how about a Oklahoma,AR,MO,KS,TX,+IA GTG thread?

[MG2186]

Good Lord, we finally got a darn good rain... I was planning on doing some cutting today (with my day off) but may use it instead to catch up on chain sharpening and such.

On the Ford subject, to get/make the 6.0 in Dad's truck right, it took Studs, EGR delete, tuner. new oil cooler (x2...), redone FICM and glow plugs/controller. For performance/longevity, a 4" straight exhaust was added along with a FS2500 Oil and Sinister coolant bypass filters.

All of this "fixing" was around $4k... If I could do A 6.4, properly for the same or less, then I'd be interested in that!




6.4s are amazing when tuned right, I'm just leery of buying one on the edge of grand failure do to previous neglect/abuse, especially if some would-be John Force or Don Garlits owned it previously... Now, ANY engine could fall into that same category and I get that, but some seem to give a bit more warning before the take a huge dump on you...

That there is the problem, a lot of failures are do to crappy maintenance, and to john Force analogy because they are fast when tuned properly. I have a friend that works on diesel pickups for a living, mostly Fords and Dodges and few s Chevy's. He said 75% of the problems come from crap maintenance and neglect! When I buy a 6.4 truck, I will more than likely pull the motor right a way and just build it the way it needs to be done so I won't have to worry about it and what others have previously/potentially screwed up on it


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[Workshop]

That there is the problem, a lot of failures are do to crappy maintenance, and to john Force analogy because they are fast when tuned properly. I have a friend that works on diesel pickups for a living, mostly Fords and Dodges and few s Chevy's. He said 75% of the problems come from crap maintenance and neglect! When I buy a 6.4 truck, I will more than likely pull the motor right a way and just build it the way it needs to be done so I won't have to worry about it and what others have previously/potentially screwed up on it


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My nephew picked up 7.3 turbo diesel Excursion last summer. Runs really nice. I suspect it will probably be about 2 years before it starts breaking down and tearing up because of that mentality. It has some kind of "3 stage chip" in it to make it perform better so he drives it, most of the time, with his foot to the floor. It's a shame to see a nice vehicle abused like that.

 

[Ethan Hamby]

Chips can increase your mileage, longevity, and power if not abused lol

 

[Hedgerow]

525 pounds of torque @ 1600 RPM..

I'm good with that.

 

[Ethan Hamby]

Mileage goes up a lot on dodges with chips and the emissions *s-word removed

 

[Homelite410]

525 pounds of torque @ 1600 RPM..

I'm good with that.

Whatcha running @1600? The cat....

 

[Homelite410]

Picked this up for $100 today.

Sent from Hoskvarna Hills

Does that even run on single phase?

 

[Locust Cutter]

Is yours a '99 Matt?

The only other way I'd keep mine would be to rebuild the current engine with a balanced crank, forged rods, ceramic coated pistons, a terminator HPOP and a better cam/valve springs combo. Then, it would run the way I want. My '02 has the PMR rods in it and it's fuel timing is way late in order to protect them from bending. Consequently it really doesn't pull very well until about 1900-200 RPM and then runs out of steam around 2900 rpm. Coupled with the short gearing and it's more like driving a 2-stroke Detroit w/o the cool music and additional gears...

It gets the job done, but there are better ways and options. The '99 was the last good factory 7.3 w the forged rods. They develop power a lot earlier and generally run stronger.

 

[hoskvarna]

Does that even run on single phase?

Gotta check for sure, but was told that is the way it is set up.
Either way tank and 100ft of power cord is worth $.


Sent from Hoskvarna Hills

 

[Hedgerow]

Whatcha running @1600? The cat....

About 45 pounds it seems.. That motor is one tired bugger.

Is yours a '99 Matt?

The only other way I'd keep mine would be to rebuild the current engine with a balanced crank, forged rods, ceramic coated pistons, a terminator HPOP and a better cam/valve springs combo. Then, it would run the way I want. My '02 has the PMR rods in it and it's fuel timing is way late in order to protect them from bending. Consequently it really doesn't pull very well until about 1900-200 RPM and then runs out of steam around 2900 rpm. Coupled with the short gearing and it's more like driving a 2-stroke Detroit w/o the cool music and additional gears...

It gets the job done, but there are better ways and options. The '99 was the last good factory 7.3 w the forged rods. They develop power a lot earlier and generally run stronger.

It's a 2002.
Good runner, good fuel economy.
Makes best pulling power from 1500-1700.

 

[hoskvarna]

Here's the answer Mike.

Sent from Hoskvarna Hills

 

[plcnut]

Here's the answer Mike.

Sent from Hoskvarna Hills

That should be a smooth welding machine! It is old enough that it is probably all copper windings.

 

[hoskvarna]

That should be a smooth welding machine! It is old enough that it is probably all copper windings.

Yup she's copper [emoji106]


Sent from Hoskvarna Hills

 

[Homelite410]

Gotta check for sure, but was told that is the way it is set up.
Either way tank and 100ft of power cord is worth $.


Sent from Hoskvarna Hills

I agree.

 

[Homelite410]

The pics make it look huge like the Lincoln 400 that i used to run. But I see it is a 200 so single would be fine.

 

[67L36Driver]

Weather app says we got a tenth of precip. today.

I find that hard to believe.

We need one or two inches to settle the dust.

 

[MG2186]

About 45 pounds it seems.. That motor is one tired bugger.



It's a 2002.
Good runner, good fuel economy.
Makes best pulling power from 1500-1700.

I know lots of 7.3's running around with 350-400 hp with those cast rods and 300,000+ miles on them. I've never noticed any performance difference between the ones with the forged rods versus the ones without, we have a 96,99.5,&02


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[Hedgerow]

I know lots of 7.3's running around with 350-400 hp with those cast rods and 300,000+ miles on them. I've never noticed any performance difference between the ones with the forged rods versus the ones without, we have a 96,99.5,&02


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I have no Idea how much HP the old girl puts to the tires, but it sure can pull a hill better than the wife's 06 HD gasser. And that gasser ain't a slouch.

 

[hoskvarna]

The pics make it look huge like the Lincoln 400 that i used to run. But I see it is a 200 so single would be fine.

The pics don't lie Mike its the same size as the Miller 452's or the Lincoln's.
Old school/new school.


Sent from Hoskvarna Hills

 

[concretegrazer]

Is yours a '99 Matt?

The only other way I'd keep mine would be to rebuild the current engine with a balanced crank, forged rods, ceramic coated pistons, a terminator HPOP and a better cam/valve springs combo. Then, it would run the way I want. My '02 has the PMR rods in it and it's fuel timing is way late in order to protect them from bending. Consequently it really doesn't pull very well until about 1900-200 RPM and then runs out of steam around 2900 rpm. Coupled with the short gearing and it's more like driving a 2-stroke Detroit w/o the cool music and additional gears...

It gets the job done, but there are better ways and options. The '99 was the last good factory 7.3 w the forged rods. They develop power a lot earlier and generally run stronger.

That's not been my experience at all. My 03 pulls noticably better than the 99.