Anyone else break there saws in with a rich oil mix

[Simondo]

Lots of wives tales and theories surrounding break in, its really simple when you understand what is required to do the job properly. Most don't......ever run a saw of the same model thats stock and wondered why it runs better.

What are you saying is the way to do the break in ?

 

[CR888]

What are you saying is the way to do the break in ?

Well firstly the term break in usually refers to the seating/bedding of piston rings into a new bore. How does this happen? Gas pressure is responsible for this as it forces the rings against the cylinder wall. How do we get lots of gas pressure? We put the saw into running conditions that promote this....load and throttle is what is required to create the most pressure. You only get a small window of opportunity to get a good break in, all saw will break in no matter what you do but to achieve a good ring seal that resists blow by is what we want to make power. As far as oil mix ratio's are concerned mineral oil will do a better job than synthetics and more oil will help. Heat cycles are a thing of the past, machine tolerances are much better today than years past so the idea of 'going easy' is not good practice. As justsaws mentioned if a component is going to fail, it will do so whether you go easy or hard, its just a matter of time/conditions. Running a saw out of wood WOT is not creating the conditions required for good break in,idling the saw for the first tank is about the worst thing one can do. I won't even start a new two stroke until I am ready to break it in properly. Get it right and you will have a saw that makes more power than one that has been poorly done, you will also avoid contamination from blow by which we don't want. If you insist on running full synthetic oil do so after break in is done. Hope this helps.

 

[Redfin]

First fire, idle and listen for any odd noises. Tune it a tad fat and run it.

 

[mdavlee]

Well firstly the term break in usually refers to the seating/bedding of piston rings into a new bore. How does this happen? Gas pressure is responsible for this as it forces the rings against the cylinder wall. How do we get lots of gas pressure? We put the saw into running conditions that promote this....load and throttle is what is required to create the most pressure. You only get a small window of opportunity to get a good break in, all saw will break in no matter what you do but to achieve a good ring seal that resists blow by is what we want to make power. As far as oil mix ratio's are concerned mineral oil will do a better job than synthetics and more oil will help. Heat cycles are a thing of the past, machine tolerances are much better today than years past so the idea of 'going easy' is not good practice. As justsaws mentioned if a component is going to fail, it will do so whether you go easy or hard, its just a matter of time/conditions. Running a saw out of wood WOT is not creating the conditions required for good break in,idling the saw for the first tank is about the worst thing one can do. I won't even start a new two stroke until I am ready to break it in properly. Get it right and you will have a saw that makes more power than one that has been poorly done, you will also avoid contamination from blow by which we don't want. If you insist on running full synthetic oil do so after break in is done. Hope this helps.

A lot closer to what I do. We ran the new 562 the other day after it was ported before it's first start. Started it up and put it into wood in about 30 seconds. Made 6 noodling cuts with the bar buried and then handed it to Awol and he did about the same. I hope to be able to get a good load on it in the next few days. Might free hand a cant with it just for the load on it.

 

[Keith Gandy]

http://husqvarna.custhelp.com/app/a...h---does-my-chain-saw-have-a-break-in-period?

 

[Keith Gandy]

Here is an old guide to breakin in 2t dirtbikes . I know saws arent the same but its interesting to see the difference in bike and saw break in. When I raced boats the guy I built motors with and another fellow that raced in the NHRA recommend this procedure too

 

[mdavlee]

The saws I ran hard the first tank seemed to break in a lot quicker than the ones that were ran easy. Any more I'll start one and get it tuned rich and make 5-10 cuts after maybe a minute of warm up. Let it idle for a minute or 2 and repeat.

 

[junkman]

Saws do not need the rings broke in like a bike or car engine do with heat cycles ,most of the break in time is getting the bearings loosened up so they rev better ,start it up and run it like you stole it.

 

[Keith Gandy]

Saws do not need the rings broke in like a bike or car engine do with heat cycles ,most of the break in time is getting the bearings loosened up so they rev better ,start it up and run it like you stole it.

I would think its the seals and not the bearings Brian? My way of thinkin here is install new bearings and spin the crank and its superfree it the axis is centered. Install the seals and it tightens up

 

[PissRev]

Husky trimmer carbs come set from the factory rich. They say after 8-10 tanks of gas the engine is run in and the carb needs to be adjusted.

 

[Stihl working Hard]

My 40:1 mix of AMSOIL Saber seems to leave plenty of oil on the piston. I try not to let my saws idle much except a short bit to initially warm up, and I try not to piss rev a saw, broken in or not. When I pull that trigger, I put it in some wood.

I may tune a tad rich, both for break in, and to keep me out of trouble with temp & elevation changes. It's cheap insurance.

After all it's only oil your burning not a piston

 

[Stihl working Hard]

Saws do not need the rings broke in like a bike or car engine do with heat cycles ,most of the break in time is getting the bearings loosened up so they rev better ,start it up and run it like you stole it.

A man after my heart that'd exactly how I run my saws during break in @ 40:1

 

[wildroamer]

The guy at Solo USA recommended a couple heat cycles after the top end swap, idle for couple minutes, cool down, repeat. No good?

 

[Keith Gandy]

The guy at Solo USA recommended a couple heat cycles after the top end swap, idle for couple minutes, cool down, repeat. No good?

Thats a dirtbike break in but not what everyone here recommends

 

[wildroamer]

OK. Thanks, Keith. I'll warm it up a bit, than bury it.

 

[Keith Gandy]

OK. Thanks, Keith. I'll warm it up a bit, than bury it.

My 550 had a ring sealing issue so I took it down and honed, cleaned , and put a new caber ring in. Im gonna run regular dino oil @ 40to1 and crank it and hammer the heck out of it for break in and see how it goes

 

[junkman]

I would think its the seals and not the bearings Brian? My way of thinkin here is install new bearings and spin the crank and its superfree it the axis is centered. Install the seals and it tightens up

i believe it is both ,seems like a new saw starts running better at 15-20 tanks after things loosen up

 

[Keith Gandy]

It works in a 2t bike. Way we always broke them in and no issues. Not sure about these saws or the difference it makes with a bike or saw. Im gonna run it wot on saws from the start from now on

 

[wildroamer]

I've never done the heat cycle deal either. That's just what the Solo rep told me.

 

[mdavlee]

The bearings do loosen up some along with the seals. I would like to try a set of the ceramic bearings in a 365/372.