So what did you do today?

[chipper1]

Sounds amazing! Here there is an inspection for almost everything. We just redid our roof on our house & we had to pull a permit! For replacing the shingles….

Bet all that caulk had a prop 65 sticker on it too...

 

[chipper1]

Finally getting the siding on the barn. The wainscoting is done and the short walls have the siding done too. Did a enough insulation on one of the gable ends to get 4 pieces of metal up there yesterday( no pictures of that yet).
We had an inspection on the holes/concrete, next inspection is when we finish the siding. The county to the east(one mile away) is more like the wild west with regards to building permits and codes, unfortunately it looks like it too .
Once the insulation and siding is finished I'll need nate and his caulk gun to swing by .

 

[Mastermind]

Finally getting the siding on the barn. The wainscoting is done and the short walls have the siding done too. Did a enough insulation on one of the gable ends to get 4 pieces of metal up there yesterday( no pictures of that yet).
We had an inspection on the holes/concrete, next inspection is when we finish the siding. The county to the east(one mile away) is more like the wild west with regards to building permits and codes, unfortunately it looks like it too .
Once the insulation and siding is finished I'll need nate and his caulk gun to swing by .
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Very nice.

 

[Nate.]

Bet all that caulk had a prop 65 sticker on it too...

You better believe it!!!

 

[1 stihl nut]

A little more wood work today, and then back to the shop to figure out a game plan . Need to develop the confidence and patience to do what's necessary to get a few of these back into service. 2 are air leaks/crank seals. After that, it's a step at a time.

 

[chipper1]

Very nice.

Thanks.
The porch looks nice too. I miss those videos of saws cutting that square oak right there.

 

[chipper1]

You better believe it!!!

Fortunately we don't have prop 65 caulk here lol. I'll be using some around the windows to seal them to the J-channel. May use a little construction adhesive to glue a layer of insulation on the inside of the walls before building 2x walls inside, it should be pretty easy to heat/cool. Sure takes a lot of time, can't imagine doing all you did.

 

[Nate.]

Took me and another guy about 11 hours total doing all that. For most of the important caulking my boss has us run duralink 50 caulk & we use denatured Alcohol for cleanup. Seems like it holds up a little better than water based and doesn’t shrink.

 

[Hulpio]

Did I get this right? There is no vapor barrier on the warm side of the wall? If it would be my building I would buy 10ft wide strong polyethylene film and special tape for joints. Apply this film to the wall and ceiling AND overlap joints at least 1ft AND use that tape for attaching layers together. The aim of this is to keep inside moisture away from the insulation and wooden structures. Frame materials and insulating stuff will "breathe" out and also stay dry. Topmost layer of the wall is of course windproof and behind it there is like 1“ space where air can flow free. Againg for keeping everything dry.
This way houses are build in Finland and Sweden I think. Note! I'm not trying to be smart-ass just wondering. These cultural differences are very interesting and IF human kind acts smart we bookmark good stuff internationally and learn.

 

[Nate.]

There is tyvek house wrap on the outside of the shear. Are you talking about running something like that on the inside?

 

[Hulpio]

Yeah, I think. Vapor-waterproof layer is just behind inside wall. Like behind drywall.

 

[Hulpio]

Rockwool whatever is used must be on the cold side of vapor barrier. Otherwise vapors, moisture etc can condesate sonewhere inside insulating layer AND that is not a good thing. Moisture coming from ourside air can come and go because wall "breathes" outside - not inside.

 

[Nate.]

Hmmm, these walls definitely aren’t going to breath to the outside they are sealed up pretty darn tight. I’m not sure what the proper way of doing it would be but this is how the engineer designed it. I have always liked whatching how they build stuff in other area’s cause there is often some pretty big differences.

 

[Hulpio]

So what happens if there is -5F outside and someone is taking a long, hot shower. Then this person opens bathroom door.
Clouds of water spread around and eventually this water finds it way to the rockwool. Since it is warm inside and cold outside there will be condensating temperature somewhere inside that rockwool. The rest is - - - mold.
For this reason our "code" insists vapor barrier to the warm side AND air pressure inside the house a bit smaller than it is outside. Read - ducts out have more air flowing than duct in. - - > small pressure difference between inside and outside the house.

 

[Hulpio]

If you ask me the best possible way to construct a wall is to make it from logs.
I would love 5ft thick log walls.

 

[stretch5881]

Tyvek can breathe allowing the insulation to dry. Vapor barrier on the inside keeps inside air moisture from getting in the walls. The vapor barrier also keeps the wind from getting through cracks and any place the insulation is not perfect. The interior would be much more temperature and humidity stable.

 

[Nate.]

Hmm I’ll admit I don’t know enough about it to give ya a good answer. However we haven’t insulated yet so it is possible that a vapor barrier will be going in over that.

 

[Hulpio]

Well, I would do anything possible to prevent inside moisture getting to the insulating layer causing uncontrolled condensation and eventually mold.
But as I said. I'm living to learn and study things so different ways of doing things are interesting.

 

[Mastermind]

I'd rather my house be a little "drafty" instead of airtight. But, I'm not in an arctic zone, and I heat with wood.

 

[Nate.]

As do we! Our house was built in the 50’s and is definitely drafty. I’m also kinda curious what the possible side affects of the house being sealed up the way it is might be.