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Echo 2511t.. Thoughts?

Sierra_rider

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Nice man! Thread the needle 👍. I'm not that confident. I'd have pulled that one.

Thanks, I was more worried about a bad bounce than actually getting it to go where I want. If that tree had a pistol butt or some sort of crook/bend in it, I likely would've climbed it. However, it was almost perfectly straight, so just getting it to land softly was good enough.
 

HumBurner

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I generally avoid climbing if I can, but I'll resort to it if I'm unsure about fitting a tree into a certain spot. I'll fall some trees that a lot of guys think are too risky to not climb...I'm a faller first IMO. My weak link is probably the broad trees, I'm not as good at reading lean, weight, etc with them and it's just the safer option to climb/piece them out. Get me some in some of our conifers and my confidence level goes way up. I'm pretty comfortable with how much of a back lean that I can wedge, jack, or pull. Side leans, no big deal. It's just those trees are 99% of my experience. If I can't fit one in a hole, I do enjoy climbing them...nothing quite like blowing the top out at 100'+ up in a big pine or redwood.

Here's a fall that a couple people thought I was a little crazy for, it seemed pretty straightforward to me. The buildings are still there lol.


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Without seeing the limbs or lean, I'd agree with you. Seems like you'd have to have tried to hit the buildings.

But, to someone who doesn't fall much, I could see where it would be intimidating.
 

NateSaw

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Without seeing the limbs or lean, I'd agree with you. Seems like you'd have to have tried to hit the buildings.

But, to someone who doesn't fall much, I could see where it would be intimidating.
I'm still very green... I'm trying to build experience in wide open fields lol.
 

HumBurner

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I'm still very green... I'm trying to build experience in wide open fields lol.
We all start somewhere.


I started as a swamper steering clear of power-saws. What I can do with loppers and gloved-hands has astounded many.

I've been running saw for only going on nine years now. Still things I won't touch that others wouldn't bat an eyelash over. Then again, we work in the woods, 90% of the time, slashing trees out of the canopy others wouldn't dare.

It's all about the skillset(s) you develop and what you grow to be comfortable with.


I've done groundie work for climbers in residential settings, and sometimes we do jobs "sort-of" similar, but working in the woods, and under production levels, is night and day from most climbing work/residential work, and is still vastly different than logging for board feet lumber production with deadlines and *a-holes on your case. There's fifty different ways to approach a tree, and fifty more when you really think on it. There's also a hundred different ways to approach forest/land management (timber, health/rehab, fuel load, one owners' specific desires compared to the next, and on and on.)

Lots of jobs remind me of other jobs, but in thirteen years of tree work, no two jobs have ever been the same.


Stay safe and keep an open, but wary mind.
 

Sierra_rider

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Without seeing the limbs or lean, I'd agree with you. Seems like you'd have to have tried to hit the buildings.

But, to someone who doesn't fall much, I could see where it would be intimidating.

IMO, a tree balanced tree of that size is about as straightforward as is gets. Not so big that you're having to cut around from the offside or dealing with big weight, yet big enough to have room for driving wedges if need be. IIRC, I actually did wedge that tree a bit, but it fell out before it got in camera shot.

I'm still very green... I'm trying to build experience in wide open fields lol.

That's the best place to learn lol. I made my share of mistakes when I was starting out...I still make small mistakes here and there, but nothing too egregious anymore. I'll never stop learning, there is so much to it...learning different species of trees, variations of the hinge and face, etc.
 

NateSaw

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We all start somewhere.


I started as a swamper steering clear of power-saws. What I can do with loppers and gloved-hands has astounded many.

I've been running saw for only going on nine years now. Still things I won't touch that others wouldn't bat an eyelash over. Then again, we work in the woods, 90% of the time, slashing trees out of the canopy others wouldn't dare.

It's all about the skillset(s) you develop and what you grow to be comfortable with.


I've done groundie work for climbers in residential settings, and sometimes we do jobs "sort-of" similar, but working in the woods, and under production levels, is night and day from most climbing work/residential work, and is still vastly different than logging for board feet lumber production with deadlines and *a-holes on your case. There's fifty different ways to approach a tree, and fifty more when you really think on it. There's also a hundred different ways to approach forest/land management (timber, health/rehab, fuel load, one owners' specific desires compared to the next, and on and on.)

Lots of jobs remind me of other jobs, but in thirteen years of tree work, no two jobs have ever been the same.


Stay safe and keep an open, but wary mind.
Very wary. But I try to maintain enough courage to commit to the cut. I backed away from a tree that made a popping sound as soon as I started my back cut. It needed more. Walnut. Was split inside and we couldn't see that. Went back for more. Got the saw and my ass out of dodge just in time... It almost barber chaired. Thanks for your words of encouragement man.
 

NateSaw

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Anyone have luck dying plastics, say from red to green? 😈😈😈
 

davidwyby

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2511: I’ve had one a while but not used it a lot. Couple days ago I removed a mesquite which is tough and fibrous. Chain kept sticking…need to do the 1/4”, maybe get it ported. Depends on if I can get my 2139 straight.

The 4 stroke was also hard to pin down. One piss rev it might stroke hard and the next not. I finally just went with what it did in the wood (leaned until no stroke cutting)

Dropping vs. piecing down…I prefer to drop but I’ve also had trees that were a tangled mess of bar pinching once down and would have been easier to bomb from the bucket…lot faster if you have a ground crew.
 

NateSaw

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You can dye them any color you want, as long as it’s black. You’ll have to play the paint game for bright colors.

Also, green chainsaws are camouflage and easy to smash.
You set me straight brother 💪
 

Ketchup

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You set me straight brother 💪
Haha, sorry. Not trying to be snarky, I just haven’t found a dye that can overpower the original and make a new color. Maybe there’s something that could be baked in with heat.
I’ve been thinking about using some striped reflective paint. Different than orange or pink but still high-viz.
 

NateSaw

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Haha, sorry. Not trying to be snarky, I just haven’t found a dye that can overpower the original and make a new color. Maybe there’s something that could be baked in with heat.
I’ve been thinking about using some striped reflective paint. Different than orange or pink but still high-viz.
I didn't take you that way! Genuinely, thank you for setting me straight before I lose many hours for nothing! You saw how the green paint worked out on my 026... Yuck.
 

NateSaw

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Well fellers, I'm at a loss. Is there a bar and chain in 1/4 14 that works out of the box? Other than panther. Bar mods I can handle. But adding/subtraction of links I don't have tools for... I'm the proud owner of a MMWS cs-2511t, and it came with the 1/4 sprocket. Apparently my weekly visits to what I thought was my stihl dealer, and the thousands I've spent here, don't grant me a little creativity on their part. I was blown out the door...
 

Ketchup

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Just get a stihl one and drill new tensioner holes. Just trace the echo bar onto the stihl one. A 1/4” tile bit and slow speed drill press will get it done.

Edit: Or there’s a cheapo option.
 

NateSaw

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Just get a stihl one and drill new tensioner holes. Just trace the echo bar onto the stihl one. A 1/4” tile bit and slow speed drill press will get it done.
I was at the dealer trying to figure that out... There are 050, and 043 GA bars. The guy wouldn't let me figure out which setup would work with an off the shelf chain. That's strike three with them. Not my dealer anymore. Anyway, the 043 gauge would be a precision cut for pruning. Narrow curf.
 

Ketchup

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Get the .043 1/4” semi. Bar should be around $40, chain another $30. The bar and chain are the only thing the 151t has on a stock 2511t.
 

NateSaw

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Well F🤬CK! That didn't last long. 20230516_075640.jpg
I should've seen that one. Little saw ripped. Chains toast.
 

Nutball

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Just get a stihl one and drill new tensioner holes. Just trace the echo bar onto the stihl one. A 1/4” tile bit and slow speed drill press will get it done.

Edit: Or there’s a cheapo option.
Chances are that cheapo option won't last any worthwhile amount of time. Chinese laminated bars have a very loose gauge tolerance. The Archer chain has no safety bumper links, but their laminated bars are junk.
 
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