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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

fossil

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All I know is LeeHa built the saw I don't plan on touching anything inside unless something breaks. I hear he is a guru when it comes to these.


Great. Here's an easy way to tell if your points are correctly gapped by checking the timing. All you need is to pop the flywheel cover off and an OHM meter.

 

heimannm

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Mrs. Heimann is home, following a rather complicated medication regimen to reduce the inflammation in the pancreas, control her heart rate, and try and reduce the fluid accumulation around her heart and lungs. I will get to be a nurse for a few weeks until she is well enough to have her gallbladder removed.

By the way, I have always had good success with just setting the gap on the points. I generally target 0.019" +/- 0.001" Sometimes I will go a little wider if I am trying to optimize performance or perhaps a little less to tame one down if it has bitten me too many times.

There were also timing tools that McCulloch supplied for the large frame saws and for the PM6/MM models. I didn't find a photo of the LF tool but this is the one for the small saws. You put it on the key on the crankshaft and observe the position when the points open (ohmmeter goes to "0").

DSC01279.JPG

Mark
 

Al Smith

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[QUOTE="heimannm, post: 1210858, member: 714"

By the way, I have always had good success with just setting the gap on the points. I generally target 0.019" +/- 0.001" Sometimes I will go a little wider if I am trying to optimize performance or perhaps a little less to tame one down if it has bitten me too many times.



Mark[/QUOTE] That right there is why I prefer points over solid state .You can adjust the ignition timing a tad bit with just the points gap .--old school old guy ----
 

Al Smith

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Another somewhat interesting tid bit of info .The 44 series McCulloch saws had external ignition points that could be adjusted without removing the flywheel .They ran from a push rod from the crankshaft .As per the owners manual those you set with with the cellophane from a package of cigarettes which would be about 1 thou of an inch .They also had air vane governors limiting the max RPM's .Now a story .
I have a super 44A which is 87 cc's and the rating ,which is not accurate gives it 6.5 HP ,obvious not quite that much .Either that engine or a 1-70 morphed into the MC 10 kart engine which was very successful .Mine had the air paddle missing so I just bypassed it direct to the throttle trigger and set the points a tad wider, maybe 10-12 thou .For something made 1959-1960 that thing will get with it .It's one of those saws that only gets a run every so often just to show what some of those really old school saws are capable of .
 

fossil

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Mrs. Heimann is home, following a rather complicated medication regimen to reduce the inflammation in the pancreas, control her heart rate, and try and reduce the fluid accumulation around her heart and lungs. I will get to be a nurse for a few weeks until she is well enough to have her gallbladder removed.


Mark

That's great to hear Mark!
 

fossil

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Here's the timing tools I have. I've used the one on the left a few times when assembling projects that came in a box. If any of you guys want to borrow one or both of these, let me know.


Jacb,

What do you line the degree wheel points up with on the armature?
 

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Not sure about guru but i have rebuilt a few of them 797's. Others here are just as knowledgeable or more so.
Is that saw completely rebuilt with new piston? Did i sell it to you or did you get it from someone else?
Bought it from Ambru84 saw runs like a top I just wanted to make sure I didn't have it too lean so I posted the video for re assurance it was rich enough. I'm used to some of my ported saws that turn 14-15k.
 

Maintenance Chief

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Here's the timing tools I have. I've used the one on the left a few times when assembling projects that came in a box. If any of you guys want to borrow one or both of these, let me know.

Are those totally flat steel?
 

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I'm working on several Mini Macs (a 6 and several 1x0 series) and they all are requiring carb rebuilds (Zama RB19's I believe), as the diaphragms are stiff and not pumping/metering fuel correctly. One thing that I did not see in any of the rebuild kits was a replacement aluminum welch plug. What's under the plug? Is it necessary to remove and clean underneath?

If someone has a image as to what is underneath it would help my understanding a bit.
 
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Steve

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I'm working on several Mini Macs (a 6 and several 1x0 series) and they all are requiring carb rebuilds, as the diaphragms are stiff and not pumping/metering fuel correctly. One thing that I did not see in any of the rebuild kits was a replacement aluminum welch plug. What's under the plug? Is it necessary to remove and clean underneath?

If someone has a image as to what is underneath it would help my understanding a bit.

The high speed check valve. Would be a good idea to replace it while there. They do not come in the kit and are available separately.
 

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The high speed check valve. Would be a good idea to replace it while there. They do not come in the kit and are available separately.

Do you have a good source recommendation?
 

heimannm

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Does anyone have a good method for getting rings unstuck? That seems to be the most difficult challenge of this one.

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20210303_174355.jpg

Mark
 
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Al Smith

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On those rings what I did on one of the Partner p-100's was heat the piston with an acetylene turbo torch which doing that and drilling the rings off a little bit at a time got them off .However using that method the rings obviously were destroyed . That was the most aggressive method because none of the others worked but keep in mind I could buy new rings as a replacement .
 
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