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Al Smith

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Perhaps of interest or not .I have two Mac 125's one with a 7 pin and one with an 8 pin .404 .I find very little difference in power .The 2100S Homelite in my avatar only came with an 8 pin .404 from the factory .
 

Bigmac

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Perhaps of interest or not .I have two Mac 125's one with a 7 pin and one with an 8 pin .404 .I find very little difference in power .The 2100S Homelite in my avatar only came with an 8 pin .404 from the factory .
My stock 125c came to me 8 pin 404 36”bar and the 797 had a 7 pin 404. My 797 isn’t super fresh and felt good with the 7 pin and aggressive 404. Same chain on the stock 125 8pin was just on the edge, couldn’t really dog it in. This 101 is carrying 2000-3000 more rpm in the cut than my stock 125 and can dog in and lean in on the cut. It honestly feels like it has nearly twice the power of my stock 125c, the extra rpm really speeds up the cut times
 

Al Smith

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Might sound odd but I have no idea how fast a 125 will spin up .I know it's enough for what they are used for .I'd guess them to be around 7.5----8 HP .In addition to the two Macs and the large Homelite I also have a stock Stihl 084 and I really have no idea which one has the most power just they all have enough .
 

Dream

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Got an unexpected day pff tomorrow, so I'm gettimg rid of 3 dead pines out back.
Got everything cleaned and sharpened. Even got the PM6A going. That is a NASTY little varmint, but I dont know if I'll like it for limbing on the ground.
0504201916_HDR.jpg 0504201920.jpg
 

Dream

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Oh, got a full compliment chain for the PM700. 92 links.
Lots of teefs. Gonna see how I like it.0504201853_HDR.jpg
 

Dream

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Got the Stihl full chisel. That dealer sells cut to length Stihl and Oregon chain. I'll ask them about that one. He sold me the Stihl chain for $31.00 out the door. That pretty good?
 

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Steve

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Got the Stihl full chisel. That dealer sells cut to length Stihl and Oregon chain. I'll ask them about that one. He sold me the Stihl chain for $31.00 out the door. That pretty good?

Yes, that is a great deal! This chain retails for 38 i think. I paid 30 from my dealer.
 

northwest saws

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I got the last one at the rental center, but have also got them at Napa
Thanks. My locals napa's dont have them but theres a possibility they could order. I didn't even think to ask them if they could and I feel a little dumb for that right now.
 

Steve

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Thanks. My locals napa's dont have them but theres a possibility they could order. I didn't even think to ask them if they could and I feel a little dumb for that right now.


The napa chips are NOVAII chips. May be cheaper to get o line if they have to order them.
 

Bigmac

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It's got a HL283A on it. It has the holes for a choke shaft. Can't remember
if i took the choke out. It isn't a smooth bore like a race carb but works fine
with this saw.
Thanks, I think that’s discontinued now. But looks like it’s a 1” bore 7/8 Venturi, I found a few that might work hl304wx looks good.
 

Bigmac

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Thanks. My locals napa's dont have them but theres a possibility they could order. I didn't even think to ask them if they could and I feel a little dumb for that right now.

The napa chips are NOVAII chips. May be cheaper to get o line if they have to order them.

They are cheaper online for sure! This last one I got was a Oregon brand, but I know it’s generic, lots of companies use it. I am scared of the completely generic ones being seconds, I hear of a lot of failures with them. I haven’t had any problems with the chips, but they need to be in a place that doesn’t get hot and it needs to have at least a 6” long ground lead, for some reason that’s important. My 797 and wb101 are both using them. I would like to try the capacitor instead of condenser, but I have had a hard time tracking down the correct one

the nice thing with Napa is if you get a bad chip they would take it back
 

Al Smith

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I'm not a fan of chipped ignitions .One of my 125's.I think the all black one had an "atom arc" .The pot licker would over heat. Then one day it just fell off because who ever did it just used some type of adhesive to mount it .As luck would have it the points and condenser were still there .Must have been a freak flywheel because the puller holes were number 12 screws not number 10 not 1/4".Hell they didn't hold .I tapped them out to 5/16" and still had a tough time pulling the FW .It had an off set key which I kept just reset the points and never had another problem with it .
 

Lee H

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Thanks, I think that’s discontinued now. But looks like it’s a 1” bore 7/8 Venturi, I found a few that might work hl304wx looks good.

The 304 i believe is a smooth bore race carb like the 360 i have on my problem saw.
The 304 i have is broken at the mounting flange. I think it is one i got from Jacob a
few years ago. If you want it i can send it your way. I don't think i will ever use it.
 

Bigmac

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I'm not a fan of chipped ignitions .One of my 125's.I think the all black one had an "atom arc" .The pot licker would over heat. Then one day it just fell off because who ever did it just used some type of adhesive to mount it .As luck would have it the points and condenser were still there .Must have been a freak flywheel because the puller holes were number 12 screws not number 10 not 1/4".Hell they didn't hold .I tapped them out to 5/16" and still had a tough time pulling the FW .It had an off set key which I kept just reset the points and never had another problem with it .
Al, I think your problem with that 125 was over advanced ignition, with the stock 5° flywheel and offset key, you could have easily been 7.5-10° of timing advance, that would cause difficulties starting and overheating would be possible. By hooking up the points you were back to 26°-27° max timing at idle vs 35-37° with the chip and offset flywheel key. If you were to install the key backwards and retard the flywheel and install a chip, it would run like stock. The chip is like having maverick ignition all the time, not always good with 5° flywheel, with the 797, it has the standard flywheel, so timing is stock with the chip, or even maverick ignition
 

Bigmac

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The 304 i believe is a smooth bore race carb like the 360 i have on my problem saw.
The 304 i have is broken at the mounting flange. I think it is one i got from Jacob a
few years ago. If you want it i can send it your way. I don't think i will ever use it.
Thanks, I think with that advice I will try the 070 hl324, it’s a 1” bore 13/16 Venturi, and you can get a genuine Tillotson of $50-55. It’s a little smaller, and that’s probably good for a 797
 

simsponsawshop

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Ok, oiler problems in the SP81.... here is what I found. On the manual oiler, we have an improper mix of parts. It has the thick flange oil pickup line used in conjunction with a thin gasket effectively trapping the check disc. I have options here, I have another manual pump with a thick gasket and I have a pickup line with the thin flange so one way or another I will get that sorted.
On the auto oiler, it had the plastic pump in it and it is missing the plug in the bottom of the outlet channel. Can I just epoxy that hole shut? I also have an aluminum body pump but it is missing the spring and check ball unfortunately. Does anyone have a good used pump they would part with?
Thanks guys.
098c157447c974a1143ba274909162e3.jpg


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