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Redfin

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We have anyone that knows their way around a 4l80e?

Think I just shat second gear in the one I rebuilt this past fall. Think the intermediate sprag let loose. :nusenuse:

First gear is good then it revs high tries to engage 2nd, slips then shifts early into third, get up to speed and shifts to fouth fine. Tc engages and disengages as it should. Down shifts fine from fourth to third, third to second is like a double bump. Prob because second isn't there and it's dropping from third to first. Spent all day running a scanner and changing out shift solinoids, accumulators, springs and then finally the whole valve body. No change. No codes whatsoever the whole time.

1998 k2500 suburban 7.4


Steven
Cald my buddy with trans shop. He says its pointing to intermediate sprag clutch.135AAB26-E4FB-481B-A894-2EB2429E6909.png
 

Stevetheboatguy

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Steve, if you've got no second in that, figuring the intermediate sprag shat the bed is quite likely the culprit.
It's the only thing holding in second gear that's overrun or not used in other ranges.

If you have any more questions, shoot me a text.

Cald my buddy with trans shop. He says its pointing to intermediate sprag clutch.View attachment 331021

Yeah..... I had a feeling that there wouldn't be a chance of a easier fix.

I'll yank it and rebuild it with parts from my normal source this time. Think I got some repackaged crap from the shop i used this last time.

Not the first trans I have rebuilt. And it lasted close to 9k. So I'm pretty sure it wasn't something I did, but anything is possible. Find out what let loose when I tear it down.

Thanks guys


Steven
 

Stevetheboatguy

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@Redfin @redline4 and wth might as well tag @Steve

So...... I learned something new. TAPS. They are very important stuff. The TAP values for whatever reason went way outta wack on my burb. I reset them and drove it around. Stopping and running up to 70ish. At various throttle pressure. After about 10 cycles it was shifting like new. I never knew about the transmission adapive pressure system being that important. But basically it was over pressurizing and holding first for way too long and had a 3 second shift delay. Causing it to essentially lock out second gear.

Only reason I found all this..... I took it out to beat the hell outta it and see if I could make it exploded. But found when I manually downshifted from third to second. It held second good and firm. Wtf was that about I thought. I couldn't get it to upshift to 2nd ever, but I was able to force downshift???? I was puzzled. I remembered catching a blurb on a Allison trans site about the TAPS. So I grabbed my scanner as sure enough it has the option to view and reset them.

Not holding my breath, but damn would it be nice to not have to yank it out.

Hindsight I wish I knew I could have reset them from day one. And going forward I will be resetting them every time I do a trans from here on out.

Going to run it around a few days and see what happens.


Steven
 

redline4

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@Redfin @redline4 and wth might as well tag @Steve

So...... I learned something new. TAPS. They are very important stuff. The TAP values for whatever reason went way outta wack on my burb. I reset them and drove it around. Stopping and running up to 70ish. At various throttle pressure. After about 10 cycles it was shifting like new. I never knew about the transmission adapive pressure system being that important. But basically it was over pressurizing and holding first for way too long and had a 3 second shift delay. Causing it to essentially lock out second gear.

Only reason I found all this..... I took it out to beat the hell outta it and see if I could make it exploded. But found when I manually downshifted from third to second. It held second good and firm. Wtf was that about I thought. I couldn't get it to upshift to 2nd ever, but I was able to force downshift???? I was puzzled. I remembered catching a blurb on a Allison trans site about the TAPS. So I grabbed my scanner as sure enough it has the option to view and reset them.

Not holding my breath, but damn would it be nice to not have to yank it out.

Hindsight I wish I knew I could have reset them from day one. And going forward I will be resetting them every time I do a trans from here on out.

Going to run it around a few days and see what happens.


Steven


That's interesting..
I never gave it a thought, clearing adapts after any internal repair is part of the job.
According to the General, one is to never reset them unless a repair is done.
I have however done it on vehicles that were purchased used that the customer has shift complaints, and 9 times out of 10 the car was used as a rental previously...
 

Steve

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@Redfin @redline4 and wth might as well tag @Steve

So...... I learned something new. TAPS. They are very important stuff. The TAP values for whatever reason went way outta wack on my burb. I reset them and drove it around. Stopping and running up to 70ish. At various throttle pressure. After about 10 cycles it was shifting like new. I never knew about the transmission adapive pressure system being that important. But basically it was over pressurizing and holding first for way too long and had a 3 second shift delay. Causing it to essentially lock out second gear.

Only reason I found all this..... I took it out to beat the hell outta it and see if I could make it exploded. But found when I manually downshifted from third to second. It held second good and firm. Wtf was that about I thought. I couldn't get it to upshift to 2nd ever, but I was able to force downshift???? I was puzzled. I remembered catching a blurb on a Allison trans site about the TAPS. So I grabbed my scanner as sure enough it has the option to view and reset them.

Not holding my breath, but damn would it be nice to not have to yank it out.

Hindsight I wish I knew I could have reset them from day one. And going forward I will be resetting them every time I do a trans from here on out.

Going to run it around a few days and see what happens.


Steven


I reset keep alive memory anytime I do an engine or trans maintenance on a Ford because they won't learn quick enough some times after repair and the customer is super sensitive to their car when the get it back.


Got my fingers crossed for you!
 

Stevetheboatguy

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Welp..... Can't trust it. Still not 100% right. Going to build a second and swap it out.

Interesting thing is the torque converter is likely the main culprit. But due to time constraints. I can't pull it and open it and be stuck waiting on parts. I build a second it's done deal fixed in a afternoon. Tear the one that's giving me fits down at my leisure and have it on hand for a spare.

Thinking about going with a torco rv/ towing converter this time. The Precision hd I used the first time isn't/wasn't very impressive. Anyone have input on a converter for heavy towing?


Steven
 

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20220319_081503.jpg 20220320_121045.jpgBrought this home from Colorado last weekend. Bought a 2008 F350 running gear today. Bought a 2004 freightliner fed ex van with 5.9 common rail cummins and allison trans two nights ago. Now just need a np205 divorced case and a year to put it all together.
 

jacob j.

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Woodslasher

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View attachment 331597 View attachment 331598Brought this home from Colorado last weekend. Bought a 2008 F350 running gear today. Bought a 2004 freightliner fed ex van with 5.9 common rail cummins and allison trans two nights ago. Now just need a np205 divorced case and a year to put it all together.
From an OCD bumpside nut's standpoint, that stuff ain't kosher. The brown bed has '67 and '69 specific reflectors under the tail lights, the side reflectors (if they use factory holes) are indicative of a '69, but the CUSTOM badges are 70-72 only. However, the bed doesn't have the bump terminate in lights, so it's a '67-'69 bed. Also, you have 70-72 tags on the cab cowl and a 70-72 grill, but the bed is a '67-'69, I'm guessing '68. My petty nit-picking aside, that sounds like the start of a pretty *b-wordin' project!

On a side note, my brother's '69 has been professionally painted and all it needs to be street legal/safe is a new front window, the rear window needs to be re-installed, and there's a few electrical gremlins that need to be hunted down. I'm pretty happy to see it come this far and I can't wait for it to be finished. From a pretty standpoint it also needs to have the tailgate lettering painted black, it needs a few of the plastic grommet thingys that snap into sheet metal so you can screw down the trim bits, the seat needs a cover, and one day it'll get the cargo light re-installed. The photos make the paint look dark, but you can see the bright candy apple red color on the front end of the bed in the last pic.
IMG_0324.JPG IMG_0326.JPG
 

Tbrown

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From an OCD bumpside nut's standpoint, that stuff ain't kosher. The brown bed has '67 and '69 specific reflectors under the tail lights, the side reflectors (if they use factory holes) are indicative of a '69, but the CUSTOM badges are 70-72 only. However, the bed doesn't have the bump terminate in lights, so it's a '67-'69 bed. Also, you have 70-72 tags on the cab cowl and a 70-72 grill, but the bed is a '67-'69, I'm guessing '68. My petty nit-picking aside, that sounds like the start of a pretty *b-wordin' project!

On a side note, my brother's '69 has been professionally painted and all it needs to be street legal/safe is a new front window, the rear window needs to be re-installed, and there's a few electrical gremlins that need to be hunted down. I'm pretty happy to see it come this far and I can't wait for it to be finished. From a pretty standpoint it also needs to have the tailgate lettering painted black, it needs a few of the plastic grommet thingys that snap into sheet metal so you can screw down the trim bits, the seat needs a cover, and one day it'll get the cargo light re-installed. The photos make the paint look dark, but you can see the bright candy apple red color on the front end of the bed in the last pic.
View attachment 331733 View attachment 331734
You are correct on all counts. The truck is a 72 crew cab n chassis truck. Someone put an earlier box on it. I grabbed the other box from the guy for parts. It was on his 67. I found a clean 72 f100 that I'm going to get Friday hopefully. This will make the crew all 72 correct. Not that it matters to me that much. 99.986% of people would never know. But I'd like to make the .014% happy, and what they think is more important. Wife and I decided today I am sticking with the factory bahama blue. Possible two tone with white. Not sure on that yet.
 

chiselbit

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From an OCD bumpside nut's standpoint, that stuff ain't kosher. The brown bed has '67 and '69 specific reflectors under the tail lights, the side reflectors (if they use factory holes) are indicative of a '69, but the CUSTOM badges are 70-72 only. However, the bed doesn't have the bump terminate in lights, so it's a '67-'69 bed. Also, you have 70-72 tags on the cab cowl and a 70-72 grill, but the bed is a '67-'69, I'm guessing '68. My petty nit-picking aside, that sounds like the start of a pretty *b-wordin' project!

On a side note, my brother's '69 has been professionally painted and all it needs to be street legal/safe is a new front window, the rear window needs to be re-installed, and there's a few electrical gremlins that need to be hunted down. I'm pretty happy to see it come this far and I can't wait for it to be finished. From a pretty standpoint it also needs to have the tailgate lettering painted black, it needs a few of the plastic grommet thingys that snap into sheet metal so you can screw down the trim bits, the seat needs a cover, and one day it'll get the cargo light re-installed. The photos make the paint look dark, but you can see the bright candy apple red color on the front end of the bed in the last pic.
View attachment 331733 View attachment 331734
From an OCD bumpside nut's standpoint, that stuff ain't kosher. The brown bed has '67 and '69 specific reflectors under the tail lights, the side reflectors (if they use factory holes) are indicative of a '69, but the CUSTOM badges are 70-72 only. However, the bed doesn't have the bump terminate in lights, so it's a '67-'69 bed. Also, you have 70-72 tags on the cab cowl and a 70-72 grill, but the bed is a '67-'69, I'm guessing '68. My petty nit-picking aside, that sounds like the start of a pretty *b-wordin' project!

On a side note, my brother's '69 has been professionally painted and all it needs to be street legal/safe is a new front window, the rear window needs to be re-installed, and there's a few electrical gremlins that need to be hunted down. I'm pretty happy to see it come this far and I can't wait for it to be finished. From a pretty standpoint it also needs to have the tailgate lettering painted black, it needs a few of the plastic grommet thingys that snap into sheet metal so you can screw down the trim bits, the seat needs a cover, and one day it'll get the cargo light re-installed. The photos make the paint look dark, but you can see the bright candy apple red color on the front end of the bed in the last pic.
View attachment 331733 View attachment 331734
ECD901A5-C200-4C5F-89E9-DBBBB3E0D5CF.jpeg
 

Canadian farm boy

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Got the diff back from sandblasting. Gonna weld on the lower control arm relocation brackets and weld the axle tubes to the center section tomorrow. The factory plug welds are known to bust loose and let the axle tubes spin. Hopefully I’ll get it all painted this week before any rust starts to form. Then I can actually rebuild it.65836F3D-D482-415F-A08F-E84CF5D0A10A.jpeg52195883-5319-4BBD-9DE3-4B412D193360.jpeg 9DA2F3F6-3F9A-4240-B48C-982E824BBB2D.jpeg
 
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