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Stump Shot

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If the measurements of the ID is the same after reaming them. I'm guessing it would be very close to the same from side to side.
If it was machined the same on each side...

I don't quite understand myself, all I can say is it was from a factory two stroke racing mechanic, that told me. Basically came right out and said my best efforts would not be near close enough for it to not self destruct.
So with that, Maybe twenty bucks is pretty cheap for someone that took the time to set a dedicated machine/s up to make the tapered wrist pins perfectly uniform.
 

Sty57

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I get the whole using / buying the oem tapered one.
But like a lot of guys, there's a bunch of new aftermarket ones just sitting around.
If they could be lighten to match the OEM ones........why not?
 

Mastermind

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I get the whole using / buying the oem tapered one.
But like a lot of guys, there's a bunch of new aftermarket ones just sitting around.
If they could be lighten to match the OEM ones........why not?

Time is money.....
 

Adirondackstihl

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If I drive 6miles and bring a 6pack of beer with me, I can have these (2) Meteor pins tapered identical to the OEM pins for no charge.....by the 2nd best machinist I know.
He’s been turning parts longer than I’ve been sucking air.
 

breese

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While lighter is better for RPM's, everything must be matched..

In the V8 or other 4 stroke's, when building a "Race Motor" and using lighter pistons and or rods, the crank balance needs to be matched.
While a balancer on the end of the crank helps with some vibration, the overall balance between the crank, rods, and pistons all need to be balanced.

Would it not be a good starting point in a saw to weigh a stock rod, piston, and pin, then weight the new lighter ones and remove enough from the crank so as to balance the entire unit?
 

Deets066

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While lighter is better for RPM's, everything must be matched..

In the V8 or other 4 stroke's, when building a "Race Motor" and using lighter pistons and or rods, the crank balance needs to be matched.
While a balancer on the end of the crank helps with some vibration, the overall balance between the crank, rods, and pistons all need to be balanced.

Would it not be a good starting point in a saw to weigh a stock rod, piston, and pin, then weight the new lighter ones and remove enough from the crank so as to balance the entire unit?
In these engines most of the time weight needs to be added to the crank in order to balance. So lightening the little end is better all around IMHO
 

Al Smith

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Would t it just have been easier to buy the right part?



Sorry bud, had to :D
Good point except my Bud could not find either a water pump nor a bearing and seals to fit a Chevy 292 in line 6 for some reason .
I used the bearings and seals from a Ford 2.3 liter Ranger ,factory new BTW .I once used the bearing from an industrial 429 to repair a Cummins diesel in an old road grader .Fact I've got a Ford bearing in a 1950 Ferguson tractor .There's more tricks to old engines than Carters have little pills just hard to remember them all .
 

Al Smith

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Here's what you could do if you had access to a tool room set up .Use an ID jig grinder ..That's an item the average tinkerer and putser would not have including myself .
 

Lightning Performance

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Feeling lots of love right now :loveyou:
Okay. GFY. Felling much better now? :smile:

Talking to a friend that designs pistons every day for Mahle, he told me changing upper RPM limit from 12,500 to 13,000 is amazing the difference on bottom end and such even on a saw sized motor.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
There's a brain to pick.

Ooooo... In HS we could get rid of three or four grams in a few minutes. Easy peasy.
Think I can take 6g of mass off this meteor piston safely?
Forget safe. I took 14 off one. Braaaap brap...
 
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