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Simington / Silvey Square Chain Grinders Tips/Tricks/Secrets

pbillyi69

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i just went and put an old worn out chain on then a mostly new one on there and the is way more of a change in chasis angle on the cutter that i thought there was which is why it didnt make sense to me. i fjgured that it was staying way closer to the same angle than it really is. as you move your arm up do you also have to make the wheel thinner? i have never liked having to change the angle by moving the holder closer by sliding it down.
 

RI Chevy

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This is gettin teknickle here. Sounds like it's all a game of angles. Like Football...
 

pbillyi69

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ok so here is a real techinicle question...how do you find the center line of the arm? more importantly after the motor is shimmed and is the same from side to side how do you adjust for or measure if the arm or that both teeth right and left are making contact with the wheel in the same location from side to side? ie when everything is the same and spot on there shouldnt need to be any changes made to the chain stop and if there are then something is slightly off. for testing my theory i measured cutters and ground one from each side to be exactly the same length and then marked the stone and an adjustment was necessary on the stop to make contact with the stone. i then used a degree wheel and a brand new stone to have it as big as possible put it on trued it up and measured with the degree wheel on the stone and the is almost three degree difference in where it contacts the wheel. which in my mind means the motor isnt centered exactly. which then brings up which way do you move it? rotate the back or the front? i know im splitting hairs and im not the smartest feller but im no dummy either most of the time. i would think the arms center at the pivot point should be in line with the center of the motor but how to measure that? the degree wheel and swinging from side to side is what i have done. i havent made any changes to the motors position because its right on with the shimming. but im sure that the inside angles are a little different between my right cutters and my left cutters. over thunk the crap out of that.
 

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ok so here is a real techinicle question...how do you find the center line of the arm? more importantly after the motor is shimmed and is the same from side to side how do you adjust for or measure if the arm or that both teeth right and left are making contact with the wheel in the same location from side to side? ie when everything is the same and spot on there shouldnt need to be any changes made to the chain stop and if there are then something is slightly off. for testing my theory i measured cutters and ground one from each side to be exactly the same length and then marked the stone and an adjustment was necessary on the stop to make contact with the stone. i then used a degree wheel and a brand new stone to have it as big as possible put it on trued it up and measured with the degree wheel on the stone and the is almost three degree difference in where it contacts the wheel. which in my mind means the motor isnt centered exactly. which then brings up which way do you move it? rotate the back or the front? i know im splitting hairs and im not the smartest feller but im no dummy either most of the time. i would think the arms center at the pivot point should be in line with the center of the motor but how to measure that? the degree wheel and swinging from side to side is what i have done. i havent made any changes to the motors position because its right on with the shimming. but im sure that the inside angles are a little different between my right cutters and my left cutters. over thunk the crap out of that.

You're overthinking this.

Cut moar would.
 

huskihl

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i just went and put an old worn out chain on then a mostly new one on there and the is way more of a change in chasis angle on the cutter that i thought there was which is why it didnt make sense to me. i fjgured that it was staying way closer to the same angle than it really is. as you move your arm up do you also have to make the wheel thinner? i have never liked having to change the angle by moving the holder closer by sliding it down.
My wheel is a little thinner than yours. But most of that is so I can tip the cutters steeper into the wheel (to retain sharpness) without hitting the straps with the bottom of the wheel. Not such a big deal probably in softer wood
 

huskihl

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ok so here is a real techinicle question...how do you find the center line of the arm? more importantly after the motor is shimmed and is the same from side to side how do you adjust for or measure if the arm or that both teeth right and left are making contact with the wheel in the same location from side to side? ie when everything is the same and spot on there shouldnt need to be any changes made to the chain stop and if there are then something is slightly off. for testing my theory i measured cutters and ground one from each side to be exactly the same length and then marked the stone and an adjustment was necessary on the stop to make contact with the stone. i then used a degree wheel and a brand new stone to have it as big as possible put it on trued it up and measured with the degree wheel on the stone and the is almost three degree difference in where it contacts the wheel. which in my mind means the motor isnt centered exactly. which then brings up which way do you move it? rotate the back or the front? i know im splitting hairs and im not the smartest feller but im no dummy either most of the time. i would think the arms center at the pivot point should be in line with the center of the motor but how to measure that? the degree wheel and swinging from side to side is what i have done. i havent made any changes to the motors position because its right on with the shimming. but im sure that the inside angles are a little different between my right cutters and my left cutters. over thunk the crap out of that.
If you use the same chain stop and up/down settings for a left and right cutter, if they aren’t the same length either 1) your motor needs shimmed, or 2) where you tighten the arm together could be twisting under the torque of the thumbscrew
 

pbillyi69

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If you use the same chain stop and up/down settings for a left and right cutter, if they aren’t the same length either 1) your motor needs shimmed, or 2) where you tighten the arm together could be twisting under the torque of the thumbscrew
it was quite a while ago and when i was doing all of the checking was right after i shimmed it and as far as i could tell its shimmed to less than .001 from side to side with all things the same or as close as i could get it with the exception of the actual carbide stop being measured. what prompted me to even check to see if it hit the wheel at the same location from side to side was the inside angles appeared to be slightly more acute on one side. and i know i thought about it way too much and my saws cut fine and straight. its just my perfectionism on overtime. i would probably take it apart and make all things the same and start over if i had nothing else to do. so that probably wont ever happen
 

Bryan Marks

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Do you guys advance the chain stop or lower the arm as the tooth wears out?
I did one chain that was newer and one that was short. I just adjusted the chain stop. What do you do. Will it change the angels the farther you push the tooth forward. I guess I would adjust the arm if it was hitting the tie strap but my short chain that I did was good. No tie strap hits.
 

huskihl

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I did one chain that was newer and one that was short. I just adjusted the chain stop. What do you do. Will it change the angels the farther you push the tooth forward. I guess I would adjust the arm if it was hitting the tie strap but my short chain that I did was good. No tie strap hits.
Next couple posts I explained my thinking
 
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