MS460 Teardown-Comments Welcome

[MustangMike]

I'm guessing that because I did not sand, or use brake cleaner on the case before going "gasketless", that it did not seal properly.

Ironically, I actually had a little bit of time today and started to take the saw down.

I will try that first, and I have a new AM coil & carb if that does not work.

My time will be limited until 4/15, but I may work on it a little here & there.

I plan to have it at the Upstate NY GTG, so another toy you can try!

I was going to put a vac tester on it, but it looks like it would be hard to determine where the leak actually is, so I will just try this first. Time is limited right now.

 

[angelo c]

I'm guessing that because I did not sand, or use brake cleaner on the case before going "gasketless", that it did not seal properly.

Ironically, I actually had a little bit of time today and started to take the saw down.

I will try that first, and I have a new AM coil & carb if that does not work.

My time will be limited until 4/15, but I may work on it a little here & there.

I plan to have it at the Upstate NY GTG, so another toy you can try!

I was going to put a vac tester on it, but it looks like it would be hard to determine where the leak actually is, so I will just try this first. Time is limited right now.

Big leak=big bucket of water
Small leak=small bottle of soapy water
Leaks are easy once you narrow the search field.

 

[MustangMike]

A lot of the cylinder base is hard to see, and I did not pull stuff off down to the seals, I'm gonna just try this first as the most likely culprit.

Not a big deal if it does not work.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

if it's a leak, I doubt it's the sealant unless there wasn't ample product applied.

 

[MustangMike]

We will find out. I have been told that because I did not use break cleaner (just wiped it with a rag) that the sealant may not have stuck. It will be done right this time.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

We will find out. I have been told that because I did not use break cleaner (just wiped it with a rag) that the sealant may not have stuck. It will be done right this time.

What did you use?

 

[MustangMike]

Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker PX#51817.

What do you use?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker PX#51817.

What do you use?

Depends.
Permatex 51813 OR Yamabond 4

Lately it's been 51813

 

[drf256]

Not sure why you're gonna split the case if you haven't confirmed an air leak Mike. I could be misunderstanding you here.

If the saw will not fire will fuel down the bore of the carb, it's gotta be an ignition problem Mike. An air leak, even a massive one, will allow a saw to at least run for a few seconds with fuel down the bore.

Again, you're sure that the flywheel is correct for the saw, the coil lead is ok and the plug is OK?

 

[paragonbuilder]

I would at least pressure/vac test Mike. It's quick and easy and may confirm its not a leak. Save your limited time...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Moparmyway]

Was there ever confirmation of good spark ?
(And I dont mean jumping from the electrode to the strap)

 

[paragonbuilder]

Was there ever confirmation of good spark ?
(And I dont mean jumping from the electrode to the strap)

I've thought I had good spark, saw wouldn't even pop. New plug and voila. Weird sometimes...

 

[MustangMike]

I'm not splitting the case, just pulling the jug.

I'm thinking a leak because it started, ran rough, then would not run.

Plug has already been swapped, and I have an new coil & carb if I need them, but I think the base gasket is the most likely problem.

 

[paragonbuilder]

When you said case i thought you meant split it again. Yeah popping the top is simple. I'd still test it first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I'm thinking a leak because it started, ran rough, then would not run.

Not sure if it's been covered yet but to me, that's a tell tale sign that the flywheel key sheared.

The taper on both the crank and the flywheel need to be wiped down with brake clean and then wiped again to insure there is absolutely no petroleum product on the mating surfaces.

Again, I apologize if this has been covered, but your description above sure fits a sheared key diagnosis

 

[paragonbuilder]

Not sure if it's been covered yet but to me, that's a tell tale sign that the flywheel key sheared.

The taper on both the crank and the flywheel need to be wiped down with brake clean and then wiped again to insure there is absolutely no petroleum product on the mating surfaces.

Again, I apologize if this has been covered, but your description above sure fits a sheared key diagnosis

And an easy fix to boot! Good call Jeremy.

 

[Moparmyway]

I'm not splitting the case, just pulling the jug.

I'm thinking a leak because it started, ran rough, then would not run.

Plug has already been swapped, and I have an new coil & carb if I need them, but I think the base gasket is the most likely problem.

Not sure if it's been covered yet but to me, that's a tell tale sign that the flywheel key sheared.

The taper on both the crank and the flywheel need to be wiped down with brake clean and then wiped again to insure there is absolutely no petroleum product on the mating surfaces.

Again, I apologize if this has been covered, but your description above sure fits a sheared key diagnosis

I've seen bad coils do that on their way out also

Mike still hasnt confirmed a good spark that jumps a good distance, like what a spark tester would make the spark jump across

I'll keep quiet now, I seem to be repeating myself

 

[junkman]

It is the ethonol in the gas

 

[Adirondackstihl]

A sheared key will still give good spark.
Just won't be in time

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks Jeremy, but I saw your comment on that in another thread to another person, so that was one of the first things I checked, it is fine.

Mopar, you are correct, so if it is not the base gasket seal or the carb, I do have a new coil to try, thanks.

I'll find it by the process of elimination and keep everyone posted, just very busy now so time is limited.