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Sloughfoot

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I only bought it for the hour meter function, saws don’t need tachs you are right there, but since it’s a 2 in 1 hour meter with a tach all in the same size, it’s really a no brainer to get the dual feature hour meter with tach just for the heck of it, I really wanted to mount the hour meter under the cover out of sight, but Stihl used every single bit of space, so there’s no extra room under the cover. If and when something happens to this saw though, break down, or won’t start, anything, I will know how many hours are on it, or for just general maintenance and replacing things at intervals. I have read Stihl Pro saws can run 2,000 hours. So I’m very curious to know some years from now. Same reason why I went with no Mtronic lol. I was thinking the manual carb adjust models have no extra points of possible failure.

Anyways, I have been thinking about 3/8 chains and using a longer bar. But it’s just a 261, so I don’t know how well it would handle all of that? I always thought 20” and .325 was the limits for a MS261 for a long life span. But I wouldn’t mind a 25” bar.
See how low you can go with the rakers and still maintain optimal 10k to 11k rpm (or whatever the number with a 261) in wood with the .325 20" that you have. If it handles 40 thousandths or lower, should handle 3/8ths at 25 thousandths on a 20" bar and/or .325 on a 24"/25" bar.
 

tps3443

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See how low you can go with the rakers and still maintain optimal 10k to 11k rpm (or whatever the number with a 261) in wood with the .325 20" that you have. If it handles 40 thousandths or lower, should handle 3/8ths at 25 thousandths on a 20" bar and/or .325 on a 24"/25" bar.

I want a 3/8 yellow bar just for the superior oiling hole. If you look at the oiling holes on my green .325 20” Stihl bar. It is just a straight tiny hole. The oiling hole on the Yellow 3/8 bars have that ematic s system, the hole actually is beveled and angled so oil can reach it better and it actually matches the shape of the oil delivery on my 261 power head even if it’s not lined up perfectly.
 

tps3443

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Can anyone chime on sprocket teeth? I’m looking at 325 and 3/8 sprockets with more or less teeth. I see 3/8-7 and 3/8-6 or 3/8-9. More teeth improves the torque and acceleration right? While less teeth would result in a faster chain speed?
 

farminkarman

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Can anyone chime on sprocket teeth? I’m looking at 325 and 3/8 sprockets with more or less teeth. I see 3/8-7 and 3/8-6 or 3/8-9. More teeth improves the torque and acceleration right? While less teeth would result in a faster chain speed?
A 3/8-7 is kinda standard. 3/8-8 will move the chain one more drive link per crank revolution = faster chain speed.
 

the 28inch mac man

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Can anyone chime on sprocket teeth? I’m looking at 325 and 3/8 sprockets with more or less teeth. I see 3/8-7 and 3/8-6 or 3/8-9. More teeth improves the torque and acceleration right? While less teeth would result in a faster chain speed?
I'll check and see what is on my 026 tomorrow. The sprocket/bar/chain on that saw is perfect. The saw screams in cut if I turn it up (I don't run it up there) with .40 rakers. I'm cutting 16 inch hard wood with the tiny 49cc saw and it rips! If I was you, I would try to find a windsor bar on ebay. They are much less expensive and are much better than stock stihl bars.
 

the 28inch mac man

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I'll check and see what is on my 026 tomorrow. The sprocket/bar/chain on that saw is perfect. The saw screams in cut if I turn it up (I don't run it up there) with .40 rakers. I'm cutting 16 inch hard wood with the tiny 49cc saw and it rips! If I was you, I would try to find a windsor bar on ebay. They are much less expensive and are much better than stock stihl bars.
The sprocket on my 026 is a 7 tooth. That saw runs full comp 3/8 with .40 rakers no problem in hard wood.
 

tps3443

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Next things to do are:

(1) Base gasket delete for higher compression.
(2) Egan UniFilter kit for 261.
(3) Maybe a custom muffler.

Seems like all this would really open the saw up.
 

OnlyStihl

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Next things to do are:

(1) Base gasket delete for higher compression.
(2) Egan UniFilter kit for 261.
(3) Maybe a custom muffler.

Seems like all this would really open the saw up.

Leave it alone. If you need more power, buy a bigger saw. The ms400 is even more amazing.
 

the 28inch mac man

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(4) advance timing
I like the idea of a base gaskit delete. You fill get more grunt+ more compression. A better muffler would be a great idea to. If you are in this far I would enlarge the transfer ports a little bit. Half of porting is incressing air flow by cleaning up rough surfaces. And/or buy a 044!
 

OnlyStihl

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Okay, don’t need more power. I just have an obsession with performance and modification of things.

As always it is power vs longevity. It is a balance Stihl has created with engineering and testing. It is yours to unbalance. You'll see the greatest gain with the purchase of a 3/8 bar and chain. And keeping the chain sharp will see the most of what you wish.
 

the 28inch mac man

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As always it is power vs longevity. It is a balance Stihl has created with engineering and testing. It is yours to unbalance. You'll see the greatest gain with the purchase of a 3/8 bar and chain. And keeping the chain sharp will see the most of what you wish.
Porting/performance mods don't decrees longevity in less you run the saw lean. A good saw man can make a mod saw run for years. Buckin's super turned up 371 was ported 30+years ago. He runs the saw day in and day out and the saw is still in great shape.
 

tps3443

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I spent a good 25 minutes on tuning the saw today for the first time. My high speed is 100% all the way open, I cannot richen it up anymore (Factory Limiters in place on the carb) (If I install a filter or exhaust, it’s just gonna want more fuel, which I can’t give it) I saw max RPM of 13,860 most of the time with the High speed jet all the way out. I felt a moment where the saw actually started to open up and come to life revving higher and higher easier and easier! It was hitting 13.8K-13.9K and 4 stroking an easier and easier which more or less came out of no where! It was lovely, it seemed harder to rev before and didn’t 4 stroke all that much if at all. My low speed was too rich, and was causing some stalling every 3 out of 10 quick jab and release throttle presses. I leaned the low speed just a tap, and this fixed it. I can see just a little tiny bit of smoke when gassing slightly off idle, and it quickly returns back to idle and no stalling anymore.

I wish I could richer the high speed up just a little more honestly. It’s 4 stroking nicely, and reaches its limit of 13,860 rpm maybe 13,900 at times. But I think 13,500-13,700 would be more realistic for long term usage.

Anyways, what a nice saw! Went through almost a whole tank just idling, and mild revving with a few high RPM hits to check if it was too lean or not, my neighbors probably thought I was insane. Great running saw though! I have to give props to the Motomix fuel as well, that stuff has no smell/odor, doesn’t make your clothes stink at all, the exhaust fumes smell just like a candle burning. You could spill it on your hand and it’s almost nothing there, smells like alcohol or something 😂 amazing fuel. I can walk in from some lite sawing and have a seat in my chair, and my wife doesn’t even notice 🤯. My wife has a blood hound of a nose on her just sayn! 😆
 
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the 28inch mac man

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Good to here that you are injoying the baby! It should be easy to remove the limiters on the hi/lo jets. If you want to do any mods to the saw you would need to be able to tune the saw properly. Or change the carb out! A older carb should go rate on there. If you want to get any hours out of the saw, you can't run 50/1 fuel in it. 32/1 will give the best longevity. If you must 40/1 is the LEANEST fuel I would run through a saw. Something to be aware of when tuning a saw is to not hold the saw at full squirt for to long. A few seconds is max you want to run a saw at full throttle out of wood.
 

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Good to here that you are injoying the baby! It should be easy to remove the limiters on the hi/lo jets. If you want to do any mods to the saw you would need to be able to tune the saw properly. Or change the carb out! A older carb should go rate on there. If you want to get any hours out of the saw, you can't run 50/1 fuel in it. 32/1 will give the best longevity. If you must 40/1 is the LEANEST fuel I would run through a saw. Something to be aware of when tuning a saw is to not hold the saw at full squirt for to long. A few seconds is max you want to run a saw at full throttle out of wood.

I think there is probably a very fine line. We can run more oil and less gas and we get carbon build up. Or we run less oil more gas and get scratches on our piston lol. But isn’t 32:1 more lean than 50:1 since it is less fuel.

I am tempted to just run 50:1 with Honda HP2 dirt bike oil, I bought some just for this. I thought about mixing more oil, but I think HP2 is good enough to work well at 50:1. I’d like to avoid a whole bunch of carbon if possible. I’m spoiled on this odorless Motomix stuff though. I don’t understand why regular gas smells so terrible. 🤷‍♂️ I wish there was a way to buy the fuel that’s in motomix and mix our own. I have other 2 stroke machines (Cheap machines). Weedeaters, blowers, etc. and I’d run that in all of them just to avoid smelling like gas.
 

the 28inch mac man

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I think there is probably a very fine line. We can run more oil and less gas and we get carbon build up. Or we run less oil more gas and get scratches on our piston lol. But isn’t 32:1 more lean than 50:1 since it is less fuel.

I am tempted to just run 50:1 with Honda HP2 dirt bike oil, I bought some just for this. I thought about mixing more oil, but I think HP2 is good enough to work well at 50:1. I’d like to avoid a whole bunch of carbon if possible. I’m spoiled on this odorless Motomix stuff though. I don’t understand why regular gas smells so terrible. 🤷‍♂️ I wish there was a way to buy the fuel that’s in motomix and mix our own. I have other 2 stroke machines (Cheap machines). Weedeaters, blowers, etc. and I’d run that in all of them just to avoid smelling like gas.
You wont get carbon if you run even 32/1. I run 20/1 even in my newer saws and I never foul spark plugs. 50/1 has less oil than mixes with lower numbers.50/1 has 50 parts gas to 1 part oil. 40/1 has 40 parts gas to one part oil and so on .
 

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Welcome. You mentioned that you’re new to chainsaws. Be careful - always know where the tip of the bar is, even when you can’t see it. Know and understand kickback, and how to avoid it.

Also, if you have to apply any down pressure to cut, the chain is dull, stop forcing it and sharpen. This is where most newbs mess up - they continue to force cuts and over heat chains, bars, and the saw itself, creating a host of problems and significantly reducing the life of components and the saw itself.

As you know, this place is a wealth of knowledge. Ask if you’re not sure about something. Be safe, and have fun!
Great advice.
Next things to do are:

(1) Base gasket delete for higher compression.
(2) Egan UniFilter kit for 261.
(3) Maybe a custom muffler.

Seems like all this would really open the saw up.
Base gasket delete on the 261 is not something I'd recommend. It has about. 035" clearance with a base gasket. The gasket is .018. The extra compression isn't that important.
I spent a good 25 minutes on tuning the saw today for the first time. My high speed is 100% all the way open, I cannot richen it up anymore (Factory Limiters in place on the carb) (If I install a filter or exhaust, it’s just gonna want more fuel, which I can’t give it) I saw max RPM of 13,860 most of the time with the High speed jet all the way out. I felt a moment where the saw actually started to open up and come to life revving higher and higher easier and easier! It was hitting 13.8K-13.9K and 4 stroking an easier and easier which more or less came out of no where! It was lovely, it seemed harder to rev before and didn’t 4 stroke all that much if at all. My low speed was too rich, and was causing some stalling every 3 out of 10 quick jab and release throttle presses. I leaned the low speed just a tap, and this fixed it. I can see just a little tiny bit of smoke when gassing slightly off idle, and it quickly returns back to idle and no stalling anymore.

I wish I could richer the high speed up just a little more honestly. It’s 4 stroking nicely, and reaches its limit of 13,860 rpm maybe 13,900 at times. But I think 13,500-13,700 would be more realistic for long term usage.

Anyways, what a nice saw! Went through almost a whole tank just idling, and mild revving with a few high RPM hits to check if it was too lean or not, my neighbors probably thought I was insane. Great running saw though! I have to give props to the Motomix fuel as well, that stuff has no smell/odor, doesn’t make your clothes stink at all, the exhaust fumes smell just like a candle burning. You could spill it on your hand and it’s almost nothing there, smells like alcohol or something 😂 amazing fuel. I can walk in from some lite sawing and have a seat in my chair, and my wife doesn’t even notice 🤯. My wife has a blood hound of a nose on her just sayn! 😆
That rpm is perfect.
 

tps3443

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You wont get carbon if you run even 32/1. I run 20/1 even in my newer saws and I never foul spark plugs. 50/1 has less oil than mixes with lower numbers.50/1 has 50 parts gas to 1 part oil. 40/1 has 40 parts gas to one part oil and so on .

Let me ask you this, if I added additional oil to the Motomix wouldn’t that work too? That stuff is awesome, and I have a dealer near me that’s not asking too crazy of prices. Motomix is already 50:1 so I could add a little Honda HP2 to the 1 gallon of and mix it down to 40:1 or 32:1. So I can just add 1.4 ounces of oil to each 1 gallon of Motomix 😃 and then have 32:1.

I am gonna try to find some fuel that doesn’t smell like gas. I know this seems silly, but after running Motomix in all my 2 cycle equipment I am spoiled on the fact that it doesn’t leave an odor when burning.
 
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