High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Which Foredom, Square Drive or Key Tip???

Crocky28

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Sounds like I’ll probably have to make an fixture to hold the collet so I can bump it out to 1/8”.
When’s yours due to arrive? It will be good to see what you think of how tight the collet is.
 

srcarr52

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When’s yours due to arrive? It will be good to see what you think of how tight the collet is.

It passed customs but I get no further information than that. It will probably be here this week.
 

srcarr52

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Hey Shaun how much for your setup as well?

I haven't decided yet. I'm testing out some different burrs and my cnc lathe that I used to make these and mod burrs is broken again. So if I can't get the lathe working consistently I don't think I'll be making any more.
 

srcarr52

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When’s yours due to arrive? It will be good to see what you think of how tight the collet is.

I got mine today and gave it the first inspection. The head seems strong and smaller than I expected but the 1/8" advertised collet is 3mm. So I'll have to punch it out 0.2mm somehow to get 1/8" burrs to work that we are all used to using. The collet is threaded to the taper (no flat area to clamp), so I'll have to make an arbor to hold it true in the lathe before sending an end mill through it for the correct size.

It is also a little too tight to fit on a true Foredom sheath. I measured it at 0.397 (10mm) where to fit the Foredom sheath it needs to be 0.404" for a tight fit. So I'll have to take it apart and ream the connection ID. At the same time I'll put an angle grind into the key drive so it seats easier as now it's straight cut so you have to line it up perfectly to get the key to seat.

So it looks like it needs $50 worth of modification to be useful. I also see they raised the price $20 after I bought one.

I'll mod one to work and we'll see how they hold up. If it's decent I'll be happy to mod them for anyone else.
 

wcorey

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I ordered one.

I'll likely leave the 3mm collet as 3mm as I do have a bunch of that size tooling.
Then modify the solid mandrel (that I'd probably never have much use for anyway) by removing the threaded stub, boring/reaming it to .125" and slotting it.
 

Dolkitafreak

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I got mine today and gave it the first inspection. The head seems strong and smaller than I expected but the 1/8" advertised collet is 3mm. So I'll have to punch it out 0.2mm somehow to get 1/8" burrs to work that we are all used to using. The collet is threaded to the taper (no flat area to clamp), so I'll have to make an arbor to hold it true in the lathe before sending an end mill through it for the correct size.

It is also a little too tight to fit on a true Foredom sheath. I measured it at 0.397 (10mm) where to fit the Foredom sheath it needs to be 0.404" for a tight fit. So I'll have to take it apart and ream the connection ID. At the same time I'll put an angle grind into the key drive so it seats easier as now it's straight cut so you have to line it up perfectly to get the key to seat.

So it looks like it needs $50 worth of modification to be useful. I also see they raised the price $20 after I bought one.

I'll mod one to work and we'll see how they hold up. If it's decent I'll be happy to mod them for anyone else.
If you end up modding and selling them I'll take two! Not having to switch would be sweet, I don't use many different burrs and stones in my 90 anyways!
 

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I got mine today and gave it the first inspection. The head seems strong and smaller than I expected but the 1/8" advertised collet is 3mm. So I'll have to punch it out 0.2mm somehow to get 1/8" burrs to work that we are all used to using. The collet is threaded to the taper (no flat area to clamp), so I'll have to make an arbor to hold it true in the lathe before sending an end mill through it for the correct size.

It is also a little too tight to fit on a true Foredom sheath. I measured it at 0.397 (10mm) where to fit the Foredom sheath it needs to be 0.404" for a tight fit. So I'll have to take it apart and ream the connection ID. At the same time I'll put an angle grind into the key drive so it seats easier as now it's straight cut so you have to line it up perfectly to get the key to seat.

So it looks like it needs $50 worth of modification to be useful. I also see they raised the price $20 after I bought one.

I'll mod one to work and we'll see how they hold up. If it's decent I'll be happy to mod them for anyone else.
I got one coming might have to look you up
 

srcarr52

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I ordered one.

I'll likely leave the 3mm collet as 3mm as I do have a bunch of that size tooling.
Then modify the solid mandrel (that I'd probably never have much use for anyway) by removing the threaded stub, boring/reaming it to .125" and slotting it.

Not a bad idea to modify the stub arbor, I'll never use it anyway.
 

srcarr52

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If you end up modding and selling them I'll take two! Not having to switch would be sweet, I don't use many different burrs and stones in my 90 anyways!

I have to CC RA's one setup with a 1/4" egg burr and one with a diamond point I like for finishing.
 

srcarr52

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If you plan to take your RA apart take note that there is some thread locker on the back piece that needs heat to it get loose, don't mess up yours as bad as I did learning this... just grab the torch first thing.

I reamed the connection out and ground a lead in ramp into the key drive to make it easier to connect.

IMG_1842.jpg IMG_1841.jpg

Now to make a holder for the collets!
 

Dolkitafreak

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If these things are even decent I don't think I would go back to CC! Priced high and I haven't had great luck with their customer service. I think I'm gonna order one of these, I think I have more 3mm burrs than 1/8" anyways. It would be nice if there collets were a true 3mm, gotta love the chinese manufacturing precision.
 
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Crocky28

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If these things are even decent I don't think I would go back to CC! Priced high and I haven't had great luck with their customer service. I think I'm gonna order one of these, I think I have more 3mm burrs than 1/8" anyways.
To be honest when I looked on CC website I couldn’t believe the price just for a hand piece. I think they’ve priced them like that only because no one else was selling them.
 

Crocky28

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If you plan to take your RA apart take note that there is some thread locker on the back piece that needs heat to it get loose, don't mess up yours as bad as I did learning this... just grab the torch first thing.

I reamed the connection out and ground a lead in ramp into the key drive to make it easier to connect.

View attachment 304457 View attachment 304456

Now to make a holder for the collets!
Looking good.
 

srcarr52

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To be honest when I looked on CC website I couldn’t believe the price just for a hand piece. I think they’ve priced them like that only because no one else was selling them.

I bet they make almost no money on them. The majority of the price is the NSK head, they only get $95 for an adapter.
 

wcorey

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Not a bad idea to modify the stub arbor, I'll never use it anyway.

And you can use the stub to chuck it up for doing the hole without the concern of mushing up the threads.
 

srcarr52

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And you can use the stub to chuck it up for doing the hole without the concern of mushing up the threads.

True, chuck on that and lop it off later.
 

srcarr52

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I chucked the threaded arbor in my little lathe and the runout was perfect so I went ahead and shot a 1/8" hole with a pointed carbide endmill. Then I chopped of the external threads and slotted it with a diamond cut wheel. It really wasn't that difficult.

IMG_1843.jpg IMG_1844.jpg

I hogged material out of a junk cylinder for about 5 mins and the head got slightly warm but nothing to be concerned with. I was being mean to it... letting it chatter and pushing it hard. So this handpiece seems promising. I did need to add some heat shrink for traction because it's a pretty small diameter which make your hand tired quickly trying to hold it. The head is slightly larger compared to the CC 182MC but not much, without the radius edges it just looks a lot bigger. The collet sticks out a little more but I doubt it will get in the way of anything. I still like my little handpiece for small cylinders but this can make for a nice hogging handpiece.

IMG_1846.jpg
 

Crocky28

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I chucked the threaded arbor in my little lathe and the runout was perfect so I went ahead and shot a 1/8" hole with a pointed carbide endmill. Then I chopped of the external threads and slotted it with a diamond cut wheel. It really wasn't that difficult.

View attachment 304458 View attachment 304459

I hogged material out of a junk cylinder for about 5 mins and the head got slightly warm but nothing to be concerned with. I was being mean to it... letting it chatter and pushing it hard. So this handpiece seems promising. I did need to add some heat shrink for traction because it's a pretty small diameter which make your hand tired quickly trying to hold it. The head is slightly larger compared to the CC 182MC but not much, without the radius edges it just looks a lot bigger. The collet sticks out a little more but I doubt it will get in the way of anything. I still like my little handpiece for small cylinders but this can make for a nice hogging handpiece.

View attachment 304460
Nice work.
 

Crocky28

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I got mine today and gave it the first inspection. The head seems strong and smaller than I expected but the 1/8" advertised collet is 3mm. So I'll have to punch it out 0.2mm somehow to get 1/8" burrs to work that we are all used to using. The collet is threaded to the taper (no flat area to clamp), so I'll have to make an arbor to hold it true in the lathe before sending an end mill through it for the correct size.

It is also a little too tight to fit on a true Foredom sheath. I measured it at 0.397 (10mm) where to fit the Foredom sheath it needs to be 0.404" for a tight fit. So I'll have to take it apart and ream the connection ID. At the same time I'll put an angle grind into the key drive so it seats easier as now it's straight cut so you have to line it up perfectly to get the key to seat.

So it looks like it needs $50 worth of modification to be useful. I also see they raised the price $20 after I bought one.

I'll mod one to work and we'll see how they hold up. If it's decent I'll be happy to mod them for anyone else.
So just got out to my workshop this morning to try it on my foredom and you’re right it doesn’t fit. Too tight. Looks like I’ll be taking mine apart too. I hadn’t even tried it on it before. I’m assuming it’s been made for the cheap clone foredom you can buy.
 
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