346 porting (first time)

[paragonbuilder]

Thanks Bill. I've got a 200t and a 201t to check out and make some improvements. Then I can start picking away at my own saws.
I like that wheel. I think I'll print it out and see what I can do.
The RE magnet holds enough not to slip?


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[wcorey]

It can slip if it gets bumped, it's so easy to setup and check that I occasionally just re-check position. Just a quick look at the intake or exhaust opening/closing points and see if the numbers still match, same number for opening and closing, assuming the degree wheel layout is like the one I posted with zero starting on either side of tdc/bdc.
That's also how I zero for tdc...

 

[paragonbuilder]

It can slip if it gets bumped, it's so easy to setup and check that I occasionally just re-check position. Just a quick look at the intake or exhaust opening/closing points and see if the numbers still match, same number for opening and closing, assuming the degree wheel layout is like the one I posted with zero starting on either side of tdc/bdc.
That's also how I zero for tdc...

Hey that's cool! I like that. No need for a piston stop. I think I just might give that a whirl!


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[paragonbuilder]

Oh dear. That's a fair bit of grinding.

Do I taper it as far as I can?
And do I grind the divider down to a sharp edge to help flow as well?


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[paragonbuilder]

Also I was just about to match the heat shield,gasket and muffler and they are bigger then my opening.

Do I open the exhaust port to match. Or if everything else is bigger it's ok?


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[Ironworker]

Oh dear. That's a fair bit of grinding.

Do I taper it as far as I can?
And do I grind the divider down to a sharp edge to help flow as well?


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In my opinion, which is the opinion of an amateur hobbiest is to do the divider to improve flow and get more fuel through the transfers, hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Also I was just about to match the heat shield,gasket and muffler and they are bigger then my opening.

Do I open the exhaust port to match. Or if everything else is bigger it's ok?


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IMO it would likely be fine as is but you've gone this far so if I was you I'd match everything up. Just my$.02

 

[mdavlee]

Smooth the divider but don't go to a knife edge. Roll the piston to BDC and look at where the bottom of it is compared to the opening in the case. That will help you visualize where it's flowing.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Ok here she is.
The lower transfers.

I redid the exhaust to match the heat shield. Is that what I was supposed to blend to in the first place?

And I opened up the exit on the muffler. Boy was that tight. But I can still use the spark arrester.

Am I done now?


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[Ironworker]

Wow, that's nice, looks like those new porting tools worked out well.

 

[mdavlee]

Looks better now. You'll have a good running saw.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Wow, that's nice, looks like those new porting tools worked out well.

Yes! I'm psyched to have them. Trying different bits to see what works for different things. And it's nice to switch hand pieces instead of bits all the time.


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[paragonbuilder]

I need to find bits for the 90 degree hand piece. They are held differently than the straight pieces.


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[paragonbuilder]

It simply won't run common knowledge

It needs finger ports toe ports cut squish band pop up turbo vane crank and at least four holes in the muffler with chrome plated tubing.



Your porting looks nice. Factory is often not that nice. You should be proud of your efforts.

You will soon figure this out. But you can go faster. It will affect longevity and take more effort. You can tune the saw to be faster in big wood or faster in smaller wood. You can make it run well and have good road manners or put it on the ragged edge and may not be quite as nice. Idle or warm start or sustained cutting or how loud it is.

We see people showcase some high effort fast saws. With nice handiwork. That's great. But it doesn't have to be and one size does not fit all.

What is your squish?

From the squish band to the ex port open how far is it?

Same for the transfers

David

David,
I don't have a degree wheel yet. Are you asking me to measure actual distance from squish band to exhaust and transfers?
Squish was .017 with no sealant or gasket.

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[drf256]

Dan,

Your work looks amazing.

I bet she puts a smile on yer face.

 

[ft. churchill]

David,
I don't have a degree wheel yet. Are you asking me to measure actual distance from squish band to exhaust and transfers?
Squish was .017 with no sealant or gasket.

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I think Mr. young was givin' ya a hard time. Like asking what brand of muffler bearings are best sort of thing.

Your grinding looks good, smooth and symeterical. It should run excellent. My first three saws I did without a degree wheel and they all came out good. Just dont go too far , focus on smooth shapes, radiusing sharp edges, making everything aerodynamic. I would leave the upper transfers alone, smooth out any sharp edges at the bottom transfers, remove the base gasket, (check and adjust squish as needed with gaskets) and remove double the amount of the base gasket thickness from the roof of the exhaust port.
What this way of doing it will achieve is slightly more intake, a matching amount of exhaust duration increase, and the blow down will shorten some which will help improve high speed operation.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Dan,

Your work looks amazing.

I bet she puts a smile on yer face.

Thanks Al. That means a lot coming from you. Your work is pristine!


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[paragonbuilder]

I think Mr. young was givin' ya a hard time. Like asking what brand of muffler bearings are best sort of thing.

Your grinding looks good, smooth and symeterical. It should run excellent. My first three saws I did without a degree wheel and they all came out good. Just dont go too far , focus on smooth shapes, radiusing sharp edges, making everything aerodynamic. I would leave the upper transfers alone, smooth out any sharp edges at the bottom transfers, remove the base gasket, (check and adjust squish as needed with gaskets) and remove double the amount of the base gasket thickness from the roof of the exhaust port.
What this way of doing it will achieve is slightly more intake, a matching amount of exhaust duration increase, and the blow down will shorten some which will help improve high speed operation.

How do I check the muffler bearings? Do you think I need new ones? The saw isn't that old. [emoji23]


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[czar800]

How do I check the muffler bearings? Do you think I need new ones? The saw isn't that old. [emoji23]


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The same way you check a spark plug in a cummins..

 

[ft. churchill]

According to what I've seen on E-bay, you just have to have the ceramic bearings.