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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Al Smith

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fossil

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You might try soaking them in a shallow tray with some Sea Foam motor treatment. Good stuff.

sea foam.jpg
 

heimannm

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I am starting with the ultrasonic cleaner since I have that available here and now. Looking at the piston after it has dried out from the mineral spirits parts washer, it looks like aluminum oxide more than carbon in the grooves, end gap, and on the lands. I may have the opportunity to try several different techniques on this one. I do have spare rings so I don't need to save these, I just need to make sure and preserve the piston as best I can. The piston actually looks better in hand than it appears in the photos.

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Mark
 

Dream

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You might try soaking them in a shallow tray with some Sea Foam motor treatment. Good stuff.

View attachment 285686
I just had good luck getting some stuck parts free with a little heat and a "quench" with Kano Aerokroil.
Heat, spray, cool with a quick water dip, repeat.
When they let go, blow dry and coat with oil or Kroil.
Again, not much heat at once.
Rings and piston are used to temperature changes, just dont want too much too fast.
 

Bigmac

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I am starting with the ultrasonic cleaner since I have that available here and now. Looking at the piston after it has dried out from the mineral spirits parts washer, it looks like aluminum oxide more than carbon in the grooves, end gap, and on the lands. I may have the opportunity to try several different techniques on this one. I do have spare rings so I don't need to save these, I just need to make sure and preserve the piston as best I can. The piston actually looks better in hand than it appears in the photos.

View attachment 285688

View attachment 285689

View attachment 285690

Mark
Mark, I would personally try a combo of aluminum brightening acid, soaking in a shadow tub. Then soaking in evapo-rust. , the acid will neutralize the aluminum oxide and the evapo-rust will get the rings.

be careful to not soak to long in acid.
 

Steve

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Mark, I would personally try a combo of aluminum brightening acid, soaking in a shadow tub. Then soaking in evapo-rust. , the acid will neutralize the aluminum oxide and the evapo-rust will get the rings.

be careful to not soak to long in acid.


I was thinking evapo-rust too!

I just had good luck getting some stuck parts free with a little heat and a "quench" with Kano Aerokroil.
Heat, spray, cool with a quick water dip, repeat.
When they let go, blow dry and coat with oil or Kroil.
Again, not much heat at once.
Rings and piston are used to temperature changes, just dont want too much too fast.


This!
 

JT78

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I am a big fan of PB Blaster or also Kroil the Kroil is awesome but more expensive. I've gotten some really stuck metal unstuck with both of the 2. Kroil is also one of the best oils for firearms I've ever found.
 

Al Smith

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I managed to pop the rings on a piston Kevin sent me in about 10 minutes just using heat and even saved the rings a few years ago .If you can find hard enough steel ,like an old screwdriver then grind and shape it like a cape chisel you can often get in through the ring gap .Then it's just pry and wiggle .
On the example of the Partner I did it took a tiny drill bit to create an angle so I could get the pry bar under the ring and it came out 3/4" at a time .I dressed the ring groves with a Dremel using Craytex rounds on an arbor .It would have been much more simple to replace the piston but I'm a tad stubborn about this stuff .Down right bull headed some say . BTW the piston cleaned up like it was new .
 

Al Smith

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I might mention on Kroil for those who don't know .I buy it and WD-40 by the gallon and often times they run a special on it and toss in a can of Aerokroil as an extra perk . I tried tranny fluid and acetone but didn't have much luck . With all the rusty junk I have I use a lot of penetrating oil of some sort including good old kerosene .
 

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I have three large bins full of nos labelled McCulloch parts from buying out a dealer a few weeks ago. Is there an easy way to look up part numbers to see what things are?
No chainsaw body or handle parts, cranks and only one smallish cylinder kit but probably about 1000-1200 parts with part numbers.
Same with Homelite, Briggs, tecumsah, Jonsered (inc NOS plastics), oregon, herr, wico, niehoff, stens, napa, couple hundred name brand spark plugs, GB, weedeater, ryobi, a little husky and Stihl, poulan, poulan pro, John Deere, even an assortment of belts, spindles, blades etc.
 

Maintenance Chief

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Seafoam does make a product called "Deep Creep" its not cheap but I've used it on throttle shafts for 60s 70s carburetors and it has always freed them , some I've soaked for months though.
 

heimannm

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DD - just send all the McCulloch parts to me. I will I.D. and catalog them, put them in a safe place until you need them, and even use and/or sell a few along the way to help you keep your inventory down.

If you have any in the 59000-59500 range please let me know.

Mark
 

jacob j.

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I have three large bins full of nos labelled McCulloch parts from buying out a dealer a few weeks ago. Is there an easy way to look up part numbers to see what things are?
No chainsaw body or handle parts, cranks and only one smallish cylinder kit but probably about 1000-1200 parts with part numbers.
Same with Homelite, Briggs, tecumsah, Jonsered (inc NOS plastics), oregon, herr, wico, niehoff, stens, napa, couple hundred name brand spark plugs, GB, weedeater, ryobi, a little husky and Stihl, poulan, poulan pro, John Deere, even an assortment of belts, spindles, blades etc.

I'll call dibs on behalf of @cuinrearview on all vintage John Deere edger blades, and on behalf of @huskihl for all vintage bump-feed Homelite string trimmer heads.
 

Al Smith

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The Mac parts like pistons, rings etc there is a chart on them .The rest to me is a guessing game . If you have the parts numbers such as packaged parts old stock makes it easier and if not it's enny. meany mighty moe .Some parts depending on the series might interchange and some not .--Like I've said many times restoration of any thing is not for everyone .
 

Al Smith

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This flat out works!!
I think my problem was the mixture separated after sitting in a squeeze bottle a long time . I'm not certain if the tranny fluid was Dexron or synthetic . The idea is good being the thinned down tranny oil would be carried with the mix and get into the parts then evaporate leaving just the tranny oil I think .
 
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