MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Dream]

Not to get in the middle of you two but, I have heard more horror stories of sugar creek supplies than I have fingers and toes. That is enough to keep me from doing business with him.

Now, on to other things more pressing.

I believe I accused Mark of being a McCulloch poser? Pretty serious offence I think?

Now it seems to me that Mr Heimann wouldnt be one to engage in the type of juvenile banter we enjoy, but I bet hes got a plan to get even.
Imagine if you were to be caught in a pair of shorts, and someone mentioned that it seemed the backs of your legs bore strange welp-like marks that had what appeared to be Mcculloch logos. Possibly from a leather belt.
Be on the lookout for an F-150 with a camper shell and the rear suspension sagging from local saw purchases in your neighborhood...

 

[fossil]

I know nothing...

Do you have a 595 Mark? The MAC collector I know up here scrounged one from someone or maybe went to a seller in Belgium.

 

[heimannm]

I do not have a 595 or 295, the euro versions of the 550 and Super 250.

If Steve reads this, perhaps he can fill in the blanks for a way to make things right.

Mark

 

[Simpsonsawshop]

So I went ahead with a Tillotson swap on the Super 250 until the parts for the flatback show up. I pulled an HL63D and the necessary adapter and linkages from a parts 1-52 I had here. I opened it up and it was remarkably clean inside but the metering lever was set way too high and I went ahead and put new diaphragms in it as a matter of coarse. Popoff pressure was right about 8psi after the rebuild with some slight bleed down but acceptable compared to the other Tillys I've done.
The thing will not draw fuel!!!! There is fuel in the line at the carb and it is getting fuel into the pump part but nothing in the metering chamber. How is the lever supposed to be set? It should be flush with the chamber floor correct? Or am I having a brain cramp and it should be level with the gasket surface?
Also, it does fire on prime and it started and ran with the flatback but it had crap floating around in the carb causing it to run erraric.
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[Lee H]

Do you have the correct mounting gaskets where the pulse hole lines up. Don't ask me
how i know. Yes i did it on a 797 with the wrong factory Mac gasket. It would run but
run right out of fuel.

The lever should be flush with the floor not the gasket surface.

 

[Simpsonsawshop]

Do you have the correct mounting gaskets where the pulse hole lines up. Don't ask me
how i know. Yes i did it on a 797 with the wrong factory Mac gasket. It would run but
run right out of fuel.

Yes, I checked and double checked. Even went so far as to spray carb clean through both gaskets, the adapter, and into the carb to make sure all impulse ports where clear.

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[Lee H]

Fuel pump diaphragm and gasket in correctly. Just a thought.

 

[fossil]

So I went ahead with a Tillotson swap on the Super 250 until the parts for the flatback show up. I pulled an HL63D and the necessary adapter and linkages from a parts 1-52 I had here. I opened it up and it was remarkably clean inside but the metering lever was set way too high and I went ahead and put new diaphragms in it as a matter of coarse. Popoff pressure was right about 8psi after the rebuild with some slight bleed down but acceptable compared to the other Tillys I've done.
The thing will not draw fuel!!!! There is fuel in the line at the carb and it is getting fuel into the pump part but nothing in the metering chamber. How is the lever supposed to be set? It should be flush with the chamber floor correct? Or am I having a brain cramp and it should be level with the gasket surface?
Also, it does fire on prime and it started and ran with the flatback but it had crap floating around in the carb causing it to run erraric.
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Do you have the correct mounting gaskets where the pulse hole lines up. Don't ask me
how i know. Yes i did it on a 797 with the wrong factory Mac gasket. It would run but
run right out of fuel.

The lever should be flush with the floor not the gasket surface.

I'm having issues with an HL-63G I've put on a 380. It does pull fuel but will not run. Check valve is OK.

I've had the saw apart looking for issues but can't find any. I think it's a carb issue as it passes all the other tests and rev's up nicely on prime.

Not used to issues on the few HL's I have.

 

[Simpsonsawshop]

So I went ahead with a Tillotson swap on the Super 250 until the parts for the flatback show up. I pulled an HL63D and the necessary adapter and linkages from a parts 1-52 I had here. I opened it up and it was remarkably clean inside but the metering lever was set way too high and I went ahead and put new diaphragms in it as a matter of coarse. Popoff pressure was right about 8psi after the rebuild with some slight bleed down but acceptable compared to the other Tillys I've done.
The thing will not draw fuel!!!! There is fuel in the line at the carb and it is getting fuel into the pump part but nothing in the metering chamber. How is the lever supposed to be set? It should be flush with the chamber floor correct? Or am I having a brain cramp and it should be level with the gasket surface?
Also, it does fire on prime and it started and ran with the flatback but it had crap floating around in the carb causing it to run erraric.
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This saw is frustrating me. I rebuilt a second Tilly this afternoon, this one is an HL63E. It is pretty much acting the same although I did get this one to actually run, it is starving for fuel. It will only run on choke even with the needles 3 turns out. If I didn't know better I would think the saw has a massive air leak. Not sure where to go from here. I've never had a problem with the hi speed check on one of these carbs, also seems weird that 2 of these carbs are acting similar. It is worth noting, I am only changing gaskets and diaphragms because those are the kits I have on hand. I also ordered a complete RK88HL kit that will be here tomorrow.

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[PogoInTheWoods]

If I didn't know better I would think the saw has a massive air leak.

You've leak tested it and found no leaks?

 

[Simpsonsawshop]

You've leak tested it and found no leaks?

No, but it ran half decent with the flatback. I could cut with it but every now and then it would foul and I'd have to hit the choke a couple times and it would clear up and run fine for a while again.
I may have to get my block off plates out and leak test it though.

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[Simpsonsawshop]

I haven't leak tested it, but it ran half decent with the flatback. I could cut with it but every now and then it would foul and I'd have to hit the choke a couple times and it would clear up and run fine for a while again.
I may have to get my block off plates out and leak test it though.

 

[Egg Shooter]

I tried that brake fluid thing. Maybe I was too impatient? One weak soaked and it was still hard as a rock!

Wintergreen oil and water. Boil rubber in it. Comes back to life.

 

[Al Smith]

FWIW way back then they used wintergreen oil as a rust preventative . .I inherited my dads machinists tool chest that was used as far back as my great grand father and I can still smell traces of it .That thing is well over 100 years old as well as some of the tools within .

 

[Egg Shooter]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/restoring-hard-rubber-parts-unbelievable-results.791355/

This is where I got my information. I actually used a pain relief gel on two stiff Homlite Super 2 saw oil pump diaphragms. It contains the chemical in wintergreen oil. After a couple weeks they were soft and restored pumping action to move bar oil.

 

[Al Smith]

On the subject of main of charge/metering diaphragms I think if a person could find the material to make them it could be done .The thinest buna n sheet I've found is 1/32" thick which I would think would be too thick .This I do know the smaller the carb it seems the thinner the material .Those for a weed wacker are real thin .
Thinking out loud although I've never done so in the case of that carb I hate ,Walbro MAC it might be such a thing the metering diaphragm from a Tilley model HD used on Harley sportsters might have enough material to cut down and use .It's only a thought and likely the rebuild kits would cost a kings ransom .

 

[Simpsonsawshop]

On the subject of main of charge/metering diaphragms I think if a person could find the material to make them it could be done .The thinest buna n sheet I've found is 1/32" thick which I would think would be too thick .This I do know the smaller the carb it seems the thinner the material .Those for a weed wacker are real thin .
Thinking out loud although I've never done so in the case of that carb I hate ,Walbro MAC it might be such a thing the metering diaphragm from a Tilley model HD used on Harley sportsters might have enough material to cut down and use .It's only a thought and likely the rebuild kits would cost a kings ransom .

There is a guy onnthe Mac Facebook groups who had made his own for the big old 50s Era Macs. Not real pretty but supposedly work.

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[Al Smith]

Okay now another brain storm, brain fart whatever .So this obsolete Walbro MAC has a large diaphragm what would happen if you used a large gasket punch to punch out the working portion of a diaphragm from a Tillotson model HL or HR and likewise punch out the stiff old diaphragm .Glue the replacement in using Loctite 401 . That stuff will glue Buna n just like the entire assembly came that way .I used it on the intake boot of one of the concrete saws .
I would think it should work but you most likely will need to adjust the lever setting .

 

[northwest saws]

Okay now another brain storm, brain fart whatever .So this obsolete Walbro MAC has a large diaphragm what would happen if you used a large gasket punch to punch out the working portion of a diaphragm from a Tillotson model HL or HR and likewise punch out the stiff old diaphragm .Glue the replacement in using Loctite 401 . That stuff will glue Buna n just like the entire assembly came that way .I used it on the intake boot of one of the concrete saws .
I would think it should work but you most likely will need to adjust the lever setting .

As long as you can trust the adhesive to hold then it seems like a decent method. I just ordered some nitrile .3mm diaphragm material to make my own. Need to make one for the model 99.

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[northwest saws]

Well folks, I finished the Super 55. I am super thrilled with how it turned out and am really looking forward to taking it to some Doug fir this weekend. I did a full overhaul on it, new skf bearings and seals. New old stock .030 piston and did a little port work on it too. The saw sure has some snort, I love the sound too!

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