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Simington / Silvey Square Chain Grinders Tips/Tricks/Secrets

Frank bierce

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View attachment 311711 Dresser pivots on the RS II leave something to be desired.
Grabbed these thrust ball bearings from McMaster Carr. Smooth for now. We shall see how they hold up to the harsh environment. (grit :shakehead:)
I agree!! Lol. They use the flat thrust bearings on the swingarm style grinders. They seem to hold up well.
 

RI Chevy

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Nice job on that chain!
 

Moparmyway

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I've pretty much settled right here, for all full chisel chain that I run, including milling and playing. It's a compromise in some cases, but its pretty durable and aggressive enough with a 1-2 degree forward lean (side plate) to keep a taller raker. I pretty much just cut hardwoods, a rare cedar or spruce every blue moon, but it works great on them too. The mill sees no different and I dont use the wench to pull it through, just a little forward pressure and she cuts great.


Square angle 27 Oct 21.PNG
 

pbillyi69

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so that makes your top plate 30° if i remember right mine are at 25° and side plate at 3° which allows me to have 35 or 40 thousands of raker depth and it cuts everything pretty damn good. what are your inside angles? mine are 20200922_200840.jpg
 

Duane(Pa)

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I’ve been working on trying to profile a wheel on a newer rs2 that I purchased. Just a little too much forward lean at the moment. View attachment 313912View attachment 313913
Tilt dresser block towards motor to increase forward lean. Tilt block back toward operator to decrease... I use scribe mark, along with a snug adjustable wrench to control block while tightening holding bolt.
 

Duane(Pa)

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91EA8C00-8204-4937-9A53-F945E7D8566F.jpeg A picture’s worth a thousand words
Tilt dresser block towards motor to increase forward lean. Tilt block back toward operator to decrease... I use scribe mark, along with a snug adjustable wrench to control block while tightening holding bolt.
 

srcarr52

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Tilt dresser block towards motor to increase forward lean. Tilt block back toward operator to decrease... I use scribe mark, along with a snug adjustable wrench to control block while tightening holding bolt.

You can also raise the slide (on my RSII kits) or lower the stone arbor so the chain makes contact with the stone further down on the chain holder arc increasing the angle of attack the chain has on the wheel.
 

Dolkitafreak

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I’ve been working on trying to profile a wheel on a newer rs2 that I purchased. Just a little too much forward lean at the moment. View attachment 313912View attachment 313913
I disagree. And I know a lot of folks are fast to say you don’t want any lean or only 3 degrees, I found that chains like that don’t cut well after the first tank. With lean like you have it will self feed with higher rakers and still self feed when that corner isn’t perfect anymore. I much prefer angles like that vs no lean!
 

Frank bierce

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I disagree. And I know a lot of folks are fast to say you don’t want any lean or only 3 degrees, I found that chains like that don’t cut well after the first tank. With lean like you have it will self feed with higher rakers and still self feed when that corner isn’t perfect anymore. I much prefer angles like that vs no lean!
I did the whole chain like this to see how it performs. I do have my other rs2 set up with less angle. Have always been happy with it…but it’s always good to try new little tweaks.
 

srcarr52

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I’d thin the wheel down a little bit so you can lower the chain and roll the cutter down into it some more if you want it to last longer. I agree that you want a little bit of forward lean to keep pulling itself in

Agreed, a little forward lean with higher rakers makes for a nice work chain, easy on the user.
 
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