nothing.I gave it several primes & it fired on each one,but wouldn't draw fuel on it's own.I'd changed out the fuel filter previously.After several primes it started drawing fuel from the tank.I had to make a couple carb adjustments & it ran much better.The oiler works great on it,but now I need to pull the carb for a rebuild because after I let it set & cool off it won't restart unless I give it a small prime.It's missing the carb cover & filter,& the choke lever & throttle lock lever along with the top carb plate.I've got a couple chain brakes eyed up on Feebay,just waiting to hear back from the sellers.
I will have to check tomorrow after work but i believe i have a complete pm310 that i would send you for the shipping cost.
 

Dream

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I was wondering if there is a good replacement carb for an SP40?
This one has a fixed high jet.
Would like to be able to tune it.
I found this Tilly from a green S25DA.
I believe the fuel inlet will work, as well as the throttle linkage.
Idle screw is pointing the wrong way, but I think a carefully placed small hole in the side cover would work.
Any thoughts on this?
The Tilly is an HU10A.
The Zama is a C1, but the series numbers have been ground off.
Any help with which kit it takes would be appreciated, as I may just kit it and see how it runs before modding anything.
1113211237.jpg
 

fossil

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I was wondering if there is a good replacement carb for an SP40?
This one has a fixed high jet.
Would like to be able to tune it.
I found this Tilly from a green S25DA.
I believe the fuel inlet will work, as well as the throttle linkage.
Idle screw is pointing the wrong way, but I think a carefully placed small hole in the side cover would work.
Any thoughts on this?
The Tilly is an HU10A.
The Zama is a C1, but the series numbers have been ground off.
Any help with which kit it takes would be appreciated, as I may just kit it and see how it runs before modding anything.
View attachment 315899

The kit for the ZAMA should be an RB-1.
 

fossil

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Just putting this out there for yinz guys. @Duke Thieroff has repro 125 boots made up and for sale. Haven't got my hands on one but saw he recently posted. Traverse Creek is his company. Thought it might be of interest. timg

I watched a vid by a collector doing a review for quality and fit up. It looks great.
 
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heimannm

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As you now know, the Super Pro (SP) is chisel chain and can be Square (SPS) or Round (SPR), yours looks to be square ground. The 408 is .404 and .058 gauge.

McCulloch also had some earlier chain designations including SM and SL as well as very early chains with designations XX, HH, JJ, HJ, and FF but I must confess that I don't know what they all mean. I am working on a spread sheet with all the different chain manufacturers and their designations but that is a grand undertaking and still a work in process.

Mark
 

heimannm

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On a completely unrelated note, does anyone know which key(s) I accidentally hit to turn my display into something that looks to be intended for the visually impaired? More importantly, how do I get it back to normal?

Everything, photos, avatars, print, are greatly enlarged.

Mark
 

edju1958

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On a completely unrelated note, does anyone know which key(s) I accidentally hit to turn my display into something that looks to be intended for the visually impaired? More importantly, how do I get it back to normal?

Everything, photos, avatars, print, are greatly enlarged.

Mark
Mark,try pushing down on the Ctrl button & then use the middle scroll wheel one way or the other to reduce the size.
 

Woodslasher

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Mark,try pushing down on the Ctrl button & then use the middle scroll wheel one way or the other to reduce the size.
Also, on a Mac you can hit command and either the plus or minus key, depending on whether you want to enlarge or shrink the page.
 

edju1958

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I got the long awaited new drum for the recoil on my 1-75 today.I'm trying to get the rope out of the old drum without much success.I know there's a pin that holds the rope in place,but haven't even seen it.I thought about just cutting the rope,but then I'm losing a much needed 6 in.I think Mac hired people especially to devise ways to make it more difficult to work on their saws.
 

Dream

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I got the long awaited new drum for the recoil on my 1-75 today.I'm trying to get the rope out of the old drum without much success.I know there's a pin that holds the rope in place,but haven't even seen it.I thought about just cutting the rope,but then I'm losing a much needed 6 in.I think Mac hired people especially to devise ways to make it more difficult to work on their saws.
Just keep at it.
It's a small silver hob nail-looking pin. Just a little fella.
I used a pick tool that I heated with the torch to make the new pilot hole in the new rope, then heated the pin and stuck it in there.
 

heimannm

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Thanks Ed, that fixed it.

McCulloch had a special tool, like a hollow needle that you can use to push the small rivet through the starter rope. I have a couple and they certainly come in handy. They even have a part number...

Mark
 

edju1958

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I'm not having trouble putting the pin into the rope,I'm having trouble finding the little bugger in the first place so I can pull it out & reuse the rope on the new drum.It seems I went through something similar with the DE80 a couple yrs.ago.
 

Steve

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I'm not having trouble putting the pin into the rope,I'm having trouble finding the little bugger in the first place so I can pull it out & reuse the rope on the new drum.It seems I went through something similar with the DE80 a couple yrs.ago.


Why reuse the rope? Starter rope is cheap!
 
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