MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Al Smith]

Actually not the 125 with the offset might have been 2.5 advance.It started okay most of the time .I left the off set key in it and adjusted the points still get maybe 2.5 or 3 ahead at the most .Took me a lot of farting around with an ohm meter to get it though .The one thing I did not want is that big engine trying to tear my arm off with a kick back . I had an 084 Stihl come back on me and I could predict the weather for about two years following that event .

 

[Bigmac]

A

Actually not the 125 with the offset might have been 2.5 advance.It started okay most of the time .I left the off set key in it and adjusted the points still get maybe 2.5 or 3 ahead at the most .Took me a lot of farting around with an ohm meter to get it though .The one thing I did not want is that big engine trying to tear my arm off with a kick back . I had an 084 Stihl come back on me and I could predict the weather for about two years following that event .

Al, with the oem 5° flywheel and 2.5° offset key that makes 7.5° of advance with the chip. I have set up a degree wheel and ohm meter and tested several 125 crankshafts. The most advanced I could get the points was 27° at a .021 gap, the offset key has no effect on timing with points unless the points go maverick and float, but that will also have no effect on starting.
I also have a crankshaft with a worn lobe and could only get a maximum of .018 points gap, and that gave me 21° of total timing. A chip was a good way of getting more timing. I talked with terry Ives and he feels 27° is the correct timing for a kart motor or 125. And for what is worth he does like chips either.
Nos points are getting harder to find and on eBay they want a too much. I would like to find a source for capacitors, from what I have read they are a great fix. But if you have a worn lobe on the crank, you kinda out of luck with points.

 

[Al Smith]

I'm not so certain the condenser is all that important because it's only function life is to stop the points from flashing over .

 

[jacob j.]

The 304 i believe is a smooth bore race carb like the 360 i have on my problem saw.
The 304 i have is broken at the mounting flange. I think it is one i got from Jacob a
few years ago. If you want it i can send it your way. I don't think i will ever use it.

I got that and some others from an old-time karter in Indiana that had a real bad crash in 2005. He gave me a bunch of broken carbs - you got one and I sent one to Larry Dennis when he was still around. Larry welded the
body on one for me and it turned out good.

Thanks, I think with that advice I will try the 070 hl324, it’s a 1” bore 13/16 Venturi, and you can get a genuine Tillotson of $50-55. It’s a little smaller, and that’s probably good for a 797

The 324 is a good carb and reliable - that's what I plan on running on my 1-70/Mc-91b hotsaw.

 

[Dream]

Nice lineup, you going to get any video?

Sorry, no vid yos.
Havent figured all that out yet. Just posting pics. Anyway, day got cut short. Work called, and now I'm outta town til at least Thursday night. I was able to get two trees on the ground. The PM6A went on strike. Recoil pulley separated second pull. Had to use the Stihl 009L.
The PM700 with 28" bar and full comp did awesome! Ate that pine like a fat kid on a bag of Cheetos. Pines were around 24" where I cut. No bog, just chewed thru. Even faster than I was hoping.
Gonna try it in some hardwood. I have a Water Oak crotch that'll more than bury that bar, and its gnarly.

 

[Dream]

Aha I spy an S and K 1/4" socket set .I have one exactly like that

I hope the latches aren't broken on yours too.

I dont have the original ratchet with that set anymore either. The other one walked away one day when I still carried the set on my service truck. It had my deep well 10mm on it at the time, so theres a Kobalt hiding in its place. Cant remember what ratchet I have. It was one I had in the shop toolbox.

 

[Steve]

Ok, oiler problems in the SP81.... here is what I found. On the manual oiler, we have an improper mix of parts. It has the thick flange oil pickup line used in conjunction with a thin gasket effectively trapping the check disc. I have options here, I have another manual pump with a thick gasket and I have a pickup line with the thin flange so one way or another I will get that sorted.
On the auto oiler, it had the plastic pump in it and it is missing the plug in the bottom of the outlet channel. Can I just epoxy that hole shut? I also have an aluminum body pump but it is missing the spring and check ball unfortunately. Does anyone have a good used pump they would part with?
Thanks guys.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Got you covered Kevin. You will have to use the plunger and spring from your old pump.

 

[Al Smith]

On the 1/4" drive set I have almost all of it intact .I did buy another ratchet then found the original with a 10 MM deep on it .I have a bad tendency of laying things down and forgetting what I've done with them .Also referenced to as absent minded which does not improve with age .You just buy more stuff to lose .It all comes back eventually .

 

[Dream]

On the 1/4" drive set I have almost all of it intact .I did buy another ratchet then found the original with a 10 MM deep on it .I have a bad tendency of laying things down and forgetting what I've done with them .Also referenced to as absent minded which does not improve with age .You just buy more stuff to lose .It all comes back eventually .

Bring back my 10 mm deep socket dang it!

 

[Dream]

Also understand about tje "sometimers". I think its so we get more excercise looking for things. Like glasses. You know, the ones on my face. Also keys. Usually in my pocket.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I'm not so certain the condenser is all that important because it's only function life is to stop the points from flashing over .

I know adhesive is not correct, I don't really use the chips if I can help it ,I mostly just use them to test a points coil. But of the 2 I use for testing 1 Oregon and 1 Atom they both require that the body of the chip be grounded too the body of the saw or at least thats how I interpreted the instructions and thats why there's a screw hole in it.
Possibly installing the part correctly would result in proper functionality.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Sorry, no vid yos.
Havent figured all that out yet. Just posting pics. Anyway, day got cut short. Work called, and now I'm outta town til at least Thursday night. I was able to get two trees on the ground. The PM6A went on strike. Recoil pulley separated second pull. Had to use the Stihl 009L.
The PM700 with 28" bar and full comp did awesome! Ate that pine like a fat kid on a bag of Cheetos. Pines were around 24" where I cut. No bog, just chewed thru. Even faster than I was hoping.
Gonna try it in some hardwood. I have a Water Oak crotch that'll more than bury that bar, and its gnarly.
View attachment 239341 View attachment 239342 View attachment 239343

I don't care what anybody says about a Pro Mac 700 they are a great saw and will hang with almost any modern saw, I have heard many times that the 7-10 is a more powerful saw but I love the 700 and when you buddy tells you his saw is faster just lean down on the 700 and it still cuts!

 

[Dream]

I don't care what anybody says about a Pro Mac 700 they are a great saw and will hang with almost any modern saw, I have heard many times that the 7-10 is a more powerful saw but I love the 700 and when you buddy tells you his saw is faster just lean down on the 700 and it still cuts!

Yep. I have a 700 and a 7-10A.
I like the 7-10 for quick down and dirty stuff. I have a 20" bar on it. It handles good, and sounds the best out of all my Macs. I want to put the 28" bar from the 700 on it and see how it handles it. That 700 just has gobs of torque. Havent tried to stall it with the full comp chain yet, but it ate pine this morning like it wasnt even there.

 

[simsponsawshop]

Got you covered Kevin. You will have to use the plunger and spring from your old pump.

View attachment 239344 View attachment 239345

You're the man!!!!!geez, you must have piles of parts!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Simpsonsawshop]

Just realized I was posting under my old screen name again lol. Confusing myself, must be getting old!!! Lol

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Steve]

You're the man!!!!!geez, you must have piles of parts!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I have a bunch of junk from over the years. People have helped me out so i help others out. Thats the way it should work!

Ill get them sent that way Thursday.

 

[Al Smith]

You have to remember on that damned Atom Arc I mentioned ,it came that way when I got that saw from northern Cal from flea bay .I didn't do it .Fact didn't know it even had a trigger until until it stopped running one day .It rattled that thing off and broke all the wires .It's hard to say how old that thing was .
A 125c uses the same coil as a 10 series not the large coil like a 250 .Weather a solid state coil from something like a 700 would work or not I have no clue .
I also know how a points system works and what it takes to advance the timing but I'm not going to argue about it .I will say this though very rarely does a points system fail on a McCulloch .Normal if it fails the problem will be on the low voltage side of the circuit ,points or condenser .

 

[Dream]

Been lucky with Mac ignitions. That 7-10 I got out of a trash pile had been in the rain for years. Still had spark. Didnt even clean the flywheel magnets.

 

[Al Smith]

A story about that too only it was a solid state coil .One of my 700's was given to me after being rescued from a trash transfer station .No recoil ,hung tight as the bulls azz at fly time .I gave the wd-40-Kroil treatment,never tore it down and after about week it freed up .Recoil from another 700 that was needled,no sparky .Replaced the coil ,runs just fine now .Sat the bad coil on a shelf in the house and damned if once it dried out it and worked again .Gave it a coat of Glytol and it's on another saw now. .
The only complete failure of any Mac coil I've ever had was on a PM 610 I bought for my son from flea bay on the cheap .The saw looked then and still does nearly brand new .Original Mac branded chain that had never been filed .I had a couple of coils so getting it going was no problem .

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Sorry, no vid yos.
Havent figured all that out yet. Just posting pics. Anyway, day got cut short. Work called, and now I'm outta town til at least Thursday night. I was able to get two trees on the ground. The PM6A went on strike. Recoil pulley separated second pull. Had to use the Stihl 009L.
The PM700 with 28" bar and full comp did awesome! Ate that pine like a fat kid on a bag of Cheetos. Pines were around 24" where I cut. No bog, just chewed thru. Even faster than I was hoping.
Gonna try it in some hardwood. I have a Water Oak crotch that'll more than bury that bar, and its gnarly.
View attachment 239341 View attachment 239342 View attachment 239343

Does the golf course get mad when you return the cart full of noddels and bark?