Echo 2511t.. Thoughts?

[Piston Skirt]

I have now tested both. Doing that like the TI says. And normal, let it run to get operating Temperatur. Both works to set the carb.

Maybe its a incorrect translation to German? It says also if the high idle is not in the 6000 to 10000 RPM range, set it with the H needle. You cant set high idle or normal idle with H. You can only change idle with the L jet.

so is a bit weired...

Adjustment of _HIGH_ idle speeds (6K-10K) is already in the effective range of the H jet, there is no mistake.
It is not only to get to the temperature but also to bypass (turn off) active idle mode.
Otherwise during adjustment process the engine will not react to L changes until the setting is extremely off.

 

[Woodwater]

Adjustment of _HIGH_ idle speeds (6K-10K) is already in the effective range of the H jet, there is no mistake.
It is not only to get to the temperature but also to bypass (turn off) active idle mode.
Otherwise during adjustment process the engine will not react to L changes until the setting is extremely off.

Please demonstrate that you can adjust the Idle (high idle) with the H jet. The Engine also react's to L changes without that whole process.

 

[Ketchup]

The only “High idle” I have ever experienced on a 2511 is the mechanical position of the throttle after engaging and then disengaging the choke. Is that what you mean? It doesn’t seem very important as long as it gets the saw running.

I have found that the H setting can affect the return to idle when you release the throttle. Especially on a ported saw.

 

[Woodwater]

Yes, this "High Idle" is in the Talk.

 

[Woodwater]

i also think, that's not important.

 

[ZERO]

1st time that I am seeing a 2511 with a 20" bar.
Our good friends at C&S Custom Saws, @Crocky28

 

[Ketchup]

@Nutball did it several years ago. I think he was running 3/8lp. It’s a great indicator of these saw’s capabilities. My experience is that bar lengths like that are not practical for a top handle saw. A rear handle version could be pretty cool. It’s still a lot to ask from a 5lb bundle of plastic. It’s really cutting nice!

 

[Crocky28]

@Nutball did it several years ago. I think he was running 3/8lp. It’s a great indicator of these saw’s capabilities. My experience is that bar lengths like that are not practical for a top handle saw. A rear handle version could be pretty cool. It’s still a lot to ask from a 5lb bundle of plastic. It’s really cutting nice!

Yeah I agree. It’s completely impractical. I just did it to show the capabilities. You couldn’t go climbing with that thing. You’d cut a body part off

 

[ZERO]

I have seen a few ported 2511s chocking with a 16" bar.
Not all builds and builders are the same.
Mark shows great mastery on these engines/saws.
Just imagine what one of his saws can do with a 10"-12" bar.

 

[Woodwater]

I have one from Mark with a 10" bar. 1/4 pitch. i have on one chain complete deleted the Rakers and the Saw cuts fast with it.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Is that carving bar a direct fit? I just wore out a panther bar and I’m looking for something else.

If you have 1/4 pitch sproket just get a stihl 14" small nose bar and chain for their electric saw. You need to drill another tensioner hole about a .4" down the bar and i like to drill in between the rails with a little bit from the top down for oil flow. you can shove a screw driver in there to spread the rails if its too tight. Then you can just get a new standard length chain any time you need it. Ill give you the exact measurements and a pic later.

 

[Crocky28]

I’ve just ordered some 12” echo bars. Look like they’ll be decent.

 

[Crocky28]

 

[Crocky28]

Ordered stihl 1/4 chains for them.

 

[Nutball]

@Nutball did it several years ago. I think he was running 3/8lp. It’s a great indicator of these saw’s capabilities. My experience is that bar lengths like that are not practical for a top handle saw. A rear handle version could be pretty cool. It’s still a lot to ask from a 5lb bundle of plastic. It’s really cutting nice!

I hear you can charge $1200 on eBay with a 20" cannon bar if you leave it stock and call it a Piltz Hot Saw.

I mounted the 42" on it once, but never tried running it. 1DL too long of chain.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Ported 2511t is the gold standard climbing saw now. I prune and remove with mine 4 days a week. 201t feels like a cinderblock with a handle after using a 2511t.

But it’s not a ground saw. Neither is 201t. Get yourself a rear handle if you’re grounding.

hybrid 45 on crack is a way more funner groundsaw!

 

[vrex]

The only “High idle” I have ever experienced on a 2511 is the mechanical position of the throttle after engaging and then disengaging the choke. Is that what you mean? It doesn’t seem very important as long as it gets the saw running.

I have found that the H setting can affect the return to idle when you release the throttle. Especially on a ported saw.

I’m having the return to idle issue, tinkered on my own before looking for answers (who needs experienced technical help, I’ve got my own screw drivers) I added fuel on the low end and increased idle speed but the saw still dies coming off WOT when I let off the trigger fast. If I decrease slow, it seems to slow down to idle and hold. It’ll also die hanging on my saddle. For my edumification and future record, the return to idle problem is resolved by leaning or richening the H jet? The dying at idle when hanging issue is resolved by leaning or richening the L jet? Or just increase idle speed?

 

[Ketchup]

Low jet is rich. Opening the Throttle may help, but if it’s too much it makes the rest of the tune difficult. I have re-tuned many 2511 where the operator just kept cranking in the T. L and H wind up way off.

Also, make sure your air filter is clean. Yours is heavily modified so I don’t recommend replacing it. A good soak in gas may help of it’s really dirty.

 

[vrex]

Low jet is rich. Opening the Throttle may help, but if it’s too much it makes the rest of the tune difficult. I have re-tuned many 2511 where the operator just kept cranking in the T. L and H wind up way off.

Also, make sure your air filter is clean. Yours is heavily modified so I don’t recommend replacing it. A good soak in gas may help of it’s really dirty.

Low dig on the dirty air filter bro, what kinda heathen do you think I am I’ll soak that filter now, and lean up that L. I noticed she was still four stroking at WOT, had a pretty good temp swing up here. The other side of that is the challenge of finding that sweet spot when the saw goes cold for 10 mins climbing around and resetting, then a flurry of cuts for a minute then cold again.

But man oh man, what an absolute peach of a climb saw. I’m seeing converts left and right

Thank you Ketchup!

 

[Ketchup]

No judgement. My climbing saw will die off throttle if I don’t keep the air filter clear…which happens most weeks.

I’m ripping the battery saws more and more though. A lazy arborist’s best friend?