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So what's the current two stroke oil favorite?

North by Northwest

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Hmm, so there’s this….View attachment 348912
Not sure if the Chevron product was today's Techtron product . However it utilized Stoddard solvent at levels of 40 % which contains trimetyhlbenzene & aromatic hydro carbons , rather than kerosene . The old MMO also had toluene & xylene adders , although not as hazardous as benzene , not something I wish to inhale , absorb or injest . I try to utilize the safest & most environmentally sound ( biodegradable) product . Pretty hard sometimes , that's why most often I use ultrasonic cleaning with biodegradable emulsion products .
 

North by Northwest

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Nothing like a few pictures to stop all of the noise !!!!

If I wasn't COMPLETELY satisfied with Dominator, or Schaeffer's 7000, I'd likely be running Castrol or Saber.

Red Armor is just too dang expensive these days, there are oils out there that are just as good for better $$.

I hear Schaeffer's has gotten expensive as well, no ??
yeah schaeffers has pretty well priced themselves out of the market , red armor is next !
 

mrxlh

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Not sure if the Chevron product was today's Techtron product . However it utilized Stoddard solvent at levels of 40 % which contains trimetyhlbenzene & aromatic hydro carbons , rather than kerosene . The old MMO also had toluene & xylene adders , although not as hazardous as benzene , not something I wish to inhale , absorb or injest . I try to utilize the safest & most environmentally sound ( biodegradable) product . Pretty hard sometimes , that's why most often I use ultrasonic cleaning with biodegradable emulsion products .
That SDS is from 2022, sometimes a little research goes a long way. With Chevron headquarters being in California, if it was known to be cancer causing it would be stated as such.
 

Vintage Engine Repairs

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Klotz Benol , also is a more modern Castor based oil . However caster is castor , its superiority was & is gall prevention . Down side was & is still , ring & piston dome deposits . It's a fine line in tuning & additive package within the castor package to burn the oil within the mix to reduce the accumulation & then have the detergent package emulsifiy the remaining residue and allow it be be burned off effectively . In summary it's a dicy proposition to use any castor based oil without a working knowledge of it pros & cons brother !
Thanks for the heads up and info :) I’d never put it in any of my good equipment, hence why the $5 hedge trimmer got it for testing haha.
 

Vintage Engine Repairs

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So after an hour and a half of using the whipper snipper on 32:1 caster 927, I decided to pull off the cover into the crank case. It was covered in oil everywhere. Not just a shine, but a thick film coating everything. Very eye opening how good this stuff lubricates, night and day to the ultra which seems to leave a shine (which initially I thought was good). Shame caster is not cleaner for this application.
 

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So after an hour and a half of using the whipper snipper on 32:1 caster 927, I decided to pull off the cover into the crank case. It was covered in oil everywhere. Not just a shine, but a thick film coating everything. Very eye opening how good this stuff lubricates, night and day to the ultra which seems to leave a shine (which initially I thought was good). Shame caster is not cleaner for this application.
I think the castor separated from the gas after carb atomized the mix and stick to everything. While the Ultra is carried away with the mixed air/fuel and burn?
Castor 927 is the worst oil I've ever use when adding to the gas. You gonna shake it real good before refueling.
 

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I think the castor separated from the gas after carb atomized the mix and stick to everything. While the Ultra is carried away with the mixed air/fuel and burn?
Castor 927 is the worst oil I've ever use when adding to the gas. You gonna shake it real good before refueling.
Yeah it takes a lot of agitation to get it to mix!

Tried a couple of different oils at 32:1, not a fan personally. Way too smoky and gave me a sore throat both times LOL. Tuned correctly, so that’s not the issue. Going to go back to 40:1 on my stuff and 50:1 for equipment I’ll flip.
 

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Another problem with castor is it probably goes bad faster than synthetic. Left out in the air for a year or 2 in small quantities Klotz Benol looses its red color either turning amber colored or completely clear with a rancid smell like spoiled veg oil. I don't know how the lube properties change, I think it gets stickier and less oily.
 

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Another problem with castor is it probably goes bad faster than synthetic. Left out in the air for a year or 2 in small quantities Klotz Benol looses its red color either turning amber colored or completely clear with a rancid smell like spoiled veg oil. I don't know how the lube properties change, I think it gets stickier and less oily.
That’s interesting! Good to know. Makes sense as it is a vegetable oil and we’ve all smelt rancid oil!

I have one more oil I want to try which should arrive soon, Amsoil Saber. Will test at 40:1.
 
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Ford3000

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Good ole Castrol ! lol.
That must be a record of some sorts.
Was it sold by amazon, maybe they were out and had
to wait until it came in, they wouldn't say in fear you
would cancel, its all about the dollar, ol jeff will need
a big box to go in.
 

North by Northwest

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This is what ya want to see in a abused hard working work saw with a couple thousand hrs on it.
066 run on and tuned for 25:1 mineral oil it whole life still has good ring seal no blow by no carboned up exhaust or gummed up rings with that many hrs on it
View attachment 348763 View attachment 348764 View attachment 348765


I do also use Synthetic oils I use them in my 2T bikes @ 32:1
A high quality mineral oil is a Group III oil , therefore actually highly refined & a base synthetic . At 24:1 it will always give the optimal results you have identified . I ran Quaker State straight 30 in all my Pioneers for yrs same results when run hard @ 16:1 . Later on when true 2T oils made available , I ran both Quaker State , then Shell or Castrol 2T oils at 32:1 for yrs until I switched to Amsoil just around the Millenium !
 
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North by Northwest

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Our supplier of fuels/oils for the mill reckoned ya couldn't get Activ anymore so went with Garden for a few years.. Is good oil in my experience 660/661 run all day in 40c heat day after day on it with zero oil related problems that's mixed at 25:1 sometimes if I can be bothered I'll mix it up at 32:1 for little saws.
I still use Activ or Garden doesn't bother me I get whatever is on the shelf at the time now day's.
A Quality FC rate not certified oil , that will protect that 661 for years !
 

North by Northwest

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That must be a record of some sorts.
Was it sold by amazon, maybe they were out and had
to wait until it came in, they wouldn't say in fear you
would cancel, its all about the dollar, ol jeff will need
a big box to go in.
you never know about marketing strategy , you could be spot on !
 

Vintage Engine Repairs

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A high quality mineral oil is a Group III oil , therefore actually highly refined & a base synthetic . At 24:1 it will always give the optimal results you have identified . I ran Quaker State straight 30 in all my Pioneers for yrs same results when run hard @ 16:1 . Later on when true 2T oils made available , I ran both Quaker State , then Shell or Castrol 2T oils at 32:1 for yrs until I switched to Amsoil just around the Millenium !
What ratio are you running with the Amsoil? Is it Saber or dominator? Seems the consensus is 40:1.
 

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I just ran some Red Armor today (courtesy of @I saw a lot , thank you again). I went with 32:1 in my son's MS250 he and I fixed up. Figure a little extra insurance can't hurt. Doesn't smell bad and burns clean. Tunes easy.

I like it, I switched to it about a year ago, but I think Echo might be gouging somewhat on price now.
It went up about 30% here versus last year.
Amsoil Saber is cheaper here & never went up since last year.
 

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I like it, I switched to it about a year ago, but I think Echo might be gouging somewhat on price now.
It went up about 30% here versus last year.
Amsoil Saber is cheaper here & (hasn't gone up yet...) never went up since last year.

Fixt.
The only things that haven't gone up yet are "NOS" or on hand inventory because the store hasn't bought it at the "new" price. Everybody and their brother is jacking stuff up like crazy. I hate to be so negative, it's not my nature. I believe we are all frustrated.
 
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