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how about a Oklahoma,AR,MO,KS,TX,+IA GTG thread?

Douglas Ostrander

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Is the kerf of the new stuff narrower?
Kerf is the same from my measurements. Grinder settings are different. CBN wheel is not an exact match. The EXL has a different shape. Plus the box no longer shows a 10 degree down angle but the angle is still in the chain cutter.



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48f5ddacd28e85f0df0aecd05ad70876.jpg
 

concretegrazer

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Kerf is the same from my measurements. Grinder settings are different. CBN wheel is not an exact match. The EXL has a different shape. Plus the box no longer shows a 10 degree down angle but the angle is still in the chain cutter.



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94f1b4137a42c9aaa47f6174bd497b36.jpg
48f5ddacd28e85f0df0aecd05ad70876.jpg

Have you put a file to it? Is the steal any harder?
 

Douglas Ostrander

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Is it just the angle of the grind or is the new cutter thicker in the gullet area?
Calipers say it the same thickness. Just angle of grind.
310188d0907eda8085be2c2c7311afbc.jpg



Edit: I did find the distance from the back of the racker to tip of the cutter is 0.020" further back on the 72EXL72. Could be just a different batch. More gullet. The cutter is same length and thickness on the outside.

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Hedgerow

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Calipers say it the same thickness. Just angle of grind.
310188d0907eda8085be2c2c7311afbc.jpg



Edit: I did find the distance from the back of the racker to tip of the cutter is 0.020" further back on the 72EXL72. Could be just a different batch. More gullet. The cutter is same length and thickness on the outside.

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Would be indicative of a larger radius grinding wheel at the factory.
Note how the LGX has a slight "beak" it appears. Where the x grind is a nice round radius. From working corner to gullet.
 

Douglas Ostrander

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Would be indicative of a larger radius grinding wheel at the factory.
Note how the LGX has a slight "beak" it appears. Where the x grind is a nice round radius. From working corner to gullet.

At lunch I went out and cut some bur oak with a new EXL chain. Found metal so I went in to test the grinding and filing. It is harder metal on the EXL. Even with a two different CBN wheels it burned easy. Plus was difficult to hand file.
 
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Dolmar Junkie

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At lunch I went out and cut some bur oak with a new EXL chain. Found metal so I went in to tested the grinding and filing. It is harder metal on the EXL. Even with a two different CBN wheels it burned easy. Plus was difficult to hand file.

Good information! I appreciate you getting us ahead of the game...
 

Hedgerow

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At lunch I went out and cut some bur oak with a new EXL chain. Found metal so I went in to tested the grinding and filing. It is harder metal on the EXL. Even with a two different CBN wheels it burned easy. Plus was difficult to hand file.
Guess I'd better get stocked up on LGX.
 

Douglas Ostrander

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Guess I'd better get stocked up on LGX.

After work I tried grinding the chain with the wheel I use for carbide chain (diamond). Worked great without burning the cutter. Its only a 4 inch diamond wheel. Steel wheel with diamond coating. Less velocity at the tip and more of a heat sink.
 
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Dolmar Junkie

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I think it would be better to use compressed air and blow on the cutter to cool it. I have read it doesn't take much air to keep the cutter cool.
Not sure what your grinder looks like or how it's set up, but if someone liked the EXL ,do you think it would be beneficial to permanently mount something like an 1/8" hard-line(similar to oil pressure gauge line)to the stand with a somewhat flexible tip to be able to adjust and move out of the way when not required, with perhaps a ball valve type regulation set up or am I over thinking it? I am not familiar with much grinding but would like to get a decent entry level grinder to speed up and make my sharpening more precise and efficient. Do you ever encounter other times ,besides just heavy handedness, that heat becomes an issue and the air would be beneficial ?
 

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Not sure what your grinder looks like or how it's set up, but if someone liked the EXL ,do you think it would be beneficial to permanently mount something like an 1/8" hard-line(similar to oil pressure gauge line)to the stand with a somewhat flexible tip to be able to adjust and move out of the way when not required, with perhaps a ball valve type regulation set up or am I over thinking it? I am not familiar with much grinding but would like to get a decent entry level grinder to speed up and make my sharpening more precise and efficient. Do you ever encounter other times ,besides just heavy handedness, that heat becomes an issue and the air would be beneficial ?

@Moparmyway has rigged up a compressed air cooler for his grinder. I forgot exactly how he did it.
 

Hedgerow

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I think it would be better to use compressed air and blow on the cutter to cool it. I have read it doesn't take much air to keep the cutter cool.
It don't..

Cool cutter after grinding.
Then lightly nip...
Annealed surface gone...
Problem solved.
 

Dolmar Junkie

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It's the Indian....

Not the arrow...
I am with you on that, but even the best Indians I imagine like a straight arrow...
Now I am in over my head, cause I don't know much about Indians or grinding!
But I'm paying attention...
 
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