MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Al Smith]

Here's another thought on types of penetrants .There a chemical product called DMSO often used as a horse liniment for one .In industrial usage on high end gauges etc .
Keep in mind citrus oil which will in effect eat rust .In small amounts it's used for hand cleaner but I'd about bet the juice from a lemon might be better .Fact I've got a stuck Mac super 44 ,which is a back burner project that if and when I get on it I might try it . All I'm interested in is the block anyway .If I can save the whole thing that just makes it better

 

[jacob j.]

I have three large bins full of nos labelled McCulloch parts from buying out a dealer a few weeks ago. Is there an easy way to look up part numbers to see what things are?
No chainsaw body or handle parts, cranks and only one smallish cylinder kit but probably about 1000-1200 parts with part numbers.
Same with Homelite, Briggs, tecumsah, Jonsered (inc NOS plastics), oregon, herr, wico, niehoff, stens, napa, couple hundred name brand spark plugs, GB, weedeater, ryobi, a little husky and Stihl, poulan, poulan pro, John Deere, even an assortment of belts, spindles, blades etc.

Dave - there's not really a single source on the internet for looking up old Mac parts numbers - I'm attaching a couple things that may help.

If we could get you a copy of the old CD that McBob made, that would probably be the best way for you to research the small parts. You can post
pictures of some of the stuff you're curious about and several of us here can probably ID any of those parts.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I think my problem was the mixture separated after sitting in a squeeze bottle a long time . I'm not certain if the tranny fluid was Dexron or synthetic . The idea is good being the thinned down tranny oil would be carried with the mix and get into the parts then evaporate leaving just the tranny oil I think .

There is a limited shelf life if exposed to air. Here's how and why it works as well as it does -- particularly on rust.

 

[fossil]

I have three large bins full of nos labelled McCulloch parts from buying out a dealer a few weeks ago. Is there an easy way to look up part numbers to see what things are?
No chainsaw body or handle parts, cranks and only one smallish cylinder kit but probably about 1000-1200 parts with part numbers.
Same with Homelite, Briggs, tecumsah, Jonsered (inc NOS plastics), oregon, herr, wico, niehoff, stens, napa, couple hundred name brand spark plugs, GB, weedeater, ryobi, a little husky and Stihl, poulan, poulan pro, John Deere, even an assortment of belts, spindles, blades etc.

Dave,

Here's a good interchangeable parts list for some of the the older pre 1964 MACs. The PN's are in order so that should make things easy to look up if you have any of those parts.

 

[Al Smith]

Thanks ,down loaded .

 

[Al Smith]

FWIW I have the Mc Bob (RIP ) CD .I'll take peek at it and see what's there .

 

[jacob j.]

FWIW I have the Mc Bob (RIP ) CD .I'll take peek at it and see what's there .

Al - Can you tell if it's indexed in any way? (Meaning, you could search for part numbers from a central search). I had an old Jonsered CD that someone set-up that way.

 

[Al Smith]

I'll get it out in a short .I'm busy cussing at a Jeep at the moment . I went completely through the brakes maybe 6 years ago and it lost the charge in the master cylinder which is typical of those old systems .They never did have good brakes and didn't change that until much later .They used the same as they did in WW2 and this is a 1965 model CJ 5 .It's a good thing they will only run about 50 MPH down hill with a tail wind .On the other hand they could climb a tree if they could get traction .

 

[Al Smith]

I looked at it and it certainly is much clearer than my micro fiche set . Old Bob did a good job .However other than pistons rings etc it really didn't give interchangeability on any thing I could see .He could have made several CDs also for all I know .

 

[Al Smith]

It all started maybe 12-15 years ago .Bob,Magnus ,Lewis Branden and others and myself tried to get a repository of IPL's for every chainsaw ever made .I sent Bob a bunch of stuff and nearly overloaded Mike Acres server with Stihl IPL's . Stihl evidently whined and cried about it so that stopped .On that we just stay under the radar since pizz on them .Something about intellectual property or something .What the H does that mean--top secret ,good grief .I'm a mechanic , collector ,restorer and relatively good electrician not an attorney .Well bar room lawyer and BS artist, guilty of that .

 

[heimannm]

I found this one on eBay last week, arrived one day later...now I have it cleaned up and on display. Meanwhile I am alternately heating the BP-1 piston and letting it soak in Sea Foam trying to get the rings unstuck.



I am looking for a cosmetically nice PM340 (the one with the ugliest rear handle ever) to try and round out the 300 Series collection.

Mark

 

[Absolution]

Modified a new bar for the 700.

It came with a chain so I'm going to run it's use then swap the tip for 404.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Modified a new bar for the 700.

It came with a chain so I'm going to run it's use then swap the tip for 404.

View attachment 286178

You need a spike for that thing?
I've used .404 on 2 of my 700s and I think it's definitely a good combination for bucking up some big loblolly pine.

 

[Absolution]

You need a spike for that thing?
I've used .404 on 2 of my 700s and I think it's definitely a good combination for bucking up some big loblolly pine.

That was the side cover from that 10-10. I had took off the cover of the 700 walked away then came back and for god knows what reason I kept looking over it.

I do have new dogs for the 10-10's side cover just need some bolts.

 

[Al Smith]

Speaking of which I was given a Mac 10 series bar,32" 50 thou slot with a .404 sprocket nose .I assume it was a west coaster which I changed the nose to 3/8 " ..404 was never used in this neck of the woods on anything less than 90 plus cc, hardwoods you know ,hard .---Let me qualify that, yes it was on things like the 250 Macs etc .I'm not so sure .375 was very popular then in the 60's .

 

[Mac131]

Hey everyone...new to the site. Was wondering if you could help identify this odd port in the top of my 10-10 cylinder. It isn't threaded, so I don't think it is for a decomp valve. I can see the piston moving inside...this is the only one that I have seen with these spots actually machined out. They look factory. It appears to be an early 10-10 with both sides of the crank being keyed and the vent hole in the oil tank machined out. I have a pic of it next to another 10-10 that doesn't have these machined out.

Curious to know what you think.

Jeff

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

If they're not threaded, and it is indeed a 54cc cylinder, someone evidently drilled those locations for a decomp (next to the plug) and a cleanout (diagonal on the side). You may want to measure the cylinder bore to see what you actually have, there. 1.75" will be a standard 10-10 cylinder. Regardless, you have little choice but to thread the openings and either add the proper parts or just plug the holes with whatever hardware if you intend to use the cylinder.

 

[Steve]

Hey everyone...new to the site. Was wondering if you could help identify this odd port in the top of my 10-10 cylinder. It isn't threaded, so I don't think it is for a decomp valve. I can see the piston moving inside...this is the only one that I have seen with these spots actually machined out. They look factory. It appears to be an early 10-10 with both sides of the crank being keyed and the vent hole in the oil tank machined out. I have a pic of it next to another 10-10 that doesn't have these machined out.

Curious to know what you think.

Jeff

That port is indeed a early 54cc DSP valve cylinder. (McCullochs de comp). You are missing the valve. The valve works with a lever and spring on the lower tank half/rear handle. Your other cylinder is the later poppet style decomp valve.

 

[Mac131]

Very interesting. Do you possibly have a PN reference? I plan on using the head, so I am trying to figure out my best option. I do worry about losing compression unless I plug the hole all the way to the inner wall or else find the appropriate valve and throw it in. Any ideas?

Thanks for the quick replies.

 

[Mac131]

If they're not threaded, and it is indeed a 54cc cylinder, someone evidently drilled those locations for a decomp (next to the plug) and a cleanout (diagonal on the side). You may want to measure the cylinder bore to see what you actually have, there. 1.75" will be a standard 10-10 cylinder. Regardless, you have little choice but to thread the openings and either add the proper parts or just plug the holes with whatever hardware if you intend to use the cylinder.

I'm going to measure it after I do my port timing and have all the measurements. I will report back shortly. Thanks for the help!