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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

rsting

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I have a pretty good supply of .354 drums and a few .354 rim sprockets as well Ed. If you have no use for them I can always find them a good home.

Mark
I got a 100ft roll of oregon 354 pitch. Thinking of setting up one of my 10 series to run it. I could sure use a 354 rim.
 

edju1958

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I've got a PM310 with a leaking fuel tank.I just bought a used one on Feebay for $8 (I figured it was cheap enough).I'd like to know what's involved with changing out the tank.I can't do much of anything right now,just trying to gety my ducks in a row.
 

heimannm

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Sorry to say it is a very involved job any way you cut it Ed. The worst part is you have to deal with the carburetor, throttle, impulse, and fuel line that all terminate in the air box.

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If I get to your other saw(s) before you tackle that one I will see if it is possible to take everything off from the PTO side of the saw and leave the carburetor part of the housing in place.

Mark
 

edju1958

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Thanks Mark,much appreciated! I usually have another saw of the same model that I can use as my practice subject.I have one in mind that for some reason is missing the oil tank (?).All of the 310s & 320 I have here have great compression & I believe they all have spark as well.For some reason though they are all missing their chain brakes/clutch covers.One of the chain brakes I do have has a broken actuating lever (part # 93159) & a missing compression spring (part # 93602).When I looked at the IPL,it says that the compression spring is not sold separately.All the rest of the parts seem to be there for that chain brake.
I bought a used chain brake on Feebay for $15,& I can get another new one on 11/25 (gotta wait for the sale) for $22.50.When I called Bob J.about a new chain brake he kept telling me about the PM310 having a chain brake with 2 stud holes in it & how difficult it is to get the chain brake with 1 stud hole in it.I think he has the 2 reversed.Of course he needed to know the 6000 model # of the saw & it was not possible for me to tell him because Mac put the model sticker on the bottom of the saw & it's long gone..I did however find the model # on the IPL.
 

Woodslasher

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Where is the recommended location to put a Nova chip on a 10-10? I picked up one for my 10-10 but I’m not sure where I should put it.
 

Steve

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Where is the recommended location to put a Nova chip on a 10-10? I picked up one for my 10-10 but I’m not sure where I should put it.

I remove the points box under the flywheel and put it there. You can also mount it to one of the coil mount bolts. You will need a longer bolt if you do it that way.
 

Al Smith

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I don't know about those trigger chips .One of my 125's had some kind of chip that they had glued in, always falling loose .Finally the wires broke off .After I finally got the flywheel off the points assembly was still there plus it had I think a 2.5 degree offset key .I cleaned it up and gapped the points and it never ran as good as prior with the chip . I for one like points . I did not however check the static timing so I don't know if it was advanced or not .Runs good and starts easy for 123 cc which is all I care about .
 

Maintenance Chief

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Where is the recommended location to put a Nova chip on a 10-10? I picked up one for my 10-10 but I’m not sure where I should put it.
I use one of the longer screws from the points box and mount it to the old condenser mount.Screenshot_20211120-195243_Gallery.jpg
 

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edju1958

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I agree with you Al about liking points & condensers better than a chip,BUT....if you don't have another copndenser to replace the one that's in the saw now,you're pretty much up the creek without a paddle.I have a few Mac condensers left & a couple more to strip out of a couple dead mini macs,good thing Mac used the same condenser on every application.After those condensers are gone I'll have no other choice but to use a chip.The only chip I've run across that I like is the original Atom.
 

Al Smith

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For general info just about any condenser that will fit in the space provided on a mag ignition system will work .It's only function is stopping the points from flashing over unlike a battery automotive type where the coil voltage and the condenser needs to be matched up . I once used a condenser from a 6 volt Autolite coil on a 70 year old Isiacson mag on a 1943 Caterpillar D4 pony engine .Another time on a double trigger Homelite mini saw XL 2 or something the points and condenser come as a unit .I cut the bad one out and replaced it with a McCulloch condenser .Little bitty POS saw but I got it going for some unknown reason .
 

Al Smith

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I don't mean to act like a know it all about points type mag ignitions but I've been at this stuff longer than most people have been alive . They are simple unless a person makes them complicated which they are not .Problems on these are usually of a mechanical nature not electronic .Points don't close ,corrosion and things like that ,bad ground maybe .To repair them you have to first understand how they work which frankly a lot of people do not .Google is your friend .
 

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Agreed Al , points give you alot of wiggle room. They don't necessarily have to be spot on to fire. After cleaning them up and setting them to close to factory specs if they don't spark I know its a condenser.
 

Al Smith

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Usually problems will be on the low voltage side of the circuit .All it takes is a little grain of grit that holds the points open .Old trick is using a piece of paper after they have been dressed with a file, sand paper whatever .I've only seen one faulty points coil on Macs and it came around after I had it inside the house for a couple of months . .I just gave it a coating of glyptal and used it and never again had a problem .
 

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I've had one points coil I couldn't get to fire the old points on a 1-41. That was before I discovered the ignition chips. I did find and nos coil kit and new points for it , now I need to replace the seals.
 
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