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edju1958

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Steve,the consensus is that my new saw is either a 5-10 or a 6-10,which would mean it's a 70cc saw.If the airhead ever decides to ship it,I may get it toward the end of the upcoming week.The way she ships saws is ridiculous,the bar & chain are left on the saw & the box is made around it.She has no idea of how to take them off.Because of her inept ability to remove the bar & chain from a saw that I'd purchased just 1 yr.ago,the front handle bracket got broken off from a Remington saw I bought from her.Needless to say the saw went right back.
 

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Steve,the consensus is that my new saw is either a 5-10 or a 6-10,which would mean it's a 70cc saw.If the airhead ever decides to ship it,I may get it toward the end of the upcoming week.The way she ships saws is ridiculous,the bar & chain are left on the saw & the box is made around it.She has no idea of how to take them off.Because of her inept ability to remove the bar & chain from a saw that I'd purchased just 1 yr.ago,the front handle bracket got broken off from a Remington saw I bought from her.Needless to say the saw went right back.


Has the wrong air filter for a 5-10. But the correct colors for a 6-10. To tell if it's a 54cc or 70cc real easy is by the bottom cylinder fins. If they are flush with the bottom of the muffler duct, it's 70cc. If they are about 5/16" shorter than the muffler duct, 54cc. Trick I used when I was buying these saws left and right years ago from uneducated sellers.
 

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Has the wrong air filter for a 5-10. But the correct colors for a 6-10. To tell if it's a 54cc or 70cc real easy is by the bottom cylinder fins. If they are flush with the bottom of the muffler duct, it's 70cc. If they are about 5/16" shorter than the muffler duct, 54cc. Trick I used when I was buying these saws left and right years ago from uneducated sellers.

How are you seeing the bottom of the cylinder and muffler with the shroud in place?
Or are you looking at it from the side? Does this apply to later years?
 

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How are you seeing the bottom of the cylinder and muffler with the shroud in place?
Or are you looking at it from the side? Does this apply to later years?

There is a major difference in the cylinder shrouds between the two. And yes, you can see it from the muffler side as well. This really only works on the early saws with the ducted muffler. When I get home I'll post some pictures that will really make this clear.
 

edju1958

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The easiest way to tell if it's a 54cc or a 70cc is to take the air filter cover off & look at the ID tag in the carb box,if there is a tag.But,the fin length difference is a great option I never knew about.I'm sure other guys here never knew that difference either.

While we're on the subject - why the hell would Mac make 2 completely different saw models & use the same numbers?Examples:610 & 6-10,3-10 & 310,5-10 & 510,110 & 1-10,& the list goes on.t
 

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The easiest way to tell if it's a 54cc or a 70cc is to take the air filter cover off & look at the ID tag in the carb box,if there is a tag.But,the fin length difference is a great option I never knew about.I'm sure other guys here never knew that difference either.

While we're on the subject - why the hell would Mac make 2 completely different saw models & use the same numbers?Examples:610 & 6-10,3-10 & 310,5-10 & 510,110 & 1-10,& the list goes on.t


Marketing. Makes people feel better buying something they are familiar with.


After all, A 1975 ford f150 is no where even in the same ball park as a 2021 f150.
 

Al Smith

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The carb doesn't always tell the model .That pic of mine on Mike Acres web site is parts from 3 carbs .You have to remember these things have been around for a long while and thus a lot of tinkering might have been done to them over the years .
 

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Ok so here is a 70cc saw cylinder shroud vs a 54cc engine with a ducted muffler shroud. You can see how the 54cc shroud hugs the shorter cylinder fins and the void in the bottom. Also it fits the flywheel shroud much nicer without bulging out to fit the larger fins.


16350924342267983988435274476296.jpg 16350926038886402714264214230094.jpg



Keep in mind this only works with ducted mufflers with dsp valve cylinders. The pancake muffler on the 54cc and 57cc engines use the 70cc shroud to encase the muffler and the muffler is used to direct the cooling air close to the fins.


16350925283618402387143106481557.jpg

The later 57cc poppit type cylinders that use the ducted muffler like all the 10-10s models that I have had my hands on use the larger 70cc shroud with a giant air gap under the cylinder fins. Don't know why they would do that other than for assembly line simplicity.
 

edju1958

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I pulled the oil tank off the seized 1-70 to see what I'd be dealing with on the good 1-70 & 1-75 with the seized oilers.That poor seized 1-70 must've been sitting for decades & part of that time was spent sitting outside.The plunger piston was seized in place.My neighbor had stopped by & he helped me out with it.We put some WD40 on top of the piston & let it weep down in for a bit,then tapped on the plunger piston & it went down,but stayed there.We put some heat on it with a propane torch & the heat made the spring expand & the piston popped right out.I had taken the set screw out where the smaller spring & ball were earlier.That piston was covered in rust.The O ring was still surprisingly good.That was my "test subject",Lol.I had a helluva time getting the oil cap & the fuel cap off the saw.I thought sure as shootin' that the caps were gonna break,but they didn't.The O ring on the oil cap is toast & the vent in the fuel cap is toast as well.I'll get some pics of them on here.
 

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This can be a problem, 20211024_130336.jpg
Heres an option for the lead wire. On top is a regular 8mm fiber wire , not for use on a saw.
Then a copper core(metal strand) 7mm , thats what i like to use .
Then the factory one.20211024_130952.jpg
The original boot split trying to get the new wire through. 20211024_132117.jpg
Thats an accel race clip style plug snap, it has a very positive clip when pushed on the plug.20211024_132615.jpg
I used gorilla super glue on the coil/lead connection.
The loose wire ended up frying the Nova chip so it got replaced as well.
I think yellow is the right color choice.
ProMac55
 

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Ok so here is a 70cc saw cylinder shroud vs a 54cc engine with a ducted muffler shroud. You can see how the 54cc shroud hugs the shorter cylinder fins and the void in the bottom. Also it fits the flywheel shroud much nicer without bulging out to fit the larger fins.


View attachment 313559 View attachment 313561



Keep in mind this only works with ducted mufflers with dsp valve cylinders. The pancake muffler on the 54cc and 57cc engines use the 70cc shroud to encase the muffler and the muffler is used to direct the cooling air close to the fins.


View attachment 313560

The later 57cc poppit type cylinders that use the ducted muffler like all the 10-10s models that I have had my hands on use the larger 70cc shroud with a giant air gap under the cylinder fins. Don't know why they would do that other than for assembly line simplicity.
I kind of see it , needs camera flash! My eyes are aging faster then the rest of me.
 

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Its amazing how quiet the 800 is compared to the 55!
28" skip .
Does the 800 have the reed muffler?
I put a skip tooth chain on my PM700 when I foumd the 28" Mac bar for it. Wasnt sure how it would like full comp.
I just didnt like how grabby the skip tooth was, so I said heck with it and got a loop of full comp. Could always shorten and run on a 20" bar.
I shouldnt have worried. It pulls it just fine, and cuts a lot faster!
That 800 shouldnt have any problems at all with full comp chain, just dont run the Archer chain.:)
That stuff stretches like a slinky.:confused:
 

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Does the 800 have the reed muffler?
I put a skip tooth chain on my PM700 when I foumd the 28" Mac bar for it. Wasnt sure how it would like full comp.
I just didnt like how grabby the skip tooth was, so I said heck with it and got a loop of full comp. Could always shorten and run on a 20" bar.
I shouldnt have worried. It pulls it just fine, and cuts a lot faster!
That 800 shouldnt have any problems at all with full comp chain, just dont run the Archer chain.:)
That stuff stretches like a slinky.:confused:

The 800 has a muffler like the 610 ,it's just a square port with a screen over it.
I'm running an 8 pin rim sprocket on the 800 so skip pulls nicely. It'll still pull the full comp fine but I used this for some huge oak last time it was ran.
Yeah ,I pretty much have exhausted my experience with the Archer stuff , the chain is cheaply designed and the bar rails on the 800 are wearing like a bar thats been used for years , not the 10xs I've used it.
 

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The 800 has a muffler like the 610 ,it's just a square port with a screen over it.
I'm running an 8 pin rim sprocket on the 800 so skip pulls nicely. It'll still pull the full comp fine but I used this for some huge oak last time it was ran.
Yeah ,I pretty much have exhausted my experience with the Archer stuff , the chain is cheaply designed and the bar rails on the 800 are wearing like a bar thats been used for years , not the 10xs I've used it.
Ive got an Archer 20" bar on the 1010S.
Havent used it that much. Running Stihl chain. I keep the Archer chain just for stumps and really dirty stuff.
We'll see how that bar holds up. Gonna be using it for some firewood as soon as it cools off just a bit.
 

edju1958

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I got the oilers working on the 1-70 & the 1-75.The 1-70 I had to pull the oil tank off & the piston was seized.Some WD40 & a little tapping & it was working again.I put it back together half expecting it not to work,but it works great.
The 1-75 was the easiest fix I ever had.I tried several times & it was just plain seized,wou;dn't move a bit.Something told me to try it again beforer I pulled it apart & it started working!
Now the only thiong left to do is pull the carb off the 1-70 & rebuild it,it's a Tilly HL19D.
 
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