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Dream

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Since it went off on a slant ,in my shop sits my dad's 1938 AC model B .I rebuilt that thing when I was a junior in HS .With a semi mount 14" plow it will pull the front end off the ground in sod .I also have his "cinder block" Mac 610 which he tweaked a tad bit plus the last Jeep CJ5 he built up from parts from three .
Ok, I'm inputting here, then back to the yellow stuff I promise.:)
Have a 1946 C that I still use for flail mowing and some cultivating. Its a Frankenstein with a kerosene power unit for an engine. Still has the power unit hood with tje hole for the starter tank and the brass tag from the road machinery company that originally sold it.
Dads still using my granddads 1950 C to work the garden.
Sold my 1940 kerosene B a few years ago.
I grew up on orange tractors. Nothing else sounds better, not even the green ones with 2 less pistons than they need.;)
 

edju1958

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Well guys,I'm happy to say that the 1-75 is a runner! I got the points & condenser in before lunch.What a job to get it back together,IMO one of the worst ignition systems that Mac ever devised.Everything was in the way of something else,& the little nut & lockwasher that went on the screw to hold the points in was almost small enough to be classified as microsurgery.I got it put together & then came time for the flywheel to go back on.It went on without a problem,but it kept hitting the coil when I tried to turn it by hand.I had to beat the screws that held the coil in place to loosen them so I could re-gap the coil.Once that was done the saw had spark again.Then it was time to see if it'd fire up.I checked the fuel filter & it looked good,so I put some fuel in it.Of course I pulled with the choke that you have to hold on with one hand while trying to start it with the other hand.Yeah,that don't work so good,so out came the oil can with 2 cycle mix in it.The saw would run on a prime,but refused to pull fuel from the tank.I could tell it wanted to,but just couldn't.I got a frersh fuel filer & changed it out & the saw started running after the 1st prime.Now I need to find out how to get the manual oiler working again.The button is stuck,I can't push down on it.I have no idea where to start with it.I know I need to put a new latch on what I call the trunk lid on the rear of the saw.Here are some pics.thumbnail.jpg thumbnail.jpg thumbnail.jpg
 

Al Smith

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I'd have to dig out the IPL to be sure but most of them are a small piston with an o-ring . It's old enough the o-ring could have crumbled hanging it up .The only one I had that failed was a 650 gear drive and that one literally wore the o-ring out and caused it to hang .
 

edju1958

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I've got the same issue with the oiler on my 1-70 too.The million dollar question now is how do I get the thing apart?I hope I don't have to pull the tank handle off for that.There's oil in the tank & it hasn't turned to glue like I've seen happen.It's got a consistency of a 30W.The 1-70 had an empty tank & I put kerosene in it.I've had a couple of saws that had used motor oil in them.Really?How cheap can someone get?
 

Al Smith

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You might be surprised what you might find inside an old saw .For example my avatar saw ,a classic old Douglas fir slayer , Homelite 2100S evidently was used as a fire wooder in Oregon .It had a half a tank of used motor oil in it .luckily no damage had been done to the oiling system, every thing worked .Now then the oil pump .I'll dig out the McBob cd and try to figure it out .I've never worked on this series of saws .Some place I have pictures of the old Mac 650 .However I have no idea which hard drive they are on .
 

Al Smith

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Well this isn't "gospel " but to me all these oilers look about the same .From what I see you will need to pull the oil tank off to get to the pump .From what I see the pump itself is in the rear side of the oil tank which opposite is the stuffer on the right hand side is the pump .Simple piston with an o-ring ,spring and ball check valve .The only way I can figure out how to get it is about half field stripping the saw which is not a ten minute job .
When I did the 650 as I recall I gave it a good soaking with WD-40 then was able to grab the piston with a set of needle nose pliers .Maybe somebody has an easier method because as I've said I've only done one of these .
A piston pump needs two check valves to work .One IPL showed a small pipe plug where perhaps some penetrating oil could be injected or perhaps you could get some in by way of the discharge ball check .If so it might free up .The Mc Bob CD did not have an IPL for the 1-70 or the 1-75 .
 

Al Smith

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Another brain storm that may or may not work .If you remove the front cover of the oil tank you might be able to use compressed air through the inlet to pop the pump loose and perhaps some WD-40 ,liquid wrench or something .That would be the most simple way as I see it .However to remove the rear of the tank you have to remove the front first so it isn't a wasted effort
 

edju1958

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Thanks Al.I took a look at the IPLs of the 1-75 & 1-70 - pretty much the same,& I saw where the piston goes into the rear of the oil tank.Luckily for me I have a 1-70 parts saw that I can practice on,Lol.It's always best to work on a saw that I don't give a hoot about first to see where I'm at.This way if I break something,or if a part goes a flying (like a spring) I won't be inclined to be so pissed off.So,basically I've got 3 of these buggers to tear down.I should be fairly good at it by time I get to the last one,Lol.
 

Al Smith

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So far I've figured out every type of oil pump on any saw I've ever worked on with two exceptions .Both are McCullochs .The mini mac impulse pumps and the PM 610 diaphragm pumps and I've even got the rebuild kits for the mini Macs .No luck at all .
 

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That is an old photo, probably taken 10 years ago. I was just trying to get us back on track...

You may notice two SP105's in the photo, one went away and I took the other one out today for a good exercise on an ash tree my son had taken down a few days ago.

That SP105 had not been run in 3 or 4 years so it took a little prime to get it started the first time. After that and a tweak of the idle speed it performed flawlessly. Compression is down but is still runs and cuts very nicely. I'd say the PM55 and the SP105 make a pretty good two saw plan.

20211022_162706.jpg

Mark
 

heimannm

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Mini Mac automatic oil pump.

IMG_5149.JPG

Sometimes it is necessary to service the check valve even though McCulloch says it is none serviceable. Grab that steel insert with a pair of pliers and twist and pull to get it out.

IMG_5152.JPG

Don't lose the check ball and spring.

IMG_5153.JPG

When you put it back together, make sure the hole in the steel insert line up with the inlet hole in the pump. There was a Service Bulletin about some leaving the factory with the insert pressed in incorrectly rendering the pump useless. They gave a proper dimension from the edge of the pump body to the top of the insert but I don't remember the figure.

Mark
 

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Dream

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That is an old photo, probably taken 10 years ago. I was just trying to get us back on track...

You may notice two SP105's in the photo, one went away and I took the other one out today for a good exercise on an ash tree my son had taken down a few days ago.

That SP105 had not been run in 3 or 4 years so it took a little prime to get it started the first time. After that and a tweak of the idle speed it performed flawlessly. Compression is down but is still runs and cuts very nicely. I'd say the PM55 and the SP105 make a pretty good two saw plan.

View attachment 313401

Mark
Nice Mark.
Always wondered about the 55s.
Can you tell what the differences are, if any, between them and the 1010 saws?
Are they 54 or 57 cc?
Also keeping on track, I repaired some stripped threads and JB welded a hole into the oiler tank on a 610 today.
Didnt even look at the tractor.:D
 

edju1958

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I bought this saw on Feebay yesterday.The ditzy seller says it's a model 3427 810 (new one on me).It'll need sopme work.I thought it might be a 2-10G,but others are telling me a 6-10.I'll find out when I get it.

s-l1600.jpg
 

Steve

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I bought this saw on Feebay yesterday.The ditzy seller says it's a model 3427 810 (new one on me).It'll need sopme work.I thought it might be a 2-10G,but others are telling me a 6-10.I'll find out when I get it.

View attachment 313504


Not a gear drive at all. Got any other pictures?
 

Maintenance Chief

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Nice Mark.
Always wondered about the 55s.
Can you tell what the differences are, if any, between them and the 1010 saws?
Are they 54 or 57 cc?
Also keeping on track, I repaired some stripped threads and JB welded a hole into the oiler tank on a 610 today.
Didnt even look at the tractor.:D
They are a 57cc saw.
 

heimannm

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Dream - PM55, PM555, PM570, and the 10-10S saws are all 57cc and have something special in the porting making them perform much better than the 3cc advantage over the 54cc 10 Series saws would suggest.

Ed - RH start with the DSP would be 5-10 or 6-10. 5-10 would have the bullfrog carburetor (early) or a cube (later). 6-10's were all cube type carburetors.

Mark
 

Steve

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Dream - PM55, PM555, PM570, and the 10-10S saws are all 57cc and have something special in the porting making them perform much better than the 3cc advantage over the 54cc 10 Series saws would suggest.

Ed - RH start with the DSP would be 5-10 or 6-10. 5-10 would have the bullfrog carburetor (early) or a cube (later). 6-10's were all cube type carburetors.

Mark

Could also be a super 2-10 except the fuel tank is yellow. Doesn't mean sometime in its life it had parts swapped around on it. need a good pic of the bottom to confirm but from the only pic we have I am leaning more to a 54cc engine.
 

Dream

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I bought this saw on Feebay yesterday.The ditzy seller says it's a model 3427 810 (new one on me).It'll need sopme work.I thought it might be a 2-10G,but others are telling me a 6-10.I'll find out when I get it.

View attachment 313504
Everything on the filter cover is printed in French from what I can tell.
Looks like a 6-10 to me, but I'm not that knowledgeable in the earlier 10 series stuff.
 

Al Smith

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Good info on the mini but I lost my patience and bypassed the pump and used the thumb oiler .It actually works fairly well . Whatever the trick is for the 610 I really don't know besides at one time I had 4 or 5 new .A guy on flea bay who said he had a 1000 of them was hawking them off for $10 a pop .
 
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