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Another chainsaw dyno...

srcarr52

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I keep going back and fourth... This shaft with the proper bearing fit sure showed the misalignment in the bearing blocks.



I am moving it over about 1". It will start to crowd the tq arm and controls on some of the larger powerheads. For running and starting the saws.

I couldn't believe how much the shaft flexed with some of the stronger saws...

It's not really a vibration I am trying to get rid of. It is excessive runout/wobble at the shaft. That keeps the whipping motion out of the arm. This should be 10x better than before.

It’s about impossible to get three bearings to line up perfectly. I’d move the one pill block towards the chain sprocket and keep the torque arm as close to the other as possible. That brake was designed to be run on a free end of a double simply supported engine anyway. You’re basically recreating that.
 

Red97

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The sprocket being right next to the existing bearing should eliminate the need for a third bearing...

It’s about impossible to get three bearings to line up perfectly. I’d move the one pill block towards the chain sprocket and keep the torque arm as close to the other as possible. That brake was designed to be run on a free end of a double simply supported engine anyway. You’re basically recreating that.

Sounds like moving the sprocket closer to the bearing is next on the list.

Removing the leverage should do the trick.

Brake side is already as close as possible.
 

Wilhelm

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Grinding noises, bearings are shot! :p

Dyno will be down another month or so, gives Red the opportunity to live out his saw fetishes on Your saws. :rolleyes:
 

Red97

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Red97

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That one doesn't look so hateful, what would you guess it weighs?

12 ish lb

Upside down, behind the back, weak hand is still doable to set the magnet.

Have a smaller hydraulic one, but it takes short tapered drills. Then you have to deal with the pump and lines etc.

Portable is all relative lol
 
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