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Anyone else break there saws in with a rich oil mix

Jimmy in NC

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Food for thought...more oil is actually less fuel, or less combustible material. Yes you can open the jets, but then you are just dumping fuel and oil through there.

I also see no reason for more oil, the rings need to wear. Anyone who doesn't believe this, I have an M274A1 that we went through the transmission on. Dad ran Spirax in it...20 years later the shift shafts still haven't deburred on the interlocks. Things can be too slippery.
 

Duane(Pa)

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How long does a saw have to run to use a tank of gas at idle? 3-4 Hrs.? That just seems bizarre to me.

I have run everything I have ever owned on the same mix: 32:1 Golden Spectro tuned normally. After a while they break-in......It takes a while, but it happens. I feel like the longer it takes, the better the quality of metal I spent my money on.....

I have seen some piss poor technique in quite a few vids that get posted on these sites. Nothing can be done to save a saw from some of the abuse I have seen....
 
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Jimmy in NC

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How long does a saw have to run to use a tank of gas at idle? 3-4 Hrs.? That just seems bizarre to me.

I have run everything I have ever owned on the same mix: 32:1 Golden Spectro tuned normally. After a while they break-in......It takes a while, but it happens. I feel like the longer it takes, the better the quality of metal I spent my money on.....

I have seen some piss poor technique in quite a few vids that get posted on these sites. Nothing can be done to save a saw from some of the abuse I have seen....
I ran 32:1 for a long time. I noticed some newer small equipment had issues with idle moving. Dropping from 32:1 - 40:1 problems stopped. Didn't believe it was ratio so I went back just to see....sure enough problem was back.

What ever people do....they just need to be consistent. Thats the biggest thing I think.
 

jmssaws

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The super oil will slow break in.
Start it and tune it to what it's supposed to be tuned to and beat the crap out of it.

If it's together properly it will break in quickly. If it's not right a slow easy break in is just prolonging the enevitable
 

lmbrman

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50:1 tuned a little fat when new. Same with ported saws from TM. When I bought my first 550xp, the dealer insisted on breaking it in to tune the carb. WOT out of wood for 3minutes straight, first time started. I braced myself and bought the husky oil to extend the warranty. Saw now has 800 hours on it, best of the 6 AT saws I own.

Not that I recommend that procedure, but it didn't seem to hurt it either.
-dave
 

stihl saws

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I use the same mix I always run. I crank it, let it warm up good while checking the L tune, put it in some wood and adjust the H to suit me. Then run it like you would anything else.
 

MustangMike

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My 40:1 mix of AMSOIL Saber seems to leave plenty of oil on the piston. I try not to let my saws idle much except a short bit to initially warm up, and I try not to piss rev a saw, broken in or not. When I pull that trigger, I put it in some wood.

I may tune a tad rich, both for break in, and to keep me out of trouble with temp & elevation changes. It's cheap insurance.
 

CR888

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Lots of wives tales and theories surrounding break in, its really simple when you understand what is required to do the job properly. Most don't......ever run a saw of the same model thats stock and wondered why it runs better.
 
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