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LAWN BOY

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My daily driver 2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD needed new rear rotors and pads like yesterday. It's been pitch black dark out a while now, I took these pics when I started. Coyotes are howling nearby. The one rotor got so worn that orange and silver shavings are stuck to one of my wheels, haven’t tried cleaning them off yet. The lower T55 bolt holding the caliper on is rusted in. I used lots of heat and penetrating fluid and muscle over the course of an hour. No luck. Will continue tomorrow.IMG_0020.jpegIMG_0021.jpegIMG_0022.jpeg
 

redline4

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My daily driver 2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD needed new rear rotors and pads like yesterday. It's been pitch black dark out a while now, I took these pics when I started. Coyotes are howling nearby. The one rotor got so worn that orange and silver shavings are stuck to one of my wheels, haven’t tried cleaning them off yet. The lower T55 bolt holding the caliper on is rusted in. I used lots of heat and penetrating fluid and muscle over the course of an hour. No luck. Will continue tomorrow.View attachment 439292View attachment 439293View attachment 439294


Before going further, use a prybar and see if you can push the pistons in. If not, caliper time.
If so, see if it moves on the pins.
If not, caliper time.
If replacing the caliper, no need to worry about the t55 pins that won't come out.
 

FergusonTO35

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I find that on a vehicle of that age, the surfaces of the caliper frame where the pads ride are nearly always deformed from wear and rust, causing the pads to stick. I hone the surfaces flat with a stone on an air grinder and apply high temp anti-seize compound.
 

LAWN BOY

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Before going further, use a prybar and see if you can push the pistons in. If not, caliper time.
If so, see if it moves on the pins.
If not, caliper time.
If replacing the caliper, no need to worry about the t55 pins that won't come out.
Thanks for the advice. I’m aiming to re-use the caliper.
I find that on a vehicle of that age, the surfaces of the caliper frame where the pads ride are nearly always deformed from wear and rust, causing the pads to stick. I hone the surfaces flat with a stone on an air grinder and apply high temp anti-seize compound.
Thank you.
 

Bigmac

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Thanks for the advice. I’m aiming to re-use the caliper.

Thank you.
Bro, be prepared to need calipers! My Silverado, which has lived a little nicer life, and live in a little easier climate , and all the bolts came off easily, still the caliber for the rearIMG_6289.jpegIMG_2750.jpegIMG_4505.jpegIMG_5690.jpegIMG_5520.jpeg
 

Shane¹

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I agree with @redline4 if the piston doesn't go back in you need a caliper whether you were planning on it or not. Where just one side is grinding chances are you could need a caliper. Also @FergusonTO35 is correct make sure the pads move in the brackets they rust up and stick you will want to clean them and put some grease on them
 

Woodslasher

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Just get a pair of vice grips and crimp the line.you've got 3 more that work ROLL ON BIG MOMMA 🚛
A neighbor told me a story from back when he was in his late teens along those lines. He and his dad took his truck up to hunting camp and a buddy tagged along in his own rig. They get to camp and his dad hops out of the truck, starts stretching, and stops to look at something behind the front pass tire. "Your brake line is folded over and pinched off with vice grips!" "Yeah, the hard line tore so I pinched it shut until I get a new one" His dad then looks towards the back end of the truck. "You've got a set of vice grips pinching off the soft line for the rear brakes!!!" "Yeah, one of the rear wheel cylinders failed and I haven't figured out which yet." His dad rode back in the buddy's truck.
 
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