Husqvarna 350/346 Repair Thread.

[Onan18]

Is the 198 a direct bolt on or are there other pieces/modifications needed? I take it that carb has a bit more flow than the stocker?

You can use the stock intake setup but you have to open up the filter holder at the carb some or the choke will hang.

 

[Dub11]

I use the 350/346 boot, it fits the cylinder better and the ooening on the cylinder side is actually larger than the 357 boot for some reason.

So let me get this down one more time.

You want to use the 346 boot then the 198 carb with the 357 filter holder and filter?

 

[Onan18]

So let me get this down one more time.

You want to use the 346 boot then the 198 carb with the 357 filter holder and filter?

Sir Yes Sir.

 

[Dub11]

Sir Yes Sir.

Right on.

 

[J. Dirt]

You can use the stock intake setup but you hace to open up the filter holder at the carb some or the choke will hang.

Easy enough to remedy

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

So...., back to saving my buddy 20 bux... (Been on the back burner since the last time I annoyed you guys. LOL )

I actually managed to salvage the bearings and seals on the 350 that I'm also trying to salvage as economically as possible. Had one helluva time getting the bottom end to seal, tho..., even after grinding down the ends of the fasteners just to have that covered. Getting the previous pinches in the bearing holders lined back up with the seam between the cup and case when there's Dirko smeared all over em was the tricky part. Took a few stabs at it but the case held pressure all night. Still has a very small vac leak which doesn't seam to be the crank seals according to the grease test. About the only other place flexible enough to seal with pressure but leak with vac would be the impulse arrangement unless I'm overlooking something else. Think I'll see how it runs before chasing it too much further since it does hold at 4 ~ 5 inHg which should be enough to run the pump diaphragm. (Not sure what that spec would be if there even is one.) I actually did think about using a little Dirko for the impulse connections but felt I had a good fit without it and have never had any issues with these before. Anyone use sealant for these impulse connections?

Otherwise another successful intake bulkhead 'trim and fit' with a universal CV joint clamp. Works like a charm every time and is so butt simple it's stupid. (Yeah, right up my alley!) My last clamp or I'd go ahead and cut it off and smear some goo on the impulse connection to the intake flange just because.

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And speaking of bottom end leaks on these and bearing cover pinches, @Tor R posted this pic on Sawhawgz. It's a modification to the older cups to allow the bearing cover some pinch space so the surfaces properly seal instead of actually having a gap due to the rubber bunching up or squeezing out between the cup and case. There's still enough surface beside the bevel on the outside for a good seal, but also some room for the bearing cover rubber to squeeze out instead of bunching up. (The case also needs the corresponding mod.) Evidently the design was eventually changed to reflect this, but earlier saws suffered leaks as a result of the issue. Was wondering if anyone has tried this or has noticed the differences between earlier and later versions of the cups and cases. Apparently the issue wasn't corrected until 2001, so that leaves quite a few of these saws out there that could possibly benefit from this simple mod. Maybe Tor will chime in with some additional info. Certainly worth checking your next 340/345/350 rebuild to see what you have and whether it could possibly benefit from this simple modification. Probably also worth checking any aftermarket bearing cups you may get with some of the rebuild kits.

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[Sty57]

So let me get this down one more time.

You want to use the 346 boot then the 198 carb with the 357 filter holder and filter?

Don't be a wuss........ HD12 and a 372 boot.

 

[Dub11]

Don't be a wuss........ HD12 and a 372 boot.

I'm saving that action for a 2152. Not this plastic crap.

 

[BigYoung]

tagged

 

[NPKenny]

.

View attachment 147334
Modified bearing holder, all that is really necessary is to grind in the notch in the center. But while you have the burrs out anyways...

I’ve built a 346 /350 and hogged out this bearing holder similar to that pictured; basically case matching the cylinder. I’ve had regrets since and keep thinking I should go back in and fill in the space with JB Weld to decrease case volume. My saw runs great, but is lower RPM than I expected... Thoughts on decreasing case volume here?

 

[Stump Shot]

I’ve built a 346 /350 and hogged out this bearing holder similar to that pictured; basically case matching the cylinder. I’ve had regrets since and keep thinking I should go back in and fill in the space with JB Weld to decrease case volume. My saw runs great, but is lower RPM than I expected... Thoughts on decreasing case volume here?

That particular mod has been done plenty enough to warrant saying that's not the reason for your low rpm issue I believe.

 

[huskihl]

I’ve built a 346 /350 and hogged out this bearing holder similar to that pictured; basically case matching the cylinder. I’ve had regrets since and keep thinking I should go back in and fill in the space with JB Weld to decrease case volume. My saw runs great, but is lower RPM than I expected... Thoughts on decreasing case volume here?

Smooth out the square corners to promote flow. Might help, might not.

No problem with rpm in this one. But I did consider filling them before I ran it.

 

[huskyboy]

I’ve built a 346 /350 and hogged out this bearing holder similar to that pictured; basically case matching the cylinder. I’ve had regrets since and keep thinking I should go back in and fill in the space with JB Weld to decrease case volume. My saw runs great, but is lower RPM than I expected... Thoughts on decreasing case volume here?

I ran my 350/346 with two different bearing caps, first... one with the division ground out and then with one with it left in. The saw ran noticeably stronger with the division left in. This is a stock cylinder not ported however. Interestingly the 346 cylinder lowers match perfectly to the 350 bearing cap, even the divider.

 

[huskyboy]

I would suggest to anyone with these saws not to use the 350 bearing cap with the coarse thread cylinder screws with the 346 cylinder. The saw broke off the cylinder screws 2 or 3 times until I swapped a later model fine thread bearing cap on it. The fine thread screws are stronger and fixed the problem. Make sure they don’t bottom out before the cylinder tightens as well.

 

[huskyboy]

A guy could tap and put inserts in a coarse thread cap too for fine thread cylinder screws too, just another option. The big coarse thread screws on the bottom seem to be ok since they are larger and stronger than the cylinder screws.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Lads I'm doing an early (2000) 350 and it's cap and case are NOT bevelled. Anyone scraped, sanded, filed or otherwise a bevel into the components successfully?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Whatever you have handy should work..., some methods better than others, of course. I would use a raker gauge file or a suitable Dremel attachment myself. Uniformity is less critical than the space created, provided it isn't excessive to the extent of affecting the desired sealing surfaces -- obviously. As illustrated previously, very little material needs removed for the rubber to not get pinched in the seam. Those pics were of a factory bevel.

BTW, it's good to see an actual example of the non-beveled parts for comparison.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Ok. Risers.
I'm in the fortunate position to have a box of H350 bits here now that includes 6 risers. So here we go....
00 tagged saw. Coarse fasteners top and bottom. No relief bevel. Can be id'd on a case by shallow relief cast as shown by pointer. Also cast 'H' in base near part no. The part no is the Same right through.

The next iteration appears to be seal bevel, but still coarse fasteners both sides. Now a 'K' casting with deeper top reliefs.

Pic limit. Next post.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Version 3?
Coarse bottom, Fine top for the fasteners. K casting. Seal bevel, deep top relief.

And finally, as found on an 06 tagged saw, the Holy Grail of risers so to speak.
Fine threads top and bottom, seal bevel. K casting. Deep top relief.

Now the only way I can see to differentiate this casting from all the others is this tiny 'v' cast into the corner along from that same old serial number that is found on all the others. Bottom left in the pic.

So hope that helps someone...

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Sorry, this pic might be handy too.
All the bevelled seal caps have this deeper relief casting over the earliest version.
Unfortunately it's presence tells you nothing about the fastener situation.