Husqvarna 350/346 Repair Thread.

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks for the input. Sounds good to me.

But I haven't found an OEM part number for the seals/retainer only..., just the 503 93 23-02 bearing cage assembly with retainer and seal combined.

What's your preferred method of getting the bearing into the retainer? The hammer approach seems a little extreme for what appears to be a fairly precision fit from what I'm seeing with the old ones.

 

[PA Dan]

Thanks Joe...forgot what thread I was in. [emoji16]

 

[Onan18]

Thanks for the input. Sounds good to me.

But I haven't found an OEM part number for the seals/retainer only..., just the 503 93 23-02 bearing cage assembly with retainer and seal combined.

What's your preferred method of getting the bearing into the retainer? The hammer approach seems a little extreme for what appears to be a fairly precision fit from what I'm seeing with the old ones.

I only go with OEM on these, it is overpriced but too much work to have to do it twice, the second time for free.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The seal is not available without a bearing from Husqvarna on the 350 Dan.

Just missed that..., and would certainly explain the lack of a part number. How about decent quality aftermarket alternatives?

 

[PA Dan]

This is where I would not look at an aftermarket part. Trying to think what saw I ran into this on. Hey Joe was it the 576 that had the same deal on the clutch side bearing/seal?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I only go with OEM on these, it is overpriced but too much work to have to do it twice, the second time for free.

Just missed that, too. LOL

And not to be contentious...

But it's hard to justify $60 just for bearings when trying to salvage one of these saws for someone who bought it for the economy factor in the first place..., especially when the muffler already fell off and the intake is a disaster waiting to happen. And that's if the top end hasn't already burned up or the bottom end was actually sealed properly to begin with.

I'd also use Nachi or SKF bearings any day on any saw if I could get decent seals..., especially for one of these series Huskys.

 

[Onan18]

Just missed that..., and would certainly explain the lack of a part number. How about decent quality aftermarket alternatives?

Oxymoron.

 

[Onan18]

This is where I would not look at an aftermarket part. Trying to think what saw I ran into this on. Hey Joe was it the 576 that had the same deal on the clutch side bearing/seal?

Yes Sir

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Didn't want to get into a wee-wee contest over aftermarket vs. oem with this. Was asking for opinions about the aftermarket solutions that are out there, not how they compare to OEM. These saws are basically crap out of the box anyway, so what's wrong with looking at aftermarket solutions to at least get a guy's saw back to his woodpile as economically as possible..., especially in the case of one of these saws? A 346XP for a tree service would certainly be a different story. But it's also quite a different saw out of the box.

I'm sure as hell not impressed by the OEM junk I'm pulling off of this latest 350 as it sits right now. Their problems out of the box are already well documented. May as well have used the cheapest aftermarket parts available when they built em. Probably last longer!

But $60 for bearings and seals for one of these saws is ridiculous. Makes Stihl prices look reasonable.

 

[Onan18]

I believe I was told once that SKF makes a seal that will work. No idea on the part number or cost, but I am sure it is not cheap. I can buy SKF bearings ridiculously cheap, less that $4.00 EA. for 6202 C3s. But even then, by the time you buy bearings, and the seals (I want to say they were ~$15.00 EA. at the time) you really are only saving $20.00, if that. Just my opinion.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I hear ya, but $20 is $20 when you're talking about a total tear down and rebuild on a cheaper saw regardless of what it is. The labor alone barely makes it worthwhile unless the top end is still good, which it is in this particular situation.

The SKF solution on ebay that I mentioned earlier was even more expensive than OEM with Farmertec seals..., basically less than $10 per side if buying the F-tec seals and SKF bearings separately. Robbery.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-Cranks...h=item1eee3c6ab3:g:dpMAAOSwU1Nb4QeC:rk:6:pf:0

Even some of the other aftermarket solutions are approaching the OEM cost. Still, I'd put money on the seals all coming from the same source and the bearings probably being the cheap Asian bearings for most of em.

I have zero problem using Nachis or SKF's over 'OEM' in any saw and usually do when I can. Usually cuts cost by at least $20~$25 and in some cases is actually an upgrade in quality.

I'm simply curious about the AM seals for what is actually a pretty silly design in the first place..., and tryin' to save a guy some money who doesn't have much. That's all.

 

[NCPT]

I hear ya, but $20 is $20 when you're talking about a total tear down and rebuild on a cheaper saw regardless of what it is. The labor alone barely makes it worthwhile unless the top end is still good, which it is in this particular situation.

The SKF solution on ebay that I mentioned earlier was even more expensive than OEM with Farmertec seals..., basically less than $10 per side if buying the F-tec seals and SKF bearings separately. Robbery.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-Cranks...h=item1eee3c6ab3:g:dpMAAOSwU1Nb4QeC:rk:6:pf:0

Even some of the other aftermarket solutions are approaching the OEM cost. Still, I'd put money on the seals all coming from the same source and the bearings probably being the cheap Asian bearings for most of em.

I have zero problem using Nachis or SKF's over 'OEM' in any saw and usually do when I can. Usually cuts cost by at least $20~$25 and in some cases is actually an upgrade in quality.

I'm simply curious about the AM seals for what is actually a pretty silly design in the first place..., and tryin' to save a guy some money who doesn't have much. That's all.

No offense buddy, but just get the cheap AM seals and bearings, install them, and tell us how great they worked for you. No need to keep going on about saving $20 bucks.

 

[J. Dirt]

Kind of glad to see this in the thread, sort of
Since some genius (me) just bought that eBay set without realizing the seals were not by skf!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

No offense buddy, but just get the cheap AM seals and bearings, install them, and tell us how great they worked for you. No need to keep going on about saving $20 bucks.

Yay! A vote for aftermarket seals! Now read this again...

..., and tryin' to save a guy some money who doesn't have much. That's all.

Sorry if that was over your head.

Kind of glad to see this in the thread, sort of
Since some genius (me) just bought that eBay set without realizing the seals were not by skf!

Well look at the bright side. At least you got some real expensive bearings, too!

 

[NCPT]

Yay! A vote for aftermarket seals! Now read this again...



Sorry if that was over your head.



Well look at the bright side. At least you got some real expensive bearings, too!

Like I said, no offense. You have been given solid advice from the OP.....buy once, cry once.

 

[J. Dirt]

On that note @Onan18 did you get your 350/346 wrapped up? I would figure you did. Is there any reason to go to different carb set ups or intake modifications to support the 346 top end?

 

[Onan18]

View attachment 157960
On that note @Onan18 did you get your 350/346 wrapped up? I would figure you did. Is there any reason to go to different carb set ups or intake modifications to support the 346 top end?

Yes that saw was buttoned up that day. I did end up putting a new HDA-198-1 (357/369 carb) on it because the original Zama would not hold pop off pressure and I can buy the 198 cheaper than the original carb. It is not necessary to change the carb or intake tract with a 350 to 346 cylinder swap but it is a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[J. Dirt]

Is the 198 a direct bolt on or are there other pieces/modifications needed? I take it that carb has a bit more flow than the stocker?

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Is the 198 a direct bolt on or are there other pieces/modifications needed? I take it that carb has a bit more flow than the stocker?

It is a direct bolt in but it would be kind of counter productive to put a larger carb in a stock intake tract. The air inlet and intake manifold are both smaller than the carb diameter.

 

[Onan18]

It is a direct bolt in but it would be kind of counter productive to put a larger carb in a stock intake tract. The air inlet and intake manifold are both smaller than the carb diameter.

I use the 350/346 boot, it fits the cylinder better and the opening on the cylinder side is actually larger than the 357 boot for some reason.