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Echo 2511t.. Thoughts?

vrex

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No judgement. My climbing saw will die off throttle if I don’t keep the air filter clear…which happens most weeks.

I’m ripping the battery saws more and more though. A lazy arborist’s best friend?
Think the .325 Speedcut nano set up would be worth anything over the 1/4p on the 2500t?

I really do love not pulling a recoil. Dunno if the new t542ixp does much better than the t540i, the stihl is expensive and had too many safeties. If im gonna cut myself it’s gonna happen regardless of switchology. Milwaukee seems to heavy, on paper, haven’t handled one.
 

Ketchup

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The nano is a lot easier to sharpen and binds less in the cut. The cuts are notably less refined.

The 540i is great for climbing removals, but it burns batteries.

The battery stuff doesn’t really replace any saws for me. It just adds more tool options. I do use them though. Quite a lot.
 

Crocky28

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ZERO

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1st cut with a bone stock chain is as exciting as watching grass grow.
But we are in the break in phase, so I will not put any extra load on the engine in the beginning.

The saw does what any good saw should do:
1. Pop on the 1st or 2nd pull stone cold chocked.
2. Restarts on the 1st pull, warmed up.
3. Has a smooth idle stone cold and fully warmed up.

Now we have to watch out for a few conditions:
1. WHERE was the saw ported
2. WHEN was the saw ported

3. WHERE was the saw sent to
4. WHEN was the saw sent to

5. WHAT is the state of the engine break in
6. WHAT is the skill level of the operator

All these small variables will dictate where we end up parking the the high jet setting.
Not to say that Mark @Crocky28 would not have it tuned perfectly for his climatic conditions.

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In my experience, breaking in the 2511 is best before porting. 10-12 tanks at a minimum. Once that is done a complete teardown and cleaning, then start your port work. I did a bunch of them and had outstanding results, took a little bit to refine the recipe, but its been solidified and just plain works.
 

drf256

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In my experience, breaking in the 2511 is best before porting. 10-12 tanks at a minimum. Once that is done a complete teardown and cleaning, then start your port work. I did a bunch of them and had outstanding results, took a little bit to refine the recipe, but its been solidified and just plain works.
Buck!
 

ZERO

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Mark @Crocky28 nice exhaust design! Very detailed, I did not have a chance to look at it in detail till now.
As loud as they get, something I totally looooove!

The saw is behaving very nicely, getting into some harder and bigger wood.
Compression is picking up, more load is required to take away the four stroking.
May be time to restrict the high idle jet, but I will give her a few more tanks, we are six in as of now.

Stone cold starts, two pulls max, restarts one pull each time.
So far very happy cutting experience.

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ZERO

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Saw is behaving very nicely. Thus far no complaints at all.
Engine is seating in more, feeling the extra kick back during slow pulls.
Mark @Crocky28 has a solid formula, this saw does not have the quarter idle bump when leaned to its side.

Time for larger harder species, some goodies have arrived.
I know what you guys will say, you (me) are one drive link too short.
Time for some amateur Richard Flag style conversion.
Guilty, watching too many Tim (cotontop3) 2511T videos.

This will be lots of fun, I have never drilled a bar before.
No lathe, no bench drill, just some hardened 118 bits and some old cutting machinist fluid.
How bad can it get?
How easy can I ruin a brand new bar?
We we shall see...

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Nutball

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I have had problems with burrs getting pushed between the layers of the bar causing a bulge around the holes. I had to take a small burr to grind the middle layer out in the holes to get the burrs out.
 
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