MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[edju1958]

Ed - That is a tool that someone made, it was passed on to me. It is possible to disassemble those clutches, but it is not an easy task and normally requires more that two hands. You have to pull the shoes out and at the same time slip the spring in or out of the groove.

Mark

Mark,I've been doing a little thinking on this clutch,& thought about using a Dremel tool with a cut off disc to take that plate off or widen the gap so it's more accessible to get to the spring.That plate seems to be a little redundant to me.There are Homelite saws that have similar clutches that don't have a plate at all & the spring stays in the groove just fine.I have an extra clutch on hand that came off my 1-70,I could always use thaty clutch if I'm wrong.

 

[Al Smith]

On those starter drums on various saws I've turned brass bushings to repair them .An example being a 2100 Husqvarna which is a high compression saw but with the drum running concentric was nearly impossible to roll over .With a brass bushing it should last for a life time .You could probably use aluminum or hard nylon too but it would not be a stout as hard bearing bronze .

 

[edju1958]

On those starter drums on various saws I've turned brass bushings to repair them .An example being a 2100 Husqvarna which is a high compression saw but with the drum running concentric was nearly impossible to roll over .With a brass bushing it should last for a life time .You could probably use aluminum or hard nylon too but it would not be a stout as hard bearing bronze .

That's all well & good as a last resort if there are no more drums available,but to me it's worth the $10 for a new drum & be done with it.I don't have a lathe to turn anything anyway.I don't think by putting a bushing in the drum would take the wobble out anyway.If the drum is worn unevenly where the spindle goes through I don't see how a bushing would take the wobble out.I'd have to drill out the drum's boss & make it true,then insert a bushing.Too much fiddling around IMO.

 

[heimannm]

I came across this chain today. Is it worth anything? Or just a regular chain?
Looked to be for about 16" bar. Not sure how to read these codes.
View attachment 314188 View attachment 314189 View attachment 314190 View attachment 314191 View attachment 314192

After some research, I think the SM57 chain may in fact be .354 pitch. I have an order on the way that included a Super Mac drum (basically a rim type sprocket welded to the drum) that is an 8 tooth SM57. I can confirm that once it arrives. The later stuff had either 350 or 358 stamped on the drivers for .354 pitch .050 gauge or .354 pitch .058 gauge. Carlton used J1 (.050) or J2 (.058) for their .354 pitch chain.

Mark

 

[RI Chevy]

Thank you sir. I appreciate the help, as I am basically McCulloch illiterate.
Are these chains easy or hard to come by?

 

[edju1958]

Thank you sir. I appreciate the help, as I am basically McCulloch illiterate.
Are these chains easy or hard to come by?

The .354 pitch chains have been out of production since the early 80's & are not readily available.There are some out there yet,I believe Bob Johnson still has a roll of .354 pitch chain.I had several saw that I acquired that had the .354 pitch drums on them & I converted them to .375 pitch (3/8).

 

[edju1958]

I've run into a bit of a problem with the air filter bracket on the conversion of the domed style air filter to the flat style air filter (10-10A to PM 10-10).It seems there were 2 different Y shaped air filter brackets.I'll try to get pics on here tomorrow if I have time.

 

[RI Chevy]

TY sir...

 

[heimannm]

I have a large inventory of .354 chain in both .050 and .058 gauge. I also have clutch drums (spur type) and rim type sprockets available. I have a few replacement sprocket noses with the .354 pitch sprockets but I am keeping those for now. I do have new and used hardnose bars for the 10 Series saws from 16 to 24".

I know that Bob Johnson did have quite a supply of .354 pitch .050 gauge 61 drive link chains to fit 16" bars in the past.

Mark

 

[RI Chevy]

Thank you gor the insight guys. I appreciate it.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Yeah if anyone wants or needs a .354 drum or loop of chain most of us with Mac collections have a spare of it.

 

[edju1958]

Here are the 2 different brackets that I mentioned yesterday.The one on the saw is the one I need (2 needed).The one in my hand is too short,the stud is at least the thickness of the stud on the bracket on the saw ahead too far (if that makes sense).I have no idea what the part # is of the bracket on the saw.I went through this almost 4 yrs.ago with the first 10-10 that I resurrected.I got lucky & obtained the correct bracket when I went to my local saw shop & bought some 10-10s that were toast & one had the correct bracket on it.

 

[Steve]

Here are the 2 different brackets that I mentioned yesterday.The one on the saw is the one I need (2 needed).The one in my hand is too short,the stud is at least the thickness of the stud on the bracket on the saw ahead too far (if that makes sense).I have no idea what the part # is of the bracket on the saw.I went through this almost 4 yrs.ago with the first 10-10 that I resurrected.I got lucky & obtained the correct bracket when I went to my local saw shop & bought some 10-10s that were toast & one had the correct bracket on it.

View attachment 315441 View attachment 315442

Neither of those are correct for the flat filter Ed. This is the correct one. Keeps spit back from dissolving the flocking off the filter. The flocked domed filter has a big rubber piece molded in it to protect the flocking.

 

[edju1958]

Neither of those are correct for the flat filter Ed. This is the correct one. Keeps spit back from dissolving the flocking off the filter. The flocked domed filter has a big rubber piece molded in it to protect the flocking.

View attachment 315446

The last time I tried one of those brackets the stud sat forward too far & it didn't work.

 

[Steve]

The last time I tried one of those brackets the stud sat forward too far & it didn't work.

It was from a 600 series saw then? They look identical but the stud is more centered on those.

 

[edju1958]

It was from a 600 series saw then? They look identical but the stud is more centered on those.

I have no idea what they werer for,they look the same to me.If you could give me a part # & if the bracket has the part # on it I can compare.

 

[heimannm]

69952 and 83204 are for the 10 Series saws.

91938 for the 600 Series saws.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

69952 and 83204 are for the 10 Series saws.

91938 for the 600 Series saws.

Mark

I found what seems to be the 91938 covers & they obviously don't work.I looked around & found what I think are 83204s that I got from Bob about 2-3 yrs.ago.I'll find out more tomorrow.

 

[edju1958]

While digging through my shed last week,I found my other missing PM310 & PM320.I got these saws about 3 yrs.ago & I didn't know much back then.The clutch cover/chain brakes are missing from both saws.I checked for spark on the 320 with the plug that was in it & got no spark.I decided to try a different plug & presto! I had spark.I put some fuel in the tank & pulled about 15 times & got nothing.I gave it several primes & it fired on each one,but wouldn't draw fuel on it's own.I'd changed out the fuel filter previously.After several primes it started drawing fuel from the tank.I had to make a couple carb adjustments & it ran much better.The oiler works great on it,but now I need to pull the carb for a rebuild because after I let it set & cool off it won't restart unless I give it a small prime.It's missing the carb cover & filter,& the choke lever & throttle lock lever along with the top carb plate.I've got a couple chain brakes eyed up on Feebay,just waiting to hear back from the sellers.

 

[heimannm]

There was a service bulletin showing how to bend the choke plate slightly to insure it closes properly on the 300 Series saws. The 600 Series saws have the same issue...

The point is check to make sure the choke is shutting completely when it's on as that will affect cold starting.

Mark