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huskihl

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Yup I agree, you get tired out a lot faster bucking logs or felling timber all day without using the dawgs since your holding all the weight of the saw. I never intended to offend anyone with my post as well. Just what I do, doesn’t mean other ways are the right or wrong way. It also depends on the situation. If I’m bucking a lot of real small firewood, I stand up and buck without the dawgs. Same for limbing.
Yep just explaining why I don’t use them unless they help. And when I’m doing it all day cutting bigger firewood, I’m definitely not holding up the saw anymore than I have to like you said
 

markds2

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I am guessing that if @rogue60 's timber is like it is how I expect it to be he'll find that a very sharp chain simply will not hold its edge for any length of time (I imagine that's why he also uses .404) and to negate the time wasted constantly sharpening chain I would imagine your practice would evolve to use the dogs a little more than normal to overcome what most of us would call a dull chain.
 

rogue60

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Yup I agree, you get tired out a lot faster bucking logs or felling timber all day without using the dawgs since your holding all the weight of the saw. I never intended to offend anyone with my post as well. Just what I do, doesn’t mean other ways are the right or wrong way. It also depends on the situation. If I’m bucking a lot of real small firewood, I stand up and buck without the dawgs. Same for limbing.
I agree depends on what you are doing a good operater can adapted and has every technique to fall on for any scenario.
Is no one technique that fits all pick the best one that suits what's in front of you at the time.
 

rogue60

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I am guessing that if @rogue60 's timber is like it is how I expect it to be he'll find that a very sharp chain simply will not hold its edge for any length of time (I imagine that's why he also uses .404) and to negate the time wasted constantly sharpening chain I would imagine your practice would evolve to use the dogs a little more than normal to overcome what most of us would call a dull chain.
Yes I use 404 as it holds an edge longer 3/8 basically needs double the sharpening.
We had to sides the sawmill and the logging side the one thing that dulls chains fast is dirt/mud sand if you see it clean it off if it's in the bark chop it out with an axe at your cut.
Falling with some species like the Stringybarks rain has splashed dirt and sand up into the bark over many years 404 helps there at least you can get thorough the bark before the chain is dull.
My old man is the gun hardwood logger he only uses 404 RS he would be insulted if you put 3/8 on his saw's lol

For example I could buck a truck load of hardwood logs into billets with one tank of fuel with a 660 and 404 RS in clean timber it would need a rub after one tank. 3/8 would be going off halfway through what a pita having to stop and give the saw a rub.

Sometimes with our hardwoods it's that hard a sharp chain will not self feed you have to use the dogs to literally make it cut.
And yes I've had a chain go dull with only a few cuts or a cut to go and I'm like stuff it bugger stopping and use the dogs to make it cut to finish what I'm doing.
And of course I've also cut dirt or hit the ground and the chain is to dull to cut so I have to stop and give it a rub.
If cutting firewood for example and you come across a very contaminated log with dirt/sand and has a big hollow with rock hard termite chit up the guts just walk away 404 wont even save the day with dirty crap like that lol
Only downside to .404 is it takes power to pull it and this load increases the harder the timber gets.

That's all just my experiences in my part of the world and the type of timber we cut hope some of that makes sense.

I better add 3/8 chain has it's place to it all depends on the conditions or the end goal no one shoe fits all that's why they give us options. We are lucky in that sense there is endless ways to set a saw up from gearing bar length chain type the list goes on..
 
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Ronie

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Nice Ronnie. What happens when you richen the L a bit? Does it bring idle down at all?
I can bring the Idle down if I richen it up. The low very sensitive, the slightest turn of the low make a bigger change than I'm used to. I think I can get it if I spend a little more time with it.
 

rogue60

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For the guy's interested I went down the padock (For science and stuffs) and got a little piece of nasty hard Box tree been dead a couple of year's.
And yes chain is sharp.

This is what I mean when I say our hardwoods can be that hard at times a chain won't self feed and needs a little
persuading with the dogs to cut.
These vids are ripping but it will do the same cross cutting as well.
IDK what's going on I think it's just the wood is that hard the teeth skip over it not biting in? guy's that cut softwoods have it easy that's all I know lol


This vid is to show the chain self feeding in softwood radiata pine.


This vid same chain cut or two later in some nasty hardwood it's abit much for 35cc but you can see what I mean it needs some persuading to cut.
 
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RI Chevy

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Wow. Cool comparison. Crazy wood you have down there for sure...
 

huskyboy

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IDK what's going on I think it's just the wood is that hard the teeth skip over it not biting in?
That’s exactly what’s going on. The closest thing I have here is hickory or oak frozen in the wintertime and that’s still probably softer than what you guys have. 7 pin with torque and the rakers set right cuts it with less fuss.
 
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malk315

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Sounds great Al -- curious what the fix was? Reset the Mtronic?
In the second video when it goes from long cut to idling it no longer "diesels" like it was doing in the first video (which if I remember right can indicate a lean low needle) and it no longer boggs out etc.

I know I gotta get off my duff and send that 044 hybrid back to you. My bad -- it will happen, it's just been crazy.
I have a box ready to pack it up and will try and set some time aside tomorrow to get her prepped.

Cheers.
 
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