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Frank bierce

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I have been working with a local shop getting some full wrap handle bars for the 10 Series saws...still a work in progress. I also took in a decent example of an SP125 full wrap bar (narrow, non-brake version) and they came up with a perfect match on the first try.

View attachment 238331

View attachment 238332

View attachment 238333

View attachment 238334

If anyone out there is interested send me a PM and I will see what kind of quantity discounts are available. Note that these will be steel tubing rather than the original aluminum.

Mark
That looks great Mark!!
 

Simpsonsawshop

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So this was on my doorstep this evening. Purchased from a member on another site with some disclosed issues but it does run and has ridiculous compression.
Some photos showing the issues. What are my options going to be for these spark plug threads? The tapped threads in the cylinder are ok but I dont think they are tapped deep enough because the plug sits out of the hole and if you go deeper there will be nothing to stop it from falling all the way through.
I tried a couple test cuts and it was erratic and didn't really respond well to tuning so I pulled the carb thinking a rebuild would be in order. Is something missing in the intake? One side of the boot seems to be falling in, the picture is bad sorry.
I have never had or worked on one of the antivibe saws so this is all new to me. Also, the manual oiler seems to.not worknbut the automatic does. What should I be looking for there?
6d298c6c5db1c52c365b1a4bfc573b57.jpg
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4847c18bc8f4cc2e56121ec12d9bdb00.jpg
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fossil

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So this was on my doorstep this evening. Purchased from a member on another site with some disclosed issues but it does run and has ridiculous compression.
Some photos showing the issues. What are my options going to be for these spark plug threads? The tapped threads in the cylinder are ok but I dont think they are tapped deep enough because the plug sits out of the hole and if you go deeper there will be nothing to stop it from falling all the way through.
I tried a couple test cuts and it was erratic and didn't really respond well to tuning so I pulled the carb thinking a rebuild would be in order. Is something missing in the intake? One side of the boot seems to be falling in, the picture is bad sorry.
I have never had or worked on one of the antivibe saws so this is all new to me. Also, the manual oiler seems to.not worknbut the automatic does. What should I be looking for there?
6d298c6c5db1c52c365b1a4bfc573b57.jpg
394de61655493817ff3756759e58d55c.jpg
4847c18bc8f4cc2e56121ec12d9bdb00.jpg
bc2f2f441be12bff28f0abda453fc320.jpg
d02a9f07bf39b547f4212c004fad8e55.jpg
853400ea3160e0c190adb5cdb8f06a70.jpg
27b640ab22965d16b1f8136067402f65.jpg
b67e9926fdbd02300d33557a298bb40e.jpg
f51688f480789cbd48c1f7314379f298.jpg
2a85ac138bf81d703147d1efd5c5cc49.jpg


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Those are good inserts Kevin unless the PO has buggered up the insert re- tap threads. That insert uses a tool that allows you to give it a good smack so those darts on the insert expand and bite into the hole so it doesn't come out.

It should have some red loctite on it as well.


The kit is a Helicoil spark plug repair kit.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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That spark plug insert was never installed correctly. It's a Save-a-Thread by Helicoil and usually a good solution when done right. May be salvageable if you bite the bullet and buy the kit with the tap and punch to try re-doing it right. The punch is tapered to slide just inside the top of the insert and will spread the knurled ring above the threads into the aluminum cylinder with a couple of good whacks with a hammer to keep the insert from un-threading when you remove a spark plug. That and some high temp Loctite will last a long, long time as a stripped plug thread fix. Different size inserts are available for different applications and one of each comes with the kit. Extras are available separately or several to a package.

(Great minds think alike, eh?)
 

fossil

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I bought a cheap aftermarket kit that is the same as the Helicoil kit and the inserts are interchangeable
 
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Simpsonsawshop

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Ok, that was the type of info I needed. The threads in the cylinder are ok and the plug/insert combo will thread right back in. I just dont think it was tapped deep enough. My pics are lousy, but there is a visible ridge at the bottom of the threads and the whole spark plug and insert stands out of the cylinder too far.

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jacob j.

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Bigmac

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Ya the intake boot could be going out, or installed improperly, it looks offset, like it slipped
 

Steve

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So this was on my doorstep this evening. Purchased from a member on another site with some disclosed issues but it does run and has ridiculous compression.
Some photos showing the issues. What are my options going to be for these spark plug threads? The tapped threads in the cylinder are ok but I dont think they are tapped deep enough because the plug sits out of the hole and if you go deeper there will be nothing to stop it from falling all the way through.
I tried a couple test cuts and it was erratic and didn't really respond well to tuning so I pulled the carb thinking a rebuild would be in order. Is something missing in the intake? One side of the boot seems to be falling in, the picture is bad sorry.
I have never had or worked on one of the antivibe saws so this is all new to me. Also, the manual oiler seems to.not worknbut the automatic does. What should I be looking for there?
6d298c6c5db1c52c365b1a4bfc573b57.jpg
394de61655493817ff3756759e58d55c.jpg
4847c18bc8f4cc2e56121ec12d9bdb00.jpg
bc2f2f441be12bff28f0abda453fc320.jpg
d02a9f07bf39b547f4212c004fad8e55.jpg
853400ea3160e0c190adb5cdb8f06a70.jpg
27b640ab22965d16b1f8136067402f65.jpg
b67e9926fdbd02300d33557a298bb40e.jpg
f51688f480789cbd48c1f7314379f298.jpg
2a85ac138bf81d703147d1efd5c5cc49.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I use those at work all the time Kevin. I always use a gasket seat plug after i install the insert to prevent over driving it. An ngk bpmr7a like all the husqy saws use is a great option.

Use green locktite to make sure that thing stays there forever!
 

Bigmac

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I use those at work all the time Kevin. I always use a gasket seat plug after i install the insert to prevent over driving it. An ngk bpmr7a like all the husqy saws use is a great option.

Use green locktite to make sure that thing stays there forever!
That’s how I do them too Steve, I like the insert with the shoulder, that’s what I did to my 797
 

PogoInTheWoods

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That insert may just be too long for the application. The short ones are typically what would be used in a chainsaw cylinder.

You'll obviously want to grease the tap real good to catch shavings if you're leaving the cylinder on the saw for the operation. You'll also want the piston low enough to not gouge it while tapping, especially on smaller displacement saws. Rotate the piston to open the exhaust port and push lots of high pressure air down the plug hole to clean out any straggling debris after tapping.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Use green locktite to make sure that thing stays there forever!

The green is super low viscosity for wicking along already assembled parts (sleeves and bearings) and could actually leak all the way past the threads and into the cylinder if too much is used. Gotta be careful if using green for this application. Red is better suited.
 

Al Smith

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FWIW Time -Sert makes an insert that makes partial threads on the bottom of the tapped hole which has a wedging action and install with a form tap that spreads the bottom of the insert so it cannot back out .These in varied forms and sizes are used by Ford Motor Company and Roush racing . For a single repair they would be a little bit costly though . I've literally seen them by the thousands .
 

Steve

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The green is super low viscosity for wicking along already assembled parts (sleeves and bearings) and could actually leak all the way past the threads and into the cylinder if too much is used. Gotta be careful if using green for this application. Red is better suited.


The green i have is almost like grease.
 

Maintenance Chief

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FWIW Time -Sert makes an insert that makes partial threads on the bottom of the tapped hole which has a wedging action and install with a form tap that spreads the bottom of the insert so it cannot back out .These in varied forms and sizes are used by Ford Motor Company and Roush racing . For a single repair they would be a little bit costly though . I've literally seen them by the thousands .
I used one once in a ford V10 . Worked great but 100.00 per hole and a PITA for the back cylinders.
 
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