Grease Monkey Garage

[redline4]

Looking good. You gonna be running an oem TB or an AM? Drive by cable in guessing?

Wire.
I've got an oem throttle body off a 6.2 I'm going to go with.
Currently just going to keep the truck intake. It's not the most asthetically appealing but from what I've read, the affordable fabricated manifolds tend to kill the bottom end power.

 

[redline4]

Drive by wire plus transmission control.

 

[redline4]

No call to Jeg's required..
Fan shroud showed up today.


The universal fans will look pretty good provided I drill the mounting holes in a semi straight manner..


Plenty of room to the engine.


I'll need to space the radiator out from the support due to the tank wanting to contact the support.
No biggie. I'll try to find some type of black plastic strip to fill that gap.


I'll have to lightly hit the lower mounting holes as the slots are maybe 1/16" low to match up with the bolt holes, but overall, I'm happy with this Champion unit for the cost. Looks just as nice as the $1500 radiators.

 

[redline4]

Found some plastic bars from McMaster-Carr that should space the radiator perfectly.
Everything is just loosely assembled now.

 

[Mack 880]

Got my oil analysis report back on my "new" truck. Iron is high, but the suspect is the broken spring.

Will re-sample after a normal oil change interval and see what the number look like.

 

[redline4]

Got the fuel pump in. Need fittings for lines and to make a wiring pigtail.


After a bunch of reading and number crunching and so on and so forth, I think I'm going nylon for the fuel lines.
Fittings are cheaper. It's easy to work with. I have access to all the stuff to make the lines and the quick connect fittings at work.
Lines themselves are more compact which gives me more room routing them to the front.
I work with the stuff regularly.
It supports the HP levels of Corvette Z06's and the Camaro ZL1. It will feed my cammed 5.3 sufficiently I figure.

 

[Shane¹]

Got the fuel pump in. Need fittings for lines and to make a wiring pigtail.
View attachment 436180View attachment 436181View attachment 436182View attachment 436183

After a bunch of reading and number crunching and so on and so forth, I think I'm going nylon for the fuel lines.
Fittings are cheaper. It's easy to work with. I have access to all the stuff to make the lines and the quick connect fittings at work.
Lines themselves are more compact which gives me more room routing them to the front.
I work with the stuff regularly.
It supports the HP levels of Corvette Z06's and the Camaro ZL1. It will feed my cammed 5.3 sufficiently I figure.

Do you have the ability to make the metal side push connects too? I love my hydraulic flaring tool it makes some really cool stuff

 

[redline4]

Do you have the ability to make the metal side push connects too? I love my hydraulic flaring tool it makes some really cool stuff

I'm not sure which connector your referring to.

 

[redline4]

Looks like a chunk from the Tahoe upper hose will give me something to take to the parts store in search of a hose..


And I'll have to wing it with my wire template for a lower..

 

[Shane¹]

Looks like a chunk from the Tahoe upper hose will give me something to take to the parts store in search of a hose..
View attachment 436190

And I'll have to wing it with my wire template for a lower..
View attachment 436191

This is what I used on my cj7 lower looks pretty close to yours

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Looks like a chunk from the Tahoe upper hose will give me something to take to the parts store in search of a hose..
View attachment 436190

And I'll have to wing it with my wire template for a lower..
View attachment 436191

LS1 F body lower rad hose should be real close fit

 

[redline4]

lol sorry

This is what I used on my cj7 lower looks pretty close to yours
View attachment 436205

View attachment 436206

LS1 F body lower rad hose should be real close fit

Thanks. Gives me something to go off of.
Luckily the manager of the local O'Reilly is pretty good.

Got 2 pieces on the way from McMaster-Carr to make spacers for the radiator. Until then, stacked washers will do.

 

[Woodslasher]

While modifying a fitting on the Cruiser radiator I noticed this in the old fitting. A+ for penetration, C for flow. On a related note, the engine is back in the car and resting on it's mounts once again.

 

[redline4]

Looks like I might be getting an intake after all.
It's very close to the hood. The throttle body has maybe 1/4" clearance.


Many of the aftermarket intakes say drive by cable throttle body only.
Some don't specify.
I really can't figure why a intake would work with a cable throttle but not a drive by wire..

 

[redline4]

Got the intake.

 

[Hoser]

Anyone got any tricks for doing a brake light switch on a 96 Chevy k1500?

 

[Hoser]

Disregard. Got er done. Pick kit was essential.

 

[davidwyby]

I hate to tell you this but dodges are junk

Alt just smoked out

In my driveway

Better than 600 miles away at @Woodslasher ’s or somewhere between

 

[redline4]

My only complaint so far on the Holley terminator is that is requires a certain accelerator pedal, throttle body and a manifold temp sensor that they don't tell you about until you read the instructions.

Because I'm using drive by wire, there's a few connections I don't use. I'm thinking once I get the engine to start, I'll disassemble the harness and remove/relocate those leads to hide them. The harness is not finish routed in these pics. Just trying layouts and seeing how it's going to work..

 

[davidwyby]

When you finish that I have this LeMans down here...