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Simington / Silvey Square Chain Grinders Tips/Tricks/Secrets

pbillyi69

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i used to use a 450 in the mid 80's and you can make a really sharp chain with one although i really like the ability to change the inside angles of my cutters which is what they change
 

huskihl

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i advance the chain stop but when the tooth get close to being worn out you have to change the setting on the arm to get it to make contact with the wheel. as the tooth gets shorter eventually you have to slide the the holder down a little so the cutter will contact the wheel you can get a few more uses out of the chain
I thought about this the first couple chains I did. I sharpened a new chain and then I sharpened an old nearly worn out chain. If you use the chain stop to advance the tooth, all of your angles always change throughout the life of the tooth. If you have 3° forward lean on a new chain, you’ll be leaning back 3° by the time it’s worn out. I use my chain stop for the attack angle I want, whether I’m trying to make a fast chain or a work chain that will last a few tanks of fuel . And instead I lower the arm a little bit each time I sharpen or when I have one with shorter cutters.
 

pbillyi69

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dont you end up with a super thin top plat by the time you are at the end? i have spent a lot of time thinking about inside angles of my cutters. i wish there was a way to measure them to see what they are exactly. i am an expert over thinker... lol
 

huskihl

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dont you end up with a super thin top plat by the time you are at the end? i have spent a lot of time thinking about inside angles of my cutters. i wish there was a way to measure them to see what they are exactly. i am an expert over thinker... lol
No, that actually stays exactly the same.
Next time you’re out at your grinder, take a look and you’ll see what I’m talking about. Every chain cuts exactly the same whether it’s new or completely worn out and I never have to change my dresser angles
 

pbillyi69

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i have been trying to figure out why it changes when you swing the arm into the wheel and you turn the chain stop to advance the tooth forward a little why it changes as the tooth wears out nothing has changed except the length of the tooth excepth that the tooth is just a little narrower at the back than it is at the front
 

pbillyi69

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i only chane my dresser if i want a differen shape of cutter.
 

Mastermind

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i have been trying to figure out why it changes when you swing the arm into the wheel and you turn the chain stop to advance the tooth forward a little why it changes as the tooth wears out nothing has changed except the length of the tooth excepth that the tooth is just a little narrower at the back than it is at the front

The tooth is further around the radius on the chain holder. Has to change the angles.
 

huskihl

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i have been trying to figure out why it changes when you swing the arm into the wheel and you turn the chain stop to advance the tooth forward a little why it changes as the tooth wears out nothing has changed except the length of the tooth excepth that the tooth is just a little narrower at the back than it is at the front
The chain holder is round. As you advance the cutter into the wheel, that cutter begins to tip down more and more every time you sharpen it. It’s probably not a big deal on a 3/8 low pro as the cutter is only 1/4” long, but on .404, there is quite a change in the shape of the cutter from a new chain to an old one
 

srcarr52

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The chain holder is round. As you advance the cutter into the wheel, that cutter begins to tip down more and more every time you sharpen it. It’s probably not a big deal on a 3/8 low pro as the cutter is only 1/4” long, but on .404, there is quite a change in the shape of the cutter from a new chain to an old one

There is also a lot of change and how the cutter rocks up to make the cut from new to old. Maybe the change in cutter geometry is making up for some of that.
 
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