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huskihl

Muh fingers look really big
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No belt sander, like the pros use, someday...
I turn down the area between where the bottoms of your 54 and 56mm bases reach on your mandrel. Say your cylinder uses 3" of mandrel on each end of a 10" mandrel. That's 6" total. You have 4" in the middle that's unused. I turn that area down about 1/4", plus about 1/4" up into the cylinder area. It leaves room for a triangle shaped carbide to cut the chamfer. Sometimes it still leaves a burr in the nikasil and it's tough to get the cylinder off. Getting the unused part of the mandrel out of the way allows room for a needle file to clean up the chamfer
 

Stump Shot

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I turn down the area between where the bottoms of your 54 and 56mm bases reach on your mandrel. Say your cylinder uses 3" of mandrel on each end of a 10" mandrel. That's 6" total. You have 4" in the middle that's unused. I turn that area down about 1/4", plus about 1/4" up into the cylinder area. It leaves room for a triangle shaped carbide to cut the chamfer. Sometimes it still leaves a burr in the nikasil and it's tough to get the cylinder off. Getting the unused part of the mandrel out of the way allows room for a needle file to clean up the chamfer


Good to know, will do next time when it's for reals.
 

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Slammed her back together again. Now the flywheel hits the Cross logo. Squish with a paper gasket is .0245" one side, .0255" the other. So the band is out of square only .001". Might be I can sand it a bit with the mandrel. Otherwise it came in spot on for target of .025" finish squish.
Free port is at .047" on the exhaust port. Think I will try turning one more piston to see if this can be tightened up or eliminated. There is a little play at BDC between the crank and piston skirts. Not sure how tight this can be made, reckon I'll find out though.
Hopefully the crankcase can stay together now.

IMG_20170727_204556687.jpg
 
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