That looks great Mark!!I have been working with a local shop getting some full wrap handle bars for the 10 Series saws...still a work in progress. I also took in a decent example of an SP125 full wrap bar (narrow, non-brake version) and they came up with a perfect match on the first try.
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If anyone out there is interested send me a PM and I will see what kind of quantity discounts are available. Note that these will be steel tubing rather than the original aluminum.
Mark
So this was on my doorstep this evening. Purchased from a member on another site with some disclosed issues but it does run and has ridiculous compression.
Some photos showing the issues. What are my options going to be for these spark plug threads? The tapped threads in the cylinder are ok but I dont think they are tapped deep enough because the plug sits out of the hole and if you go deeper there will be nothing to stop it from falling all the way through.
I tried a couple test cuts and it was erratic and didn't really respond well to tuning so I pulled the carb thinking a rebuild would be in order. Is something missing in the intake? One side of the boot seems to be falling in, the picture is bad sorry.
I have never had or worked on one of the antivibe saws so this is all new to me. Also, the manual oiler seems to.not worknbut the automatic does. What should I be looking for there?
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Do you have info on the kit Tim?I bought a cheap aftermarket that is the same as the Helicoil lkit and the inserts are interchange
Do you have info on the kit Tim?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
So this was on my doorstep this evening. Purchased from a member on another site with some disclosed issues but it does run and has ridiculous compression.
Some photos showing the issues. What are my options going to be for these spark plug threads? The tapped threads in the cylinder are ok but I dont think they are tapped deep enough because the plug sits out of the hole and if you go deeper there will be nothing to stop it from falling all the way through.
I tried a couple test cuts and it was erratic and didn't really respond well to tuning so I pulled the carb thinking a rebuild would be in order. Is something missing in the intake? One side of the boot seems to be falling in, the picture is bad sorry.
I have never had or worked on one of the antivibe saws so this is all new to me. Also, the manual oiler seems to.not worknbut the automatic does. What should I be looking for there?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
That’s how I do them too Steve, I like the insert with the shoulder, that’s what I did to my 797I use those at work all the time Kevin. I always use a gasket seat plug after i install the insert to prevent over driving it. An ngk bpmr7a like all the husqy saws use is a great option.
Use green locktite to make sure that thing stays there forever!
Use green locktite to make sure that thing stays there forever!
The green is super low viscosity for wicking along already assembled parts (sleeves and bearings) and could actually leak all the way past the threads and into the cylinder if too much is used. Gotta be careful if using green for this application. Red is better suited.
Yeah it’s like all the red Loctite, There is more than one style of red Loctite, and there is more than one green Loctite as well.The green i have is almost like grease.
I used one once in a ford V10 . Worked great but 100.00 per hole and a PITA for the back cylinders.FWIW Time -Sert makes an insert that makes partial threads on the bottom of the tapped hole which has a wedging action and install with a form tap that spreads the bottom of the insert so it cannot back out .These in varied forms and sizes are used by Ford Motor Company and Roush racing . For a single repair they would be a little bit costly though . I've literally seen them by the thousands .