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034 Super Build

Mad Professor

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I don’t mind if you ask me anything.

I use Simple Green branded Purple cleaner Pro in my USC. Unlike other purple cleaners, it won’t etch aluminum. I find it does the best job overall for me.

For cranks, I put them in a ziplock bag, cover with straight purple cleaner, and toss the whole bag in the USC. I’m paranoid that if I just put it directly in the USC, debris could migrate into the crank bearing. After I pull it out of the bag, I toss the cleaner into the mix. I rinse w water, blow out, then WD40. The 2T oil. You’d be amazed how bad every crank bearing feels totally dry. Every one feels bad until you lube it.

As for the seals, I do remove both sides. Not sure if I should remove the outer, as it could be a backup for the fly side seal. I figure the factory knew what they were doing, so I copy them.

A little space between the bearing and the seal should let fresh mix to flow in and out better with each cycle. Would loose that with 1-side sealed.

Might lube better and maybe cool the bearing? But then you loose the insurance policy of having 2 seals.
 

Loony661

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A little space between the bearing and the seal should let fresh mix to flow in and out better with each cycle. Would loose that with 1-side sealed.

Might lube better and maybe cool the bearing? But then you loose the insurance policy of having 2 seals.
I was thinking the same thing.
 

drf256

Dr. Richard Cranium
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IMG_3924.jpegIMG_3925.jpegIMG_3926.jpegIMG_3927.jpeg


I use a coaxial indicator to find zero. Band and base cut. Squish now at 21, but the beauty of doing one saw at a time is that I get to leave the lathe set up. I can take an extra .002-3 off the base if I need to. Won’t affect the end timing enough to matter.

Ports get cut next weekend.
 
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drf256

Dr. Richard Cranium
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I got .021 squish, but I really won’t know it till I button the jug up to the case with the new piston. I can always finesse it a bit either way. I prefer 18-20 squish, but 21 won’t make that much of a difference.

I find spinning the saw over with a drill and using .026 solder to be the most accurate method for measuring squish YMMV.

I already have my degree finder hooked up to my builder case, so I didn’t want to spin the hell out of the flywheel. It could easily be 18 when I get to check it again.


IMG_3930.jpegIMG_3934.jpegIMG_3935.jpegIMG_3936.jpegIMG_3937.jpeg
 

Duane(Pa)

It's the chain...
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I got .021 squish, but I really won’t know it till I button the jug up to the case with the new piston. I can always finesse it a bit either way. I prefer 18-20 squish, but 21 won’t make that much of a difference.

I find spinning the saw over with a drill and using .026 solder to be the most accurate method for measuring squish YMMV.

I already have my degree finder hooked up to my builder case, so I didn’t want to spin the hell out of the flywheel. It could easily be 18 when I get to check it again.


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Beautiful work Richard 😍
 

Mad Professor

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Quite the nice shop and tools/machinery!

Thanks for showing us how it's done, and the pictures help tell the story well. The dummy/old saw case, set up to do measurements on, is a great idea.

Seems you've made a lot of tooling just to do the work. Besides the mandrels, how many different base plate holders to match various saws cylinder bolt patterns?
I build the 1125 series of saw to (DRUMROLL) cut firewood. Lots of torque and power from 9500-12000 rpm.

All my 036s are firewood saws. Hope I learn more I can apply to one of them with my limited resources.
 
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