MMWS (Cross Performance) Cylinders online

[Nitehawk55]

It's not hard to elongate the holes yourself .

 

[X 66 stang347 X]

I don't think the coil could be moved enough for 8°. And how could you check it. This is only 6°

 

[MustangMike]

Randy, I was gonna say, great 661 vid, but not the one I was hoping to see!

 

[Gentleman]

The subject of this thread......

That's what I thought.

 

[Gentleman]

I picked up a couple of the 066'ers and would be happy to post up a review of what I've seen so far

Thank you

 

[Stump Shot]

If we're talking saws again, I'm thinking of one of these top ends on a AM bottom end, just because. Make an interesting project. Think I'll put that on the old Stump Shot to do list. Probably come summer time. SS

 

[rattler]

If we're talking saws again, I'm thinking of one of these top ends on a AM bottom end, just because. Make an interesting project. Think I'll put that on the old Stump Shot to do list. Probably come summer time. SS

I would like to give this a try too.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[X 66 stang347 X]

I have a NWP on a AM 660 bottom end a tree guy uses. Will see how long it last. Oem seals

 

[Terry Syd]

I've never been able to move the coil enough to make much difference.

Not only did I elongate the mounting holes, I also filed off the threads at the top of the mounting screws. This allows a bit more movement in the coil.

The better option would be a properly designed coil with elongated holes that would take the stock screws.

I've been asked by PM as to what the part number is for the 066 coil with the 4 degrees of retard for starting. It has been so long since I did the mod that I don't remember. Does anyone know the part number for the coil?

 

[Brush Ape]

China is now a major source of manufactured goods - this is a reality none of us can escape.

Dear Resigned to Fate:

Wait until we register them as currency manipulators six weeks from now and start making everything ourself. You'll all be squintin' when Brush Ape gets done with ya.

Aftermarket parts are here to stay.

And where the performance characteristics of our trucks and works bikes have been concerned hey that's turned into a real good thang.

 

[wcorey]

I've been asked by PM as to what the part number is for the 066 coil with the 4 degrees of retard for starting. It has been so long since I did the mod that I don't remember. Does anyone know the part number for the coil?

I was just recently reading somewhere in my notes that the CDIC coils for the poly flywheels are the ones with the built in slow speed start retard, as well as an advance curve for running. Not sure of the part #...

In my 4-stroke experience, most ign timing curves run up pretty quickly to full advance. Unless the motor lives at low rpm a lot (unlike saws) there's not a big advantage to having it other than for starting. Might help with crappy stale fuel...

I've also found in playing with various magnetic ign pickup modules while adapting electronics to older bikes that some have a natural advance curve seemingly just as a side effect to the physics of it all.
So I think some 'electronic' coils have a serendipitous advance, so to speak...

 

[angelo c]

Not only did I elongate the mounting holes, I also filed off the threads at the top of the mounting screws. This allows a bit more movement in the coil.

The better option would be a properly designed coil with elongated holes that would take the stock screws.

I've been asked by PM as to what the part number is for the 066 coil with the 4 degrees of retard for starting. It has been so long since I did the mod that I don't remember. Does anyone know the part number for the coil?

Paging Mr Def...
Mr Def Dble D Dave 066 coil Question in Isle 7
@Definitive Dave

 

[Terry Syd]

there's not a big advantage to having it other than for starting.

That's the reason I went to the retarded timing for starting. I had the saw 'kickback' when I was out cutting and it buggered up the plastic pawl on the starting mechanism. I had to use my back up saw to finish the session.

I found it absurd to have to go through a 'starting drill' of bringing a lousy 64cc saw up and over TDC and then pull it through like I was starting a 064. Nowadays, with the compression release and the retarded coil, I just give it a pull and it always starts without any fuss. It also saves me a bit of energy when I'm hot, sweaty and dog-tired from cutting.

 

[weedkilla]

Dear Resigned to Fate:

Wait until we register them as currency manipulators six weeks from now and start making everything ourself. You'll all be squintin' when Brush Ape gets done with ya.



And where the performance characteristics of our trucks and works bikes have been concerned hey that's turned into a real good thang.

The rest of the world watches with interest (and little real knowledge of the USA). Best of luck mate.

 

[HuckFinn]

I bought a ebay Chinese coil for a Stihl 044 that caused the saw to kick back so hard it would painfully yank the cord out of my hand. I elongated the coil mounting holes about .004 or so with a dremel tool and it started up with no kick back and runs fine. So I was wondering why is it necessary to offset the key?

 

[Majorpayne]

I bought a ebay Chinese coil for a Stihl 044 that caused the saw to kick back so hard it would painfully yank the cord out of my hand. I elongated the coil mounting holes about .004 or so with a dremel tool and it started up with no kick back and runs fine. So I was wondering why is it necessary to offset the key?

Look at how far 5 degrees is on outside of wheel vs inside where the key is. You are going to have to slot the coil mount too far to gain much.

 

[Terry Syd]

There are some models that need a fair bit of re-timing. The 029-390 series of saws has a factory tolerance of between 23.5 degrees and 28.5 degrees. That is 5 degrees of 'manufacturing tolerance' allowed for saws coming out of the factory.

You might get a good one where it is 28.5 or a lemon at 23.5. Mine was one of the lemons, I had to slowly work the key to get it where I wanted. The adjustable coil allowed me to fine tune it into the optimum timing for the best powerband.

The various manufacturing tolerances is something to remember when you read on a forum where someone suggests something like "take 1/3 off the key". Maybe that worked for his saw, but it might not work for yours.

 

[Mastermind]

To gain 8° of advance on a 066 size flywheel, you would need to move the coil about 8mm.

 

[X 66 stang347 X]

A lot of the variance on the saws with the key casted in the flywheel is the casting differences. On pro saws the tolerances are a lot finer. Most advance 066-660 around 8° or .020 off the key and It's pretty consistent also. Its a Cheap upgrade without buying parts. But I'm Not sure if I'd run a AM coil. I'll stick with New or used OEM.

 

[X 66 stang347 X]

I can say 12° is a little to much on a bg55. Was just testing [emoji16]