MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Dream]

So while we're on the subject of repairs, let me pose a question.
I have a little green saw that I found in the same pile as my 7-10A. It didnt fare quite as well as the Mac. It had water in the crankcase, which gathered in the flywheel side crank bearing due to how it was sitting.
I took it apart and cleaned up with Scotchbrite. There is one small spot where there is fine pitting where the bearing runs. Cant catch with a fingernail, but I can feel it with a sharp pick. Sorry I dont have a picture. Wondered if anyone has had this same thing, and if anyone tried running it with new bearings as is. Was also wondering if there was something I could fill the pits with and get my machinist friend to machine it back smooth.

 

[Simpsonsawshop]

Here is how this turned out, going to run a gasketed plug and hope for the best. The other cylinder I have would need at least a double over time sert. I still dont know how people manage to do this to spark plug threads.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[heimannm]

Dream - there is a LocTite product that is green in color and intended to "wick" into the small spaces around bearings, etc. I think the number may be 690? I have used it a few times when a bearing was just a bit loose and as far as I know they all worked.

Mark

P.S. I am going through my McCulloch literature (IPL's, workshop manuals, advertisements, etc....) and will have some duplicates available in the near future. I will try to put together a list but it may be rather long.

Mark

 

[Steve]

Here is how this turned out, going to run a gasketed plug and hope for the best. The other cylinder I have would need at least a double over time sert. I still dont oniw how people manage to do this to spark plug threads.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Leaving sparkplugs under torqued is what causes damaged threads most the time. Everything warms up and the plug gets super loose and vibrates the threads right off. The hot leaking exhaust gas doesnt help either.

 

[Bigmac]

Got a nice lot of Big Mac part

 

[Al Smith]

FWIW Loctite also makes a product called "press fit " often used for wallered out holes for bearings which works well .I used it on a spun main bearing on one of the Stihls I got of E-bay and as yet never had a problem .I did however "raise " the metal by pin pricking it which is in essence the same as an internal knurling it like they do for a worn out valve guide on old engines .Old trick from an old guy

 

[Gizzard]

I've done the same on some worn bearing journals with adding some knurling and then set bearing with the green Loctite as Mark mentioned. Can't remember number for the Loctite, but I do remember it says "sleeve retainer" on the bottle.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us...ts/blog/difference-between-threadlockers.html

 

[fossil]

We used Loctite green retaining compound on a crankshaft bearing pocket on a 1600 ton eccentric geared straight side draw press. It worked perfectly.

 

[Dream]

Sorry guys, I should have taken a picture. I had already put the crank in a Ziploc bag with some oil because I cleaned and polished it. Didnt want it to rust. The pits I'm referring to are actually on the crankshaft itself. On the flywheel side bearing journal.

 

[Dream]

Where I'm pointing to. Thats where the pit is. This is another crank I just pulled from a saw that had more water in it than the last one. The crank and crank nearings were spared. Piston looks mint once I cleaned it off. Broke a ring trying to get it off. Rushed it. Knew better. Trying to see if this crank will interchange with the other one. If so, may be in business.

 

[Dream]

Got to run the 700 and the 7-10A for a few this afternoon.
700 has a 28" bar with a Stihl full chisel skip tooth.
7-10A has a Stihl full chisel full compliment chain. 700 seems so slow. No lack of power. I can undercut when bucking and pull up as hard as I can, and it doesnt bog. Saw isnt lugging at all. Is it just the skip tooth chain? Ive never used one. Was concerned that the saw would lug too hard with full comp, but now I'm thinking I might try it.
Wood wasnt big enough to bury the 20" bar, so no length issues there. Cutting wild cherry and red oak. Still pretty green. Down about a month.

 

[Bigmac]

Got to run the 700 and the 7-10A for a few this afternoon.
700 has a 28" bar with a Stihl full chisel skip tooth.
7-10A has a Stihl full chisel full compliment chain. 700 seems so slow. No lack of power. I can undercut when bucking and pull up as hard as I can, and it doesnt bog. Saw isnt lugging at all. Is it just the skip tooth chain? Ive never used one. Was concerned that the saw would lug too hard with full comp, but now I'm thinking I might try it.
Wood wasnt big enough to bury the 20" bar, so no length issues there. Cutting wild cherry and red oak. Still pretty green. Down about a month.

Swap bars and chain and see what happens! Only real way to tell

 

[Bigmac]

Sorry guys, I should have taken a picture. I had already put the crank in a Ziploc bag with some oil because I cleaned and polished it. Didnt want it to rust. The pits I'm referring to are actually on the crankshaft itself. On the flywheel side bearing journal.

As long as they are not deep it should be fine, but if it’s were the seal rides I wouldn’t run it

 

[Steve]

Hit some wire.

 

[Bigmac]

Hit some wire.

View attachment 238732 View attachment 238733

Can’t like that Steve!

 

[Steve]

Can’t like that Steve!

Dont ruin my like/post ratio Nathan!


Its all better now.

 

[Bigmac]

Dont ruin my like/post ratio Nathan!


Its all better now.

View attachment 238734

Looks like you sharpened it backwards Steve

 

[Bigmac]

Got my 797 running pretty good, put a carb kit in and it was running funny, so I put an ignition chip and she is running decent.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Got to run the 700 and the 7-10A for a few this afternoon.
700 has a 28" bar with a Stihl full chisel skip tooth.
7-10A has a Stihl full chisel full compliment chain. 700 seems so slow. No lack of power. I can undercut when bucking and pull up as hard as I can, and it doesnt bog. Saw isnt lugging at all. Is it just the skip tooth chain? Ive never used one. Was concerned that the saw would lug too hard with full comp, but now I'm thinking I might try it.
Wood wasnt big enough to bury the 20" bar, so no length issues there. Cutting wild cherry and red oak. Still pretty green. Down about a month.

I use 700s at work and home , I use 24" bars and carry skip and full chisel with me . I found that if I'm cutting hard or deciduous trees the full comp works better. I bought the full skip for really sappy pine (loblolly and Virginia) and the skip does a fantastic job in that clears chips better and doesn't bog in the softer wood.
I've also used an 8 pin sprocket with skip and it hardly noticed. Like you said you can pull on those 70cc macs and it'll cut.