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- Mar 13, 2023
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- Location
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I'm in north Baltimore County. 83 corridor.
Yeah the stock bar with the 3/8 lp vibrates pretty bad. The saw doesn’t come that way in Europe. No idea why echo USA felt it necessary to outfit them that way here.
.325 Nano is sweet but there’s no sprocket option in .325 for 2511t.Have you considered the Oregon speedcut nano kit (bar, chain & sprocket in .325 / .043)? I haven't used it but I've heard some good things about its narrow kerf performance on small saws.
@Philbert seemed to like it in his review. https://opeforum.com/threads/nano.14433/post-1098636
Thanks for confirming man. I thought it did but wasn’t sure.@Woodpecker yes the bar is direct fit. You would have to add a drive link to the chain though.
Here is the part number for the bar 3005 000 3205. It is 1/4" pitch .050 gauge 12". Dime tip hard nose.
The chain would be 13rm 65DL
1/4" sprocket is echo number A556-001710
Have you considered the Oregon speedcut nano kit (bar, chain & sprocket in .325 / .043)? I haven't used it but I've heard some good things about its narrow kerf performance on small saws.
@Philbert seemed to like it in his review. https://opeforum.com/threads/nano.14433/post-1098636
X2.325 Nano is sweet but there’s no sprocket option in .325 for 2511t.
I feel like I'm becoming part of the familyYou will be a happy customer.
While waiting, see what August Hunicke does with these saws on youtube.
When properly ported, simply amazing!
With spikes a lot of the fit is related to the arch and heel of your boot. A more pronounced heel will keep them in place better. I have always hade to really crank down the boot straps to keep mine from wandering. You can run the strap under the spike before buckling for extra stability, but it wrecks the straps pretty quickly. Make sure the shin pads are the right height as well. Too high or too low and they push the bottom of the frame out of position on your arch.Since this thread was answered by some climbers...
I finally went up a tree yesterday. I'm happy with all my gear, but the notch gecko steel climbers... I have questions lol. The shin pads are alright... But like all things are for me, overall the climbers are too big. The supports are too wide for my lil size 8's. And the foot strap doesn't seem to do much even when cranked down (which I know will wear them out fast). My boots started to float around in the frames. I was left feeling less than secure in them. The gaffs are badass. Very little was needed to set them. I did gaff out once, but the bark on this tree was loose (which also made flipping the lanyard difficult). I have the urge to modify the frames/straps to fit my feet better. Also, what the hell are the extra holes near the strap? View attachment 371985View attachment 371986
Finally, as this seems a topic of much debate, how do you guys like to coil/wind your climbing rope?
Get a rope bag/bucket. Coiling is a waste of time for daily use. If you’re storing the rope, butterfly coil is the way.
I always say, "what works for one, doesn't work for everyone".I liked my Stein X2’s for removals. But the more guys I have talked to, the more seemed not to like them as much as I did..
I use a plastic kite reel for throw line, it's not as compact, but it fits in my 5/8 bull rope bag or it's easily carried if I'm using 1/2 that I daisy chain.And it works for smaller rope too. I use a butterfly coil across my hand using my thumb and pinky finger for my dynaglide throw rope. It works flawlessly. I can't imagine anything working better.
I have a bag for my climb lines and my 5/8 bull rope.Get a rope bag/bucket. Coiling is a waste of time for daily use. If you’re storing the rope, butterfly coil is the way.
I always say, "what works for one, doesn't work for everyone".
Thanks ketchup! I saw a buddy last night he said butterfly too. These are my boots... They're the best I've ever owned, that's why I ran out to get another pair. My oldies survived 3 years of brutality. 3 Fn years!With spikes a lot of the fit is related to the arch and heel of your boot. A more pronounced heel will keep them in place better. I have always hade to really crank down the boot straps to keep mine from wandering. You can run the strap under the spike before buckling for extra stability, but it wrecks the straps pretty quickly. Make sure the shin pads are the right height as well. Too high or too low and they push the bottom of the frame out of position on your arch.
Get a rope bag/bucket. Coiling is a waste of time for daily use. If you’re storing the rope, butterfly coil is the way.
You have to be right. After loading that rope up with weight it got quite a boner. It was all "Chinese finger tricked" tight and wouldn't coil.Everyone's needs and styles are different. I'm sure there's plenty of good ways to do it. For my needs, I can't imagine anything working better than a butterfly coil.
I'm definitely not opposed to bags, if their good and stay open while flaking into them. However, the good ones cost and right now I'm tapped. I love that daisy chain method for extension cords too. But I can never remember how.... The climber my boss uses, (freaking badass old skool climber) uses a broom handle like you do the kite reel. Seems good for him. He wraps it so there's a bite he can biner it to his harness with. Takes it up with him for resets.I always say, "what works for one, doesn't work for everyone".
Case in point below.
I use a plastic kite reel for throw line, it's not as compact, but it fits in my 5/8 bull rope bag or it's easily carried if I'm using 1/2 that I daisy chain.
I have a bag for my climb lines and my 5/8 bull rope.
I like daisy chaining my 1/2 pull/rigging lines as I can just toss them in the back seat or floor of my excursion.
The bags are so attractive to me. Seems faster, and less likely to get the rope twisted. For now, I'm digging the butterfly. It's faster than coiling, and seems to relax the rope some. That looks like a good, simple, strong bag. They stay open for you when you flake in?I use to coil ropes and did so for most of my tree career. Now I use these bags from gap arborist https://www.gaparboristsupply.com/Gap-Arborist-Supply-Heavy-Duty-Rope-Bag/item/90-50-0147-RD.
They hold well durability wise and stand up well to feed your rope in.
I wrap my lower strap above the spur on the shank. Keeps them from shifting around so much.
The bags are the way to go. Even the cheap ones work well and stay open alright. I have lots including the teufelberger/New England ropes bag which I really like. The collapsing weaver bag is a good cheap place to start:The bags are so attractive to me. Seems faster, and less likely to get the rope twisted. For now, I'm digging the butterfly. It's faster than coiling, and seems to relax the rope some. That looks like a good, simple, strong bag. They stay open for you when you flake in?